Head bolts: what would you do?

404 Views 9 Replies 7 Participants Last post by 5150, Jun 3, 2005

mpbiv

Discussion Starter · Jun 3, 2005

I rebuilt a 2.2L motor and primed the oil pump after I put the engine in the car. I found out after priming the oil pump that there is a nasty oil leak coming from the turbo oil feed line at the turbo. I should have thought ahead and primed the pump when the engine was on the stand.

The lines are brand new braided stainless steel to go with a freshly rebuilt Garrett T3. Since the lines are new I am thinking the oil feed just needs to be tightened. So to do so I have to take the head off the motor because we all know it is near impossible to get back there with a wrench.

So here is the question. The headgasket is a brand new MP 006 and it also has brand new MP head bolts. I figure I should replace the head gasket since it has been crushed/compressed. But should I even bother ordering new head bolts? If so, why? I'd prefer not to. Anyone been a similar situation?

Keep in mind both the head gasket and head bolts are brand new and the motor has never been run.

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RPMurph

· #2 · Jun 3, 2005

if they are brand new bolts they should be ok...i think you can use them 2 or 3 times......just visually inspect them when ya pull them out if they arent warped/streched i would use em again

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Stevien1

· #3 · Jun 3, 2005

Before pulling the head, try reaching over the top of the K-frame from underneath. Unless it's an L-body, you should be able to get to the oil feed on the turbo. If you can't, try removing the front mount and rotating the engine/trans forward with a prybar or even a ratcheting cargo tiedown.

If you need more working room around the turbo, remove the wastegate actuator and coolant return line. Give it a shot, seems kind of silly to pull the cyl head for a loose oil feed line.

-Chuck James

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mpbiv

Discussion Starter · #4 · Jun 3, 2005

Stevien1 said:
Before pulling the head, try reaching over the top of the K-frame from underneath. Unless it's an L-body, you should be able to get to the oil feed on the turbo. If you can't, try removing the front mount and rotating the engine/trans forward with a prybar or even a ratcheting cargo tiedown.

If you need more working room around the turbo, remove the wastegate actuator and coolant return line. Give it a shot, seems kind of silly to pull the cyl head for a loose oil feed line.

-Chuck James

You're right it is silly. But prior to posting this I already tried getting to it from underneath the car. Even removed the wastegate.

I think part of the reason I cannot get it is because the new lines are much bigger than stock (see picture)

My wrench hits the firewall even though it is not an L-body. I wasn't able to get the coolant line off at the turbo when I tried. :bash:

Thanks for the suggestion none the less :thumb:

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looneytuner

· #5 · Jun 3, 2005

Don't use teflon tape. Use the liquid teflon. I pulled some lines pefore starting engine and the tape was just shoved out of threads.. That may be your problem.

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mo' parts

· #6 · Jun 3, 2005

looneytuner said:
Don't use teflon tape. Use the liquid teflon. I pulled some lines pefore starting engine and the tape was just shoved out of threads.. That may be your problem.

^ very good point.

the bolts and gasket should be fine to re-use, i have done it before, since they havent had any heat or press. on them. cant remember the reason why i had to dis-assemble, but it was the same situation. new gasket/bolts.

--warning-- do not try this at home---(disclaimer..done)
just for the record, i have re-used a used h. gasket and bolts for a short period of time also, the motor was temporary and i knew it wouldnt be in there long. ***though this isnt rcommended, by any means**** just means it will work as a get-me by. i just gave the bolts an extra few ft. lbs. put a couple thosand miles on it that way.
good luck

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mpbiv

Discussion Starter · #7 · Jun 3, 2005

looneytuner said:
Don't use teflon tape. Use the liquid teflon. I pulled some lines pefore starting engine and the tape was just shoved out of threads.. That may be your problem.

Yeah I have had that happen before, but in the past it was always because the tape was wrapped around the threads in the wrong direction. For right hand threading there is only one direction the teflon can be wrapped around, or it will come off the threads when tightened

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lametec

· #8 · Jun 3, 2005

adam89shlbydayt said:
the bolts and gasket should be fine to re-use, i have done it before, since they havent had any heat or press. on them.

I agree. I too have done it, and there were no ill effects.

adam89shlbydayt said:
just for the record, i have re-used a used h. gasket and bolts

I've done this too. I sprayed some copper sealer on the gasket just in case, though. Car still runs like a champ several 1000 miles later. Boosts to 12 psi on regular gas even. This is on my winter beater.

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5150

· #9 · Jun 3, 2005

Teflon tape is for turd herders not mechanics. Last summer at service school, the guys from Permatex used liquid teflon on pipe threads in a hydraulic set-up. They painted the threads, assembled them finger tight and pumped 600 psi into the system with NO LEAKS. We came back after 2 hours and the gauge was still holding at 600 psi.

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5150

· #10 · Jun 3, 2005

P.S. I'd try using a crow's foot before I pulled the head. But that's just me...

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