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Discussion Starter #1
thx for reading this post

For 2 days now, im the (new) owner of a dodge 600 1985 2.2 T1 black convertible.
Which i bought with an ignitionproblem.

"After i changed the battery (with new), it wouldn't start anymore".. the seller told me.

But now, after a day of trouble shooting, i decided to drop a message for help.

What's happening with this dodge?

- engine rotates but won't start.
- sparkplugs, spark cable, distributor cap, distributor, hall sensor (2 connectors) and coil are new.
- fault code 12 en 55 (battery disconnected, memory lost & end of message)
- power module taken from my aries 87 wagon 2.2 non turbo but didn't help to get a spark
- one wire to coil (+) has power when key is switch on
- cleaned all wire ends (coil) and connectors (hall sensor), also screw and coilring/ connection to body is sandpapered/ rustfree (done with sandpaper P400/grease)
- start relais changed with one from wagon (wagon has a running engine)
- fusebox has no burnt fuses
- hal sensor has 2 connectors; 1 white, 1 black. Both has 3 pins
- timingbelt, still one piece
- battery little weak, even with booster no spark
-

hal sensorconnectors & measuring (key switch on)
white connector
calbe colour
brown/yellow - 9,90 V
orange - 10,55 V
black/blue - 0,01 V

black connector
cable colour
grey/black - 4,37 V
black/bue - 10,55 V
oranje - 0,01 V

I wonder what to do now to get a happy blue spark
Could there be anyone willing to share ignition knowledge/ contribute to solve my - no spark - issue?
Thx in advanced. Im looking forward to ur reply.
Excuse me for my english, incase something is not written correctly

Ps. i noticed an ignition switch on the stiring column. could this be the pain in the ass?
 

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You say timing belt still intact.they don't break they strip the teeth at the crank. Check to see if the cam gear or distributor are turning when cranking.
 

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BTW they break also lol. Depends on the RPMs though I suppose, I've snapped 2.2 belts. Sure does a lot of damage to the cover
 

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you statd that you have power to 1 side of the coil, did you check to see if the power goes through the coil to the other side (neg side of coil) ? if it does have power through the coil,take a test light and check for a blink on the negitive side of the coil while cranking the car over, if the test lamp does not blink, you have a failed hall effect pick up coil in the distributer.
 

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you statd that you have power to 1 side of the coil, did you check to see if the power goes through the coil to the other side (neg side of coil) ? if it does have power through the coil,take a test light and check for a blink on the negitive side of the coil while cranking the car over, if the test lamp does not blink, you have a failed hall effect pick up coil in the distributer.
add IF the Cam is turning
 

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90 Daytona Shelby, 89 Spirit ES, 96 Jeep XJ
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Just to be clear, have you used a spark tester to verify you aren't getting spark? Need to verify spark and fuel are both getting into the cylinder.

Two things come to mind when you say the previous owner claims a battery swap killed the car. Number 1, why did they need to swap the battery? Was it just dead or were they also having starting issues and killed the battery trying to start it. Number 2, when the battery was swapped, did something get knocked loose? There are ground wires, fuseable links, and the neutral safety wire all right there under and behind the battery.
 

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you statd that you have power to 1 side of the coil, did you check to see if the power goes through the coil to the other side (neg side of coil) ? if it does have power through the coil,take a test light and check for a blink on the negitive side of the coil while cranking the car over, if the test lamp does not blink, you have a failed hall effect pick up coil in the distributer.
Sorry but that is incorrect.
No power to the + coil cranking would indicate a HEP issue because no crank signal = no ASD actuation - no power to the + coil, fuel pump and injectors.
Power to the + and nothing on the - while cranking indicates an open primary circuit in the coil.
Power on the + and a steady light on the - while cranking indicates an issue with the coil control circuit.
 

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Where can I purchase the engine control/power module for my 1985 Dodge Daytona Turbo multi point EFI? I also need the wiring harness for the 4 fuel injectors. Please reply if you can help. and thank you ahead of time. John.
 

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Where can I purchase the engine control/power module for my 1985 Dodge Daytona Turbo multi point EFI? I also need the wiring harness for the 4 fuel injectors. Please reply if you can help. and thank you ahead of time. John.
You should probably open a thread in the "Parts Wanted" section for the PM and harness or check your local JY.
The PM is the same for all 85-87 vehicles TBI and Turbo.

What is wrong with your fuel injector harness?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I ordered a new ecm, logic module ( with blue and red connectors, passenger side bolted)@ rockauto
And spark happily return.

Thx for all replies and support.
This forum is really great.
I'm from holland and a 2.2 T1 is rare.
So I'm delight to see this forum is very alive
Thumbs up for [email protected] turbododge forum
Thx
 
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