where do you have the tap for it?
Grainger giving me grief!!
I've been messing around with my grainger valve for almost two months now and I can't seem to get it to actually do anything! No matter how long or short the vacuum hoses are, no matther how tight or loose it's set it just sores past the targeted 10 psi and my car hits overboost cutout. I've even tryed reversing the ball and spring, and even removing the ball and spring just to see what would happen. It's like the damn grainger wasn't even there!
What am I doing wrong? I'm to the point where I'm ready to go back to computer controlled boost because I can't even go over half throttle without risking overboost and it's cramping the driving experience.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
-Walt
What am I doing wrong? I'm to the point where I'm ready to go back to computer controlled boost because I can't even go over half throttle without risking overboost and it's cramping the driving experience.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
-Walt
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Did you have an overboost problem before you put on the valve? If so, you might have a problem with your wastegate or you need a bigger opening for the wastegate, or it's just not setup right. If there is steady boost control when the computer controls things, well then I'd say the valve is junk and get a different one.
I have tried sourcing the valve from several different places with the same results. Right now it's sourced from the vacuum distribution manifold. As far as the computer controlled boost being steady, yes it was, but at only 5psi for some reason. I blamed it on vacuum problems and replaces the whole vacuum setup with a distribution block setup. (the original lines were old and leaking)
As far as the grainger being bad, I've even swapped out the innards from other graingers with the same results.
As far as the grainger being bad, I've even swapped out the innards from other graingers with the same results.
from your first post and more info from your last, source is from the block and you tried your valve with the ball and spring removed. I would check the wastegate can for a leak and that the arm is not binding.
Tim
Tim
The arm or flapper may well be frozen/stuck/rusted.
first, re-hook it all up bone stock one more time, if no overboosting occurs you can eliminate the wastegate can and swingvalve from being your problem. if the stock config works, and the GV config doesnt, then the boost signal to the can is being blocked by something related to your GV install.
does your GV have a bleed hole on the downstream side of the valve, and, is it unclogged? (there should be a .010" dia. bleed hole on the wastegate can side of the GV.)...if that bleed hole is way too large, then that also can cause a weak boost signal trying to reach the can, and overboosting could occur.
if all above checks out, remove the ball/spring from GV and blow thru it, it should be super-easy to do this. then, re-install the ball w/o the spring and shake the GV, ball should move freely inside the GV body.
if all above checks out reassemble the GV and thread the GV to its maximum length (use thread sealer on the threads) and put it in the system. test again and let us know. good luck.
does your GV have a bleed hole on the downstream side of the valve, and, is it unclogged? (there should be a .010" dia. bleed hole on the wastegate can side of the GV.)...if that bleed hole is way too large, then that also can cause a weak boost signal trying to reach the can, and overboosting could occur.
if all above checks out, remove the ball/spring from GV and blow thru it, it should be super-easy to do this. then, re-install the ball w/o the spring and shake the GV, ball should move freely inside the GV body.
if all above checks out reassemble the GV and thread the GV to its maximum length (use thread sealer on the threads) and put it in the system. test again and let us know. good luck.
I think your wastegate can is out of alignment or needs to be replaced.
Take the vacuum line that comes from your wastegate can, remove the grainger. Flip it around backwards, and configure it so you can put pressure in the line to your actuator but the pressure cannot get out.
note: You have to flip it around because otherwise the little hole would bleed pressure out screwing up this test.
Dont forget to plug off the open hole/vac line that is left at the vac manifold.
Put about 20lbs of pressure in the line to your actuator.
How? Take a portable air tank and fill it to 20, then go through your tub of hoses and fittings and make something that can blow through your grainger and into your actuator vac line.
Take the car for a leisurly drive, keeping an eye on the boost guage.
1-If the actuator is functional and needs a shim, this test should hold it tightly shut, causing the boost guage to skyrocket and hitting overboost at 14.7psi. (im assuming you have a stock setup in your car, so drive it gently and just see if u can get 10psi or so.)
2-If the actuator is garbage, and has a hole in it then you will get no boost like before.
Take the vacuum line that comes from your wastegate can, remove the grainger. Flip it around backwards, and configure it so you can put pressure in the line to your actuator but the pressure cannot get out.
note: You have to flip it around because otherwise the little hole would bleed pressure out screwing up this test.
Dont forget to plug off the open hole/vac line that is left at the vac manifold.
Put about 20lbs of pressure in the line to your actuator.
How? Take a portable air tank and fill it to 20, then go through your tub of hoses and fittings and make something that can blow through your grainger and into your actuator vac line.
Take the car for a leisurly drive, keeping an eye on the boost guage.
1-If the actuator is functional and needs a shim, this test should hold it tightly shut, causing the boost guage to skyrocket and hitting overboost at 14.7psi. (im assuming you have a stock setup in your car, so drive it gently and just see if u can get 10psi or so.)
2-If the actuator is garbage, and has a hole in it then you will get no boost like before.
This procedure will hold the wastgate WIDE OPEN, Dude. There will definitely be no boost! :bash:ToiboTonaZee said:I think your wastegate can is out of alignment or needs to be replaced.
Take the vacuum line that comes from your wastegate can, remove the grainger. Flip it around backwards, and configure it so you can put pressure in the line to your actuator but the pressure cannot get out.
note: You have to flip it around because otherwise the little hole would bleed pressure out screwing up this test.
Dont forget to plug off the open hole/vac line that is left at the vac manifold.
Put about 20lbs of pressure in the line to your actuator.
How? Take a portable air tank and fill it to 20, then go through your tub of hoses and fittings and make something that can blow through your grainger and into your actuator vac line.
Take the car for a leisurly drive, keeping an eye on the boost guage.
1-If the actuator is functional and needs a shim, this test should hold it tightly shut, like before.
do you have a bleed for the waste gate so it can close?
also try connecting the waste gate directley to the vac port to check and see if the waste gate is the problum or not....
also if your hitting cut out at 10psi then your gauge *might* be off a lil bit.
check all your vac lines make sure they are all connected proper and ho leaks in the systume
try a looser/tighter spring
buy one of my g-valves
grabe the waste gate arm with a pair of plyers and try moving it back and forth (this will see if it's to tight and if it's 'locked' some where it should break it free) <=== be extreamley cairful to not break anything wail doing this!!!!!!!!!
also try connecting the waste gate directley to the vac port to check and see if the waste gate is the problum or not....
also if your hitting cut out at 10psi then your gauge *might* be off a lil bit.
check all your vac lines make sure they are all connected proper and ho leaks in the systume
try a looser/tighter spring
buy one of my g-valves
grabe the waste gate arm with a pair of plyers and try moving it back and forth (this will see if it's to tight and if it's 'locked' some where it should break it free) <=== be extreamley cairful to not break anything wail doing this!!!!!!!!!
It's not hitting cutout at 10psi, it's hitting it at 15. Ten is just my target that it shoots past. Actually, as far as stock boost guages go it seems to be fairly acurate.
It seem as though I have some more tinkering to do. I shall tinker, and get back to all of you.
Thanks.
It seem as though I have some more tinkering to do. I shall tinker, and get back to all of you.
Thanks.
Yeah i dont know what i was drinking the night before i wrote that one.mock_glh said:This procedure will hold the wastgate WIDE OPEN, Dude. There will definitely be no boost! :bash:
Your right there will be no boost but that is still what we are trying to do here.
1- If you get 0 boost then your actuator is functional, it just needs a shim here or there.
2- If you hit overboost cutout then your wastegate actuator is seized.
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
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