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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys,

long time no see.
i am paul from the netherlands with a lebaron issue.
recently i swapped the wiringharness from my 3.0, but the starter won't crank. i had a mecanic looking and he hot wired the starter relay. after that the car started. later it would not start again.
it seems the yellow wire from the start relais makes no connection. i followed the wire inside the car to a green connector under the dash near the main connector and it's is not connected to anything.
does someone knows where that green connector had to connected to?

or does anyone knows if there is a difference between 1990 and 1991 wiringharnes?

thanks a lot
 

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Starter circuit wiring is the same for 90-93 AG/AJ body.

The yellow wire to the starter relay comes from the ignition switch.

There will only be power present on the YL wire at the stater relay when the key is in the "Start" position.

The ignition switch on a 90/91 Lebaron is located at the top of the steering column behind the key cylinder.

Your problem may be the same problem I just experienced and assumed was the ignition switch until I removed the switch assembly and saw the real problem.

The tabs on the backside of the key cylinder that engage with the ignition switch break and when you turn the key only the cylinder is moving, not the switch.

Remove the key cylinder/switch assembly from the car, remove the key cylinder from the switch and take a look.

There is a special procedure for removing/installing the key cylinder.

ELECTRICAL- Ignition Switch AG-AJ 1.jpg

ELECTRICAL- Ignition Switch AG-AJ 2.jpg

ELECTRICAL- Ignition Switch AG-AJ 3.jpg

download.jpg

https://www.autozone.com/interior/ignition-lock-cylinder/locksmart-ignition-lock-cylinder-lc14510/12478_0_18928

I will not be back home until Monday if you have any problems or questions.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Starter circuit wiring is the same for 90-93 AG/AJ body.

The yellow wire to the starter relay comes from the ignition switch.

There will only be power present on the YL wire at the stater relay when the key is in the "Start" position.

The ignition switch on a 90/91 Lebaron is located at the top of the steering column behind the key cylinder.

Your problem may be the same problem I just experienced and assumed was the ignition switch until I removed the switch assembly and saw the real problem.

The tabs on the backside of the key cylinder that engage with the ignition switch break and when you turn the key only the cylinder is moving, not the switch.

Remove the key cylinder/switch assembly from the car, remove the key cylinder from the switch and take a look.

There is a special procedure for removing/installing the key cylinder.

View attachment 255097

View attachment 255099

View attachment 255101

View attachment 255103

https://www.autozone.com/interior/ignition-lock-cylinder/locksmart-ignition-lock-cylinder-lc14510/12478_0_18928

I will not be back home until Monday if you have any problems or questions.
Hi NAJ,

thank you very much!!
i realize now you really help me a few years ago with alkind off issues.
i believe this is the solution, beceaus the ignitionswitch was loos today.

regards,

paul
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hi Naj,

i changed the ignitionlock, but the car won't crank.
i noticed that while turning the key to start the handbrakelight lights up.
is that normal or coould there be a defect switch, if you know offcourse.

greetings
 

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1)Was the old key cylinder broken?
2)Did you replace just the key cylinder or both the key cylinder and ignition switch?
3)Did you follow the instructions for properly installing the new key cylinder into the ignition switch?
If the key cylinder does not snap in completely/fully to the switch it will not turn the switch when you turn the key.
I had a really hard time getting mine to go in fully/completely so I had my Son do it, sometimes all you need is another set of eyes/hands so you do not get frustrated.

If/When you are absolutely certain that the switch is turning with the key cylinder to the correct positions post back and if it is still not cranking we will go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
well, i changed the lock and switch from a running car but still no cranking
is it possible there is a somehow a swich orso that prevend starting the car, like for an alarmsytem?
did i mancient that the handbrakelight on the dash is going on turning the key in runposition? in startposition it's not lightning.
 

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Be sure the switch is installed correctly, see the FSM pages in post #2 for proper switch installation.
 

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Just to clarify...
1)What year is the car, 90 or 91?
90 uses Fusible Links, 91 uses a PDC.

Now,lets find out whats missing...

At the starter relay check for power and ground.

