[impuresoul2k3]

I have a problem with my headlights, they refuse to come up, so I checked the headlight control module in the dash and when I pull the switch to turn on the lights I hear the relays click then a second or two later click again, does this mean the headlight module is working and the problem is elsewhere or should I take it apart and resolder it, they did come on at one time when I had the car. I got it November, its been sitting in my garage ever since waiting an engine rebuild, now I got it done so I want to drive it.

 

[NAJ]

Check and see if there is power getting to the motors and that the ground is ok.
Usually if the module is the problem the lights will come on but the doors will not pop up.

 

[GLHNSLHT2]

Mine does this sometimes. The quick and easy fix is to crank them up by hand where they'll usually stay for the day. Then the next morning I come out and turn on the headlights and you'll see the headlights move just a bit. If you turn them off they go down and start working again for another couple months to a year. They usually stop working when the car sits in the hot sun all day.

 

[charger R/T]

Like NAJ wrote put a volt meter on the motor and turn the lights on if the meter shows its getting power its a motor issue if not you need to find what is missing the power or the ground. but with what ussually happens its usually the module. Do you know where to find the links for the repair threads?
Tim

 

[impuresoul2k3]

Yeah and I pulled the module out, but I can hear/feel the relays clicking so I thought the module was fine. When the weather gets a little nicer I'll go probe wires

 

[charger R/T]

depending on what solder joints are bad the relay may still click. It would be more likley the solder joints the power load goes through are more critical for the lights to work then the pull in joints on the relay. The click will only tell you 2 of the 4 joints are working on each relay. There would also be more heat on the 2 for the load then the pull in part of the relay.
here are the links if you haven't found them
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f60/98849-headlight-module-repair-part-1-illustrated.html
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f60/98850-headlight-module-repair-part-2-illustrated.html
Tim

 

[impuresoul2k3]

Alright I'll tear it apart tomorrow, I spent a good 5 mins cracking it trying to get it to come out the front before I realized it had to go out the top Oh well live and learn. Thanks for the links btw

 

[Low Impedance]

as of tonight when i click the switch back to the headlights position (all other functions work) the motors do not go up and the lamps do not turn on but i hear the clicking sound...

is it just the switch?

 

[Reaper1]

OK...the '87/'88 headlight motors are not the same as the '89-'91(and those have differences as well IIRC). At any rate, the early ones actually have a ground switch in them so the headlights don't actually turn on until they get almost all the way up. So, if you pull the switch ot the headlight position, if th elights don't go up on their own, they will still be off until you crank them up by hand(assuming the gorund switch works propperly in the headlight motor. You can bypass the ground switch by just running the ground off the headlight plug to a good chassis ground.

Did you do the repair proceedure to the modual? If not, I highly suggest that. It is mroe than likely the culprit of your issue as 99% of them are. Very few headlight issues(especially concerning the motors working part) have to do with another component.

Let us know what happens....

 

[impuresoul2k3]

Alright, I'll fix it today after school

 

[impuresoul2k3]

Well, you guys were right, I found one that was cracked all the way around so I just flowed some solder onto all those joints listed in the repair guide, plugged that sucker in, and with excitement found that my lights retracted and now go up and down on command

 

[Reaper1]

SWEET!! Good to hear! :thumb:

 

[manifoldsrme]

How do I get the module out? My headlights are stuck up.

 

[Reaper1]

You have to take the plastic top trim off the dash(it just pops up and out, but be careful as 21 year old, sun baked plastic like to break). There are 2 screws that hold it in. Take those out, and lift it up. You then have to unplug the harness out of the unit. Be warned that a lot of times over the years the heat has broken the potting material in the unit down and it starts to drip out and all over the place back there. It is a nasty, sticky, digusting mess that is a HUGE PITA to clean up. I'd suggest wearing gloves.

Follow the intructions in this thread from there. Good luck!! :thumb:

 

[manifoldsrme]

Cool, thanks! I just bought this car and it has been one problem after another after another after another after............ :bang head

 

[manifoldsrme]

Alright guys. I bought a $2 POS soldering iron and some solder that was just as cheap and went to soldering. It came out HORRIBLE. I couldnt get the solder to flow worth a damn, only got the connections about half covered with solder, it was frustrating, and it was one of the most half assed jobs I have ever done. It looked so bad I was just going to throw the module away because I was sure I had destroyed it. I went out and plugged it in just for the hell of it AND IT WORKED! My headlights now go up and down. I tried them about 30 times just to be sure it wasnt a fluke! BIG THANKS GUYS! I just sat in the car and laughed for about 2 minutes as they went and down, up and down! AMAZING!:woot woot:

 

[charger R/T]

don't throw out the soldering iron you'll need it when the dash acts up.
Tim

 

[Reaper1]

Yeah, keep the iron around. If the job went as bad as you say you *may* need to do it again in the future.

IF that happens, get some soldering flux. That should help out a bunch to get the solder to flow well.

Congrats on success for sure though! :thumb:

 

[impuresoul2k3]

isn't solder flux cored anyway?

 

[Reaper1]

I think you are reffering to rosin core. It helps, but flux is MUCH better....trust me!