Turbo Dodge Forums banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
178 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My first post on this great forum and looking for some advice. I have a tight and perfect condition 89 lebaron coupe "J" body rare with a 2.5 Turbo. Low mileage, many mods, but mainly using FM technology with an upgrade Enforcer 2 turbo, T II Shelby Daytona side mount intercooler, running 18 -19 psi boost with modified S60 ECU and 3bar MP. Many other mods, but I want to install a higher efficiency intercooler, but not at the expense of pulling the air conditioner and all the issues with a FMIC plumbing and hassel. I want to keep my 2 1/4 piping as short and tight as possible to the 52 mm TB while maximizing my air flow, cooling and minimum pressure drop. I would like to see if anyone has had luck finding a high performance side mount intercooler with an attached fan and shroud. I would think this would help the ambient air flow through the IC much better than the current non-existent ram air through the AC condenser coil. My battery was relocated to the trunk so I have some room next to my radiator. From a core size, my measurements show that I could install an 18X8X4 inch IC in this location. This would be simple, and they say the fan motor switch can be tied to the boost or rad fan.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
178 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Polygon, I see you have an 89 Baron. Do you have a FMIC that you could lend help in the optimum plumbing route keeping the AC. If you look at the size of IC I have room for as an SM, it isn't much different than what I have room for as a FM. So if I can get a custom vertical SM with the inlet angled at a 45 up in the middle and the outlet straight 90 to the TB, then the only performance difference would be the ambient air cooling. Then I would have to rely on a high CF fan and shroud on the IC face to supply the cooling through the bumper facia. It would make sense from the plumbing hassle with a FM and it would also keep the piping much shorter and tighter turns. The web site for Bell Intercoolers look like you can customize an IC size that fits with the proper trunk ends and connection angles to match your piping needs? Of all the IC mods in this forum, I don't see this idea which may be a reason.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,422 Posts
Well, I'll be relocating the battery as well. However, I'm going to make an air trap for the filter. I'm then going to have a pipe go from there to the inlet. For the IC I am going to get the one I showed you since you can run the pipes almost the same as stock, just slightly longer with 90° bends. You'd be able to keep the AC and minimal plumbing. I'm going to have the have an exhaust shop fab it up since I don't have the tools. I'm going to use mandrel bent pipe @ 2.5" powder coated black.

I wouldn't know too much about an SMIC as I haven't researched them much. I liked this one for it's size and front airflow will keep the intake charge cooler. Plus, like you, I want minimal piping and this keeps it at the stock locations (almost).

I'm glad to help, especially a fellow j-body owner.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
178 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
The battery relocation really helped. I put in the high performance completely enclosed battery in the trunk which was $175 just for the battery, but it is worth it. I also moved the cruise solenoid so my measuements show I have room for an 18X10X4. I called Bell IC, and they said to just send the IC to them with the maximum core dimension fit possible, and they would fabricate a SM with the same inlet, outlet and brakets to match the current piping. It would have a much higher flow capability, 700 CFM, low PSI drop and offer faster spool up with no fabrication changes. The only thing they recommended was not to use an IC shroud fan, as it becomes restrictive to the ram air flow even thought it's through the AC coil. They recommend to construct an air diverter shield toward the IC to direct more ram air flow to it. I think I will also call FWD in your link and see what they have similar to what your talking about with a FMIC that requires little piping modification. Finally saw your wrecked 89 Baron GTC. Man what a shame. Mine is the exact same color and style but the Highland package. Gray fabric interior, but the red paint is original and looks new because the car was bought new by a now 86 year old lady that kept it in a garage for 18 years with only 45,000 miles. All my mods to date have been with Forward Motion and I've been very happy. They know what they're doing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,422 Posts
Yeah, already have the battery and relocation kit. I just need to wait until I get all my interior pieces so I can strip the interior and run the positive line. Yeah, the only way I would use a SM is if it were water to air or had a duct like you posted. I know that FWDP doesn't have the piping, just the intercooler. You'll have to fabricate your own to get it to work which shouldn't be hard.

