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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey. My 87 2.2 T1 has been rebuilt within the last 300 miles and it seems to be running REALLY hot.

The heat blows nice and hot - but the head is getting hot. The head was cleaned and prepped as it should be and the engine is completely rebuilt.

Radiator is not in perfect condition but it works. The car is running between 1/2 and 3/4 on my digital gauge and one time I got out and the valve cover was almost "smoking" - I couldn't put my hand on it.

I parked the car tonight after about a 10~15 minute easy drive and after about 2 and a half hours the valve cover is still too hot for me to put my hand on - it's cool out so I'd think it would have cooled by now.

It seems as though the coolant is bypassing the head or the head isn't getting nearly enough flow - If I park the car after driving it (it stays at 1/2) and turn the engine off but key on so I can read the temp gauge it will cimb up to 3/4 and kick the fan on but it doesn't go down (no coolant circulating) if I kick the engine on it will drop from 3/4 down to 1/2 in fairly short order so I'm guessing the thermostat is opening.

I have a 1/16" hole in the thermostat to bleed air and I'm checking coolant level almost daily.

Anyhow the car blows good heat inside - dash gauge is reading a bit high but not "overheating" but physically putting my hand on the valvecover, intake manifold, even the A/C bracket seems as though the engine is running REALLY hot.

Also tonight after it had sat the 2.5 hours I tried to start it up - and the starter ran 5~6 seconds and it didn't seem to want to fire up. I gave up to let the starter cool and gave it another 5~6 seconds and gave it a tad bit of gas and finally it kicked on - would this be a side-effect of running too hot or another problem I should look into? I set the timing to 12degrees about a week and a half ago - should I check timing again?

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It has no air in it - pulled the plug in the waterbox and bled all air.

I even did a complete coolant flush and vacuum-evacuated the system - filled it with water and drained it and filled and drianed 2x then filled with 50/50 and made sure to get ALL of the air out.

I MAY just be over-reacting but I didn't think the valvecover should get so hot that touching it for a split second would burn quite a bit.

Even the HOSE CLAMP on the THROTTLE BODY is so hot I can't really touch it after driving.

Is this normal for a 2.2 Turbo motor that's been run? My 89 2.5 T1 never did this that I can remember - but maybe it did and I just didn't nitpick because it hadn't had any major work done.

Mike
 

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I'm having the exact same problem with my shelbyz that was just rebuilt. It's not normal because my other daytona(not rebuilt) does not do that...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Something has to have been done incorrectly to cause this problem - I'm not entirely sure that coolant isn't just completely bypassing the head alltogether and I don't know how to check.

So if somebody anybody could give me/us some hints or things to try I would GREATLY appreciate it.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #7
What do you mean what is it running at?

What temperature? According to the dash and the fan schedule it's staying between 195 and 212 - but from the immense amount of heat that every piece and part under the hood even if it's just the engine bay itself and the fact that I opened the hood the other day and the valve cover was smoking - and the car SMELLS HOT.... I'd say that's innacurate...

I need to find out why it's so hot. I'm hoping there's no permanent damage to the head but I figure there probably is - it is so loud and clackety - used to be quiet with the exception of the normal valve noise.

If it is actually overheating - do I just risk damaging the head and killing the headgasket or do I risk trashing the entire engine?

Mike
 

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Mike, let's start with some basic stuff and make sure it is up to par. Is your timing set to factory specs. 12 +/- 2. Is your cam timing correct. Correct spark plugs in the car. Your knock sensor wire is connected and working (I have seen a broken wire to the knock sensor make the turbo red hot). After this is looked at then.
Open the radiator cap and start the car cold. Do you see any bubbles from a possible head gasket not sealing. Is the therm. working properly? You might want to change it if it isn't a 180 deg. If you are not running a condensor in front of the car feel the top to bottom of the radiator to make sure you feel heat as the car is warming up. If you feel it's hot in spots but not others your radiator is partially clogged. If you have the condensor remove the fan and do the backside, just make sure the temp doesn't get too hot as your checking.
There are other things but let's make sure these are ok first. Let us know what you find.
 

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Get ahold of a laser thermometer, like a Raytek. Then you'll be able to avoid wasting time for something that is probably normal. Ever notice the top of the blowthrough intake manifolds look like a George Foreman grill? They sure get hot enough to cook something!

-Chuck James
 

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Check it with a good thermometer. You said the heater works well, but a plugged/restricted heater core could keep the thermostat from working correctly.

Yes, valve cover will be too hot to touch after running it, so will the rest of the engine.

Get a real gauge on it to make sure the sender isn't just goofing up. 195* will be way to hot to touch, as most people can't handle things much over 140* for more than a few seconds.
 

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Yeah, I don't see anything unusual here. You can get cheap infrared thermometers for like 20 bucks. If you do find that the head temps are out of whack, consider lubrication. When the core tube in the Fram filter on my old Shadow imploded, it sent cardboard through the system. It plugged the restrictor in the line to the head and the head got so hot from friction that it melted the plastic vacuum lines, harnesses, and CTS. The valve train was really loud, so the it should it obvious.
 

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Russ, you really did have motivation for that oil filter study, didn't you? I had no idea filters could come apart like that.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ok... Well here's the update.

I was crusing on the interstate to get home going about 80mph and the EGT was reading right at about 1400.

I finally get home after about 30 minutes - when I was going slower I noticed that something didn't sound right - the engine has an extra clack or loud noise associated with it - almost sounds like a diesel engine kinda sorta... Hard to explain.

Popped the hood and best guess is that it's coming from the head - sounds like one of the valves is being VERY noisy - and I'm not entirely sure why... It's not rods or pistons - 1st they're brand new and 2nd the sound isn't that deep.

Any thoughts?

Mike
 

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I had a friend have the same thing happen. It turns out one of his original valve springs broke. Over time they fatigue and just break. It was just the bottom coil or 2 that broke, so it'll be a little difficult to spot.
 

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Jckrieger said:
Russ, you really did have motivation for that oil filter study, didn't you? I had no idea filters could come apart like that.
Neither did I. :p
 

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89DodgeSpirit said:
Ok... Well here's the update.

I was crusing on the interstate to get home going about 80mph and the EGT was reading right at about 1400.

I finally get home after about 30 minutes - when I was going slower I noticed that something didn't sound right - the engine has an extra clack or loud noise associated with it - almost sounds like a diesel engine kinda sorta... Hard to explain.

Popped the hood and best guess is that it's coming from the head - sounds like one of the valves is being VERY noisy - and I'm not entirely sure why... It's not rods or pistons - 1st they're brand new and 2nd the sound isn't that deep.

Any thoughts?

Mike
Did it keep doing it after letting the car cool down? If so, pull the VC and see what's what.
 

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Mike: I went out today and ran my car for a bit, pinky, although its losing coolant, my head temp with the car centered on the temp gauge was about 200, this is probably the normal temp , as pinky usully runs flawless, and was also a rebuild before i got it, from what i see.

-FyRE-
 

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Also new note: My head is NOT smoking, but i do get puffs of white sometimes from exh/intake area after driving for a little bit, which is related to heat expansion, the car has always done this.

-FyRE-
 

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Discussion Starter #20
50/50 mix - used scanner coolant is staying between 195~212.

Head doesn't sound AS clackety today - I'm going to be switching to mobil1 in about 250 miles so we will see if that helps things...

Mike
 
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