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Discussion Starter #1
I know everybody gets irritated with the new guy who doesn't do his homework. I just bought a 1985 Omni Turbo GLH and I know nothing about this car. Anybody want to throw me a bone by telling me where I should start?

What are the go-to aftermarket performance websites?
What are the most common performance mods (within daily driver limits)?

Most of all, I don't like being the lazy jackass who just asks everybody else questions, so where do I start reading?
 

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Vroom vroom.
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Let's get you started modding! Welcome to FWD Performance, Inc.. Turbos Unleashed.
Forward Motion Inc - Specializing in FWD Dodge Performance Parts. Be sure all your vacuum lines are in good condition and stuff like that etc. Easiest mods to get you started is A boost controller link to the one I use ->?????????. Don't crank boost up to much higher than stock but keep under 14.7 psi. In my opionon the best and easiest upgrade for power on a stock car. If you have to modding bug check out this link. http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f62/358228-getting-20-pounds-per-square-inch.html
 

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Discussion Starter #6
For sure. The car only has a bit over 50,000 miles, but the flip side is it sat for quite a while. I am expecting to have to replace some odds and ends before I start tweaking too much.
 

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Once you get the car running as it should, maybe look into simple stuff first, a bigger exhaust to boot, at least 2.5 inches.

One concept you really need to make sure you grasp is that in stock form, with stock injectors and MAP and ecu, you will not be able to exceed the magic number mentioned above(14.7 psi). If you remember that then you won't destroy the car lol. Get yourself a GOOD boost gauge and keep things accurate lol.

Keeping the stock "log" style intake is up to you. The "log" cars were 1987 and previous turbo 1 cars. The "blow through" intakes of the t2 and 1988 and up t1 cars were better, but that doesn't mean the log is bad, especially if you're keeping it basic.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The DDG database page is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks tryingbe.
Jakecs, these intakes are interchangeable all the way up to what, 1993? I'm not sure what the difference is between a t1 and a t2 car.

I'm going to pick up my car tomorrow. I am stoked, I had no idea that Chrysler made any badass cars later than the mid 70's.
 

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I know earlier t2 intake manifolds were 2 pieces, and I believe 1989(maybe 88) and up were one piece on both t1 and t2. Someone correct me on that if I am wrong.

But the two piece intake manis off of the t2 cars are more popular for porting and max flow.

But yeah, you can convert to the "blow through" setup with either of the manifolds.
 

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this is an 85 glh-t?? havent seen many of those before, most were carbed cars that i've seen, i swapped a few of them over to t-1 setup (whole swap out of a charger) went smooth that way as well. anyway, good luck and dont hesitate to ask questions, they are going to come up so ask away, we are here to help.
 

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first thing to do is pull the head. Add new SS turbo lines and add a rebuild kit to the turbo. If your block isn't an 11mm bolt block I would drill and tap the block to 11mm and run ARP or Mopar Performance bolts. It will also need a good head gasket, get the MP head gasket and drill the coolent holes in it to line up with the older head. Buy a 2.5" or 3" swing valve for the exhaust and plug the EGR port in the front of the compressor. Add a new 4 wire 02 sensor

Then add the head back on and add a 88 TBI roller cam or a later TBI cam with 4 degree cam key advancing it. Then add the PTs and roller followers. Add a new timing belt.

Now the engine is cleaned up and add new vac lines. Map, fuel reg and boost solenoid is important to have in great shape. Add new wires, cap and rotor, plugs. The wires don't last long on a daily driver.

Mods, as that was sort of a resto list.
poly front mount
FWDperformance.com stage 2 computer
turbo back 2.5" exhaust with straight through magnaflow muffler.
hiem joint linkage.

That is about as far as you want to go right off the bat. Give your self some seat time at this power level to work out any bugs. Clean and grease all the electrical connections. Learn how to read your codes. After some seat time then look at bigger mods. Being an L body the trans will need to go and I would up grade the brakes. SLH 3, with mini van fronts and solid rears with 7/8 marked 87-88 Shelby Daytona master cylinder.
 

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A lot of you beginning mods will depend on how far you want to go in the future. Reason I say this, you could end up buying parts twice in you journey for more power. For instance, if you're just looking for a pretty fun, peppy daily driver, you can get a Stage 2 computer from FWDperformance, but if you end up wanting to go T2, swapping intake manifolds and turbos, a 3bar map sensor and big injectors, you might as well wait, and find an 87 computer, or convert to a later system.

But, for what it's worth, my car has a FWDperformance stage 2 computer, K&N filter, and a 2.25", out the side exhaust with a magnaflow muffler and no cat, and it is a significant gain over stock. It'll get the tires spinning in 2nd gear from a roll, and it gets about 29mpg on the highway.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
So I picked up my car a few days ago and it's in really good shape. I still need to get it smogged and I'm a little concerned about that. I figure with the low mileage it should be ok. Then I'm ready to start taking it apart.
My plan is:
The 88 TBI cam Pope mentioned +the prep work
Stage 2 computer, 803 injectors, K&N filter, ported exhaust manifold, 2.5 exhaust with no cat, boost controller
Questions: The difference between my stock O2 sensor and a 4 wire?
Will the T2 exhaust manifold bolt right up?
 

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The mod list provided will give you a nice gain, it'll wake the car up a good bit. Just don't worry about the injectors, the 803 injectors are the same as what you have stock.

The only difference between the T1 and T2 exhaust manifold is that the turbo flange is clearanced for the intake runners on the blow through. It will bolt up just fine.

The 4 wire O2 sensor is a pretty decent upgrade. The factory 1 wire sensor grounds through the exhaust manifold. The 4 wire sensors are heated, and have their own ground wires, and because of that, they come up to temp much more quickly, and they are more accurate.
 

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The FWDperformance Stage 2 ECU turns it up to 14psi using the stock boost control setup, so yes, you will be perfectly fine. A manual boost controller will respond faster than the factory boost control solenoid though.
 
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