I really miss my red GTC I'm just glad to have this one to work since they are so hard to find.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
178 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I also have another idea that might result in a SMIC performing the same as a FMIC in my 89 Baron. If you look at the AC condensor coil opening size, it is huge. About 3 feet across and 2 feet high completely filled by the coil. How about installing a small high performance aluminum radiator / AC coil combo and fan as far to the passenger side as possible. That would essentially free up over 12 inches of open facia on the right side straight through the grill. You could bolt on a large IC over the slot that would have direct short piping and direct ram air identical to a FMIC. Another option would be just installing a new small aluminum radiator only as far left as possible, and then cutting out the cooling fins on the AC coils. The amount of fins cut out are only about 20% of the total and leaving the condenser bars. The fins are what blocks ram air. This would allow mostly unimpeded ram air directly into the IC and the AC would not be significantly effected. Does this sound possible?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,134 Posts
i like the sound of your ideas, especially directing more air to the intercooler with a smaller radiator and rmoving some of the intercooler fins. the only thing i wonder is is it really worth it to continue to use a side mount cooler. no matter how much you direct air to it, you wont be able to get as much as a front mounted unit, or do a thing about the heat soak it will get being in the engine bay as opposed to in front of the rad/cond. if you went with your idea for a smaller radiator, and shift the condensor over as little as about an inch, you should have room to run your piping in and out on the drivers side of the car, and have the piping be only minimally longer than it is now. the benefits of having the cooler front mounted should heavily outweigh the slightly longer piping.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,663 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
178 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I agree an FMIC is the best way to go for optimum results. Just a lot of mods and plumbing and non-original looks. Lebaronguy, thats an awsome and clean install. I haven't given up hope on a SMIC that will work 90% as good as a FM. I can move the radiator over 2 inches and add a 2600 cfm fan shroud to the smaller size radiator before it interferes with the alternator. With the battery and cruise servo moved, I have another 2 inches on the driver side. Since the stock SM TII intercooler I believe is 15X7X3, this will give me another 4 inches of width and actually drop the bottom length down another 5 inches with radiator base moved over. So based on what I measure, I could go with a 20X10X4 with no problem as a SM. That's quite a bit of surface area for my power rating. Bell says they can customize the core, ends and connections to align with the current connections which are short straight shots. I currently have 2 1/8 id piping except for the 3" CAI which is boxed off in the corner with a K&N where the battery was. If I can actually install this large of a high flow IC vertically as a SM, then the only question is the ambient air flow. I could run diverter dams angled from the grill supports to the IC which would help re-direct more air flow in that direction. I could also look at a smaller more efficient condenser coil the same size as the radiator. If it were the same size as the radiator, that would leave about a perfect 10" wide 20" high full opening direct in front of the IC on drivers side. This could give close to the same surface area and air flow as a FMIC. I'm still cussing and discussing, but looks like it should work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,134 Posts
with my .02 in i whole-heartedly urge you to try your idea...lol. i love people coming up with new and innovative ideas. i agree that with some good directing of air flow, you could probably make it work as good, or at least close, to a fmic...and it sounds like you have the ideas there already. i say go for it and let us know what happens...:thumb:...it's certainly not going to hurt anything, as long as you dont block too much airflow to the rad/condensor with your diverters....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
178 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
I talked with my garage mechanic and he agreed that it could work close to a FMIC. My current radiator is the side SM TII which does a good job cooling with a lager fan. Moving it over a couple inches to the passenger side and having a couple more inches available on the driver side without the battery will give me room. He said he can also find an AC condenser the same size as the radiator and install directly behind the radiator to keep my AC for summer driving. This should give a full opening about close to 10 inches wide and 20 inches long for a direct air shot from the grill. I will keep you posted with pics and performance on completion.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top