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In the above image you can see how evident the fracturing is at the points circled in red. The blue ones are getting bad, and the green ones will follow. The red points have an air gap that allows for oxidation, and even though they are physically still in contact, they cause an intermittent problem.

The ABS plastic housing that contains the board is guaranteed to have degraded and become brittle. Once you start to remove it you will see this. It will crumble easily, but will also have to be tore off due to the insulating compound sticking to it.
You can easily just strip it off, solder all the joints, wrap it in electrical tape and just let it hang inplace once you've reinstalled it.
Over time, as I have observed that in every case I have dealt with, the pins on the relays were the problem, I have developed my own procedure that allows me to save the housing, for the most part, and retain the mounting tabs. It is illustrated in the following.

First, using a utility knife, I score a rectangle that will be the area I wish to remove. Scoring it this way will help keep a decent edge to the opening I will create. I score it as deep as I can without breaking through the housing. I don't wish to go through and take the chance of cutting through one of the traces on the PCB. I then scrore it diagonally. This allows me to push down in the middle of the scores and crack the section inside the rectangle.



Once I have an opening I use needle nose pliers to remove the rest of the plastic.



You will have to remove the insulating compound. Get this area as clean as you can, and wash your hands after handling this stuff.



Once you've got it as clean as you can get it, reflow the solder joints with rosin core solder. Don't use acid core because it will only cause corrosion. A fan lightly blowing across your work is advised, because you don't want to breath any fumes from the insulating compound that may be left.
Now some at this point may say that they aren't any good at electronics, and don't think they can do this. With a $5 soldering iron, a $1 roll of solder, and twenty minutes of research on the web about how to properly solder, any of you could do it. If not, then these old cars are going to be way too much for you. :D



After I'm done, I tape over the opening (here I've done it with black duct tape), and it is ready to install like it originally was.

You could also remove all the plastic and compound from this side. Since all the components are soldered from this one side, you could reflow every point on the board. I would leave a border of 1/4" - 3/8" remaining to keep some structure around the mounting tabs as insurance from them breaking off though.

I don't know what you have to spend for these modules at your local yards, but the ones here let me snag them for $5. I keep a repaired one with me most of the time. I have sold a bunch of them. On more than a few occasions I have spotted someone with their lights up, and sold them a module on the spot for $40. One lady I even installed it for her in the grocery store parking lot, and she forced an extra $10 on me. With the 87 - 88 units it is so easy to pop the dash cover and show them where it goes. So you can see where it can earn you some extra cash. Module for $5, and the repair takes less than 20 minutes. You might be able to get more than $40 for it, but I feel pretty comfortable with that price. I'm profiting, but I'm not gouging them either. Another plus... "Hey, you're into these cars and I was thinking about selling this one, so I figured I'd give you a call..."

Later I'll try to get a picture of the module mounted in its location to add to the beginning of this.
Also, maybe I'll go find the other style modules and add their repairs. Maybe someone else with them can provide that info. I don't particularly care for the 90+ interiors, so it's unlikely that I'll have one in my posession anytime soon.

If the mods believe that this was explained in a clear manner they could possibly sticky it. Might save some trouble when the inevitable question arises again and someone doesn't understand the search function.
If anyone feels I should add something I missed, or would like to merge their info into it, just let me know. Someone please clarify the years that Le Barons used this module, If you will.
 
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Thanks for putting that up! I've been wanting to do it for years! I can honsetly say that I've never had an issue getting the modual apart, but I suppose it is bound to happen at some point. Good job!
 

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where is the module on a 90 Daytona and what does it look like
My lights say up as well..........its always bugged me.
 

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I believe its located near the steering column. I also believe the case is a bit differant in shape but the issue is the same.
Tim
 

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On the left side of the steering column, behind the fuse box.

The internals are also different for the 1990 HCM than the older versions. Yes, the problem is the same. I've also found a few to have bad solder joints at the terminal connections on the PCB too. You might want to check those as well.
 

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printed circuit board
 

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90 Daytona Shelby, 89 Spirit ES, 96 Jeep XJ
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Sorry to bring this back from the dead so to speak, but I was wondering if anyone got around to doing a write-up for the 90+ modules? I'm not sure I even pulled the correct module out. It's a small box about the size of an Altoids mints tin. It was just behind the fuse box under the dash and has a red 6-wire connector. Sound like the right one?
 

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No, the box should be larger than that. It is black and is about 4x4x2 IIRC. It has the connector all the way at the top(they look exactly like the old style HCM plug) with a small hole to one side where you can see the potting material. It is located along side the steering column just in front of the bulkhead connector. You have to release a clip at the top to pull it off its mount. The mount is attatched to the round metal bar under the dash that diagonals from the side of the footwell to the firewall.

I wish I could get a picture for you, but I'm nowhere near my cars to do it...sorry.
 

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if the module is in the same location (center of dash) yes. If it one where its been moved over by the steering column yes and no. No in that the module is differant but yes in it has the same issues and the repair is the same just differant board to locate the relays.
Tim
 

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This write-up IS for an '89 Dodge Daytona (or LeBaron). The modules were the same for those 2 cars from '87 to '89. In '90 they changed the interior and the control module was in the list of changes (although not to a better system apparently :rolleyes:).

Does anyone know if the 90+ LeBaron module is the same as the Daytona one or did they deviate that year? I know on the later LeBarons the body computer has something to do with the headlight door control. I've never bothered to check.

Incidentally, I ended up installing a rocker switch and I just raise and lower my headlights manually now. I'll get around to fixing the control module eventually, but the manual system works just fine.
 

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The '90 HCM's *should* be the same between G&J body cars IIRC.

In '91 they both went to BCM control and there are two relays under the hood in the PDC that are part of the headlight motor circuts...
 

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Ah, good to know. Thanks. :thumb:

I would like to fix it properly one of these days.
 

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I did this with my 90 Daytona. When I took the HCM out the solder joints didnt look bad at all, but I resoldered them anyway and now it works fine. Thanks for the helpful thread!!
 

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Thanks to all of you guys.I finally got around to digging into the HCM on my 90' VNT.I located the unit,it took about 5 minutes of up-side-down work to get it out.I split the plastic case right down the middle going long-ways with a stanley knife (razor-blade) all the way around.I was able to pry the case apart without really damaging anything.I was also able to kind of slice around the molded rubber protectant and peel it off in one sheet on the solder side only.I lost a few small chunks but not much.
At first glance,the only solder-joint that was noticably bad was one of the pins for the plug-in connector.The closer I looked there where a few of the solder-joints for the (3) relay's that looked like they had very small cracks.All in all I re-soldered about (6) places that looked suspect.
I plugged it back in and guess what.....................YE-HAAAA !!!:thumb::thumb:
It worked just like a new headlight flipper !!!
And by the way,That box is like 3W x 4L x 2 Deep.
Thanks again.
 

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87 - 90 daytona maybe 91 depending on the style dash you have



what is the part number on the ones with headlight delay
vs. just up or down.
 
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