1)Red (RD) Constant Battery Power (Black on 90)
2)Yellow (YL) Switched Ignition Power Power will only be present with the key in the "start" position.
3)Brown/Light Blue (BN/LB) Ground Bolted to the Transaxle on a Manual Trans, through the Neutral Safety Switch On an Auto Trans.
4)Brown (BN) Power Output to the Starter Power will only be present with the key in the "start" position providing all other power/ground circuits are correct.

5)Using a 12 volt test light or digital voltmeter verify 12 volts are present on the RD and YL wires.
6)Using an Ohmmeter verify continuity to ground on the BN/LB wire
7)If both 6 and 7 check OK then verify power out on the BN wire with the key in the "start" position.

Whats missing?
1)Power on RD Wire?
2)Power on YL Wire?
3)Continuity to ground on the BN/LB wire?
4)Power output on the BN wire? (assuming 1,2,3 are all OK)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
the car is from june 1990, the wiringharness is from juni 1991, the engine is from 1993.
i checked for inline fuses, where not present, except one. checked and is oke.
there is continously power on the starter relay;s black wire ('91 wiringharness??)
there is 12volt on the pink wire off the ignition switch. key in acc or start position
there is NO power on red or yellow wiring. key in acc or start position.
ground is oke.

question:
what is PDC in the harness?
should i replace the old wiring again and start from there?
 

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You need to check for power at the YL wire with the key in the START position NOT THE "ON" position.
If you do not have power on the YL wire at the starter relay with the key in the "Start" position then you need to check directly at the ignition switch connector.

If you have constant battery power on the BK wire at the starter relay you do not have an issue with Fuses or Fusible Links.

Fusible Links have been used for years, they are all located in the wiring harness coming off the battery + cable.
1990 still used Fusible Links which are a wire placed in the harness and is designed to melt should amperage increase beyond its amperage rating thus protecting the circuit.
The insulation on a fusible link is fireproof so the wire inside melts protecting the circuit with no chance of a fire.

In 1991 Chrysler went to a PDC (Power Distribution Center) on Daytona and LeBaron which replaced all of the Fusible Links with actual Fuses.

I looked at the 1990 Wiring Diagrams Manual and the YL wire does run through a connector before heading out underhood, the connector color is not shown.
It appears to be an 8 pin connector located on a "Pencil Brace at the Left Lower Steering Column.

Besides the factory wiring posted below I am sending you other wiring through PM.

Explaining Fusible Links
Electrical Issues - MiniMopar Resources

1990 AJ 3.0L FSM Ignition Switch/Starter Relay Wiring
IMG_0001_NEW.jpg

IMG_NEW.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #12
i replaced the ignition connector.
i have constantly power on the red and pink wire, both in on or off position
 

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i replaced the ignition connector.
i have constantly power on the red and pink wire, both in on or off position
And that is correct since both the RD and PK wires are constant battery power.

You need to check for power on the YL wire with the key in the "Start" position.
There are 4 key positions...

Key Positions
images.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #14
just tested it.
no power on yl wire in start position.

does the yl wire receiver power from the red wire in startposition?
beceause i swapped the complete ignition and lock from a running car
 

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I am assuming you tested the YL wire for power out at the ignition switch.

The ignition switch gets its power from the Red and Pink wires you already tested that were OK.
The YL wire is a power output to the starter relay when you turn the key all the way to the "Start" position.
If you have constant battery power in as you stated but no power is present on the YL wire at the Ignition Switch Connector with the key in the Start position then you have either a faulty switch, key cylinder issue or a connection problem between the switch connector and switch(a terminal could be spread/pushed out/cracked/broken)

Looking at the Ignition Switch Connector in the illustration below...
Cavity #1 YL - Power Out With the Key In The Start Position Only
Cavity #2 DB - Power Out With the Key In The On/Run Position
Cavity #4 PK - Power In From The Battery, Power Will Always Be Present With The Key On Or Off.
Cavity #7 RD - Power In From The Battery, Power Will Always Be Present With The Key On Or Off

ELECTRICAL- Ignition Switch AG-AJ 3.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
okay, but i swapped complete ignitionswitch with keycilinder and connector.

well, i found something this evening.
the red wire lighted up with a simple meter to see if there is a connection
now i messured how much voltage the red provide and that was only 7 volt.
i discover a bad connection under the dash and when i pulled the red wire there something happend in the engine compartment.
when i put the key in on position i hear all kinds of sound from relais and ticking near the startmotor, etc.
But .... there is 12 volt on the YL wire in START position.


at least we found something.
a'm getting hopefull again.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
found a issue on the red wire under the dash. bad connection
i repaired it and now there's 12 volt on the red and pink in OFF position.
also .... 12 volt on the YL wire in START postition. Yeahhhh.
but still no crank.

i do here al kinds of noices at the engine in ON position
relays ticking and a noice from under the engine near the startermotor.

any idea?
 

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OK...
Now we know we have all of the proper power in and out at the Ignition Switch so we will move to the Starter Relay.

There are 4 wires at the Starter Relay, Two Power Feeds In, a Ground and a Power Output to the Starter.

Start with #1, if it tests OK move to #2 and so on, if a problem is found and the cause cannot be located or you require more assistance, Post Back.

1)Red Wire - Constant (key on or off) 12 Volts from the Battery
(Either through a Fusible Link (90) or Fuse #66 in the PDC (91/92)

2)Yellow Wire - Switched Ignition Voltage - 12 Volts with the Key in the Start Position.
(If no power is present disconnect the relay connector and ignition switch connector and check continuity on the YL wire between the relay and switch, if there is no continuity the circuit is open)

3)Brown/Light Blue - Ground - Disconnect the relay connector and check for continuity to ground on the BN/LB wire.
There should be less than 5 ohms.
The ground wire is bolted to the transaxle on a manual trans.
On an Auto Trans the ground wire runs through the Neutral Safety Switch so there will only be continuity to ground in Park/Neutral.

4)Brown Wire - Output to the Starter - 12 volts to starter with the key in the Start position.
If tests 1, 2, 3 test OK and there is no power out on the BN wire with the key in the Start position, replace the starter relay.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
i see differtent colors on the start/run relay.

2 yellow
1 black
1 brown
1 brown/yellow
'
old harness start/run connector colors. Picture 1
new harness start/run connector colors. Picture 2

does that matter?
 

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i see differtent colors on the start/run relay.

2 yellow
1 black
1 brown
1 brown/yellow
'
old harness start/run connector colors. Picture 1
new harness start/run connector colors. Picture 2

does that matter?
No pics or link to pics.
To upload pics...
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3)A new window will open, expand the window, click on "Choose File".
4)Find the pic/image on your computer and click on the file then click "open" at the bottom of the box.
5)Repeat this until you have uploaded all of the pics/images.
6)On the right side of the screen click "upload".
7)When the images have uploaded they will appear in a new box titled "current attachments.
8)Go to the post and click on the "paper clip" icon again, the uploaded images will appear in the window and click either "insert all" or the one you want to post all or some of your pics/images where you would like them.

There are two yellow wires in the same cavity so they both receive power from the ignition switch when in the "Start" position.
1990
YL- Switched Ignition Voltage from the ignition switch in the "Start" position only.
BK- Constant 12 volts from the battery thru a fusible link
BN/LB -Ground
BN - Output to starter, power will only be present with the key in the "Start" position.

1991
YL - Switched Ignition Voltage from the ignition switch in the "Start" position only.
RD - Constant 12 volts from the battery thru Fuse #66 in the PDC.
BN/LB - Ground
(Wiring diagrams are not always correct, the factory may make a change during production and it will not show in the manual because the manuals are published first, that is why they send out corrections to the FSM's to all dealers when mistakes are found, you may very well have a BN wire with a YL tracer instead of a BN wire with a LB tracer. Use your digital multimeter to determine if this is power or ground but it should be the ground)
BN - Output to starter, power will only be present with the key in the "Start" position.

I know you may be feeling frustrated because this is taking so long, online diagnostics are difficult at best and you are learning as you go.
If the car were in front of me this whole process would have taken less than a 1/2 hour to determine what is missing power/ground wise.

I am doing the best I can to describe things to you so be patient and hang in there.
 
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