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Discussion Starter #1
88 daytona 2.5 5 speed.
My baby runs fine from cold start up, warms up driving along, then stalls out usually when decelerating or idling. Engine will crank fine but not restart. I have to let it cool down for 30mins then it will start again. Go driving fine, warms up, and stalls again. It burped once when accelerating too. Sometimes it doesnt stall at all. Fault codes getting stored are 25 and 31. Is my fuel pump kaput? Is it my AIS? I had to pay a tow truck 65 clams to recover it today in rush hour. HELP!!!!
 

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Sounds like a similar problem I had with my 86 Shelby Charger. Drove me nuts, it
ended up being the fuel pump. When it would get hot it would stop working, then
when it cooled off it worked fine.
 

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The only way you will know for sure is to perform diagnostics when the condition exists.
What are you missing? Fuel? Spark? A combination of both?
Could be numerous things,HEP,Coil,Fuel Pump,ASD related problem.
Your 2 codes are not related to your no start.
25 is AIS and you would be able to restart by opening the throttle slightly and 31 is a purge solenoid circuit.
Can you duplicate the problem leaving the vehicle run in front of your house until it stalls? If so you need to hook up a fuel pressure gauge and let the vehicle run until it stalls.If fuel pressure drops off and you still have power and ground at the pump,replace the pump assuming the pickup tube and fuel filter are clear.
Static Rail pressure is 53-57 PSI and Rail Pressure with the engine running will be 44-48 PSI (with 18"HG applied to the FPR)
If you lose fuel pressure and spark you need to check the HEP and ASD relay circuits.
If you only lose spark you need to examine the ignition coil.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
OK guys. I have a shop I can use tommorow (Sunday). I am an Industrial mechanic (NOT an auto mechanic) No hoist but big warm warehouse and fully tooled machine shop. Boss says OK to work on my baby during weekends. I will put together a fuel pressure gauge and run the engine at idle until if fails. After failure, how should I test spark? I have a multimeter and a FLUKE process meter. Can I test right off the coil after failure?
My baby has been good to me for 2 years, and I am quite attached to my l'il Daytona (141K), and I am taking a time out today so I can work on it tommorow a little more relaxed. :p
 

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When the vehicle stalls if fuel pressure dropped off to check for spark remove the coil wire from the dist cap and hold 1/4" from a good engine ground.(Using insulated pliers is recommended) and crank the engine for 10 seconds,you should see a nice strong blue spark.If there is spark your problem is not HEP or ASD related.Check for power at the fuel pump while cranking and if it is present replace the pump.
If there is no power at the pump while cranking check for power at the + coil while cranking,if no power is present turn the key off and ground the DB/YL wire at the diagnostic connector,turn the key on and the pump should run and power should be present at the + coil,if so the ASD Relay is good and your problem is HEP related.
 

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To check spark you can just pull one plug wire put a screw driver in the boot to touch the metal and hold it next to the engine and have someone crank it over while looking to see if the spark jumps. 25 years ago I would just call a guy named Wallace and he would come over and just stuff his finger in the wire while I cranked it. He would either say no or HO HO. A bad HEP will set a code 11 but only if the computer has never seen a good HEP signal. So if it won't restart reset the computer by disconnecting the battery for something like 15 seconds and try to start it. If it doesn't start check codes and see if it set an 11.
Tim
 

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Faulty HEP's will also set a code 54(Dist Sync Pick Up Signal) but I have seen HEP's fail and not set a code at all so do not be fooled by no code.
The problem you are describing sounds like a classic fuel pump problem and that is probably what you will find but it is better to be sure than just throw parts at it and be wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
OK I changed the fuel Pump!! What a $#%$$ job. That locking ring looked like an old pair of lips when I finally got it off! Lucky I have a machine shop, I cleaned the ring up and reshaped it back to a doughnut. Changed the fuel filter. Put some new line in as well. Fired it up and drove it home. It burped a couple of times on the way home. (10 mile trip) I hope like hell it is air bubbles working their way out of the fuel lines as I didnt bleed it. Will keep you up to date.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
OK. I should have followed your advice NAJ. I now have a new alternator, fuel pump, fuel line, and fuel filter. I still stall :bang head. It seems when I tickle the wires leading to the fuel injector it restarts. I suspect the place where the wires come out of the throttle body and go from light gauge to heavier gauge (GR/WHT), is where it is shorting. I will pull these wires and repair. I will also follow your previous advice re coil and HEP.
Humbly, your idiot parts thrower.
 

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Do not beat yourself up. Experiance is the best teacher and we have all been guilty of replacing parts especially when it is a problem that seems to be common,you say I know what that is and 5 parts later you scream and say I guess now i will diagnoise,it is human nature.
Look at it as a positive learning experiance,you are learning more about your car and how it works and next time you will be able to jump right in,diagnoise and repair and that is a great feeling of satisfaction when that is accomplished.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
:) My baby is back on the prowl!! purring like a kitten. The whole thing was just the wires to the fuel injector. Took it out for sea trials the last 2 days and everything is tickety boo. At the very least, I know I gotta lot a new parts I won't have to worry about. ;)
 

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Glad everything is fixed.You did however gain vast experiance and knowledge that you will have forever.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I spoke too soon. I am having trouble making a good wire splice on the FI harness. I tried soldering but the solder seems to melt and wires become loose again. I will try butt splices (crimp-on) BUT , as I am running out of length on the FI harness (getting near the FI well, I am thinking of just buying a whole throttle body assembly at a wrecker 2 hrs away that still has some 88 G bodies. Chrysler Canada located 1 1988 FI harness in North America, somewhere in Michigan. 179$ + taxes. 7 day wait. I think I will get a friend to drive me to the wrecker and just salvage a whole throttle body plus wiring. 90$.
The good news is I now know the exact source of the stalling and no more guesswork.
To be continued........... ;)
 

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When soldering the wire must be clean of all grease and dirt.Even though you are using an electrical rosin core solder I always put a dab of flux on the wires and on the tip of the soldering iron,not only does it clean the surfaces it helps with heat transfer.
The other key to soldering is that the soldering iron must be placed on the bottom side of what you are soldering until the wire becomes hot(not just the tip of the soldering iron) and then you place the solder on top of the wire and the solder will flow from the top thru the wire towards the heat otherwise you end up with a cold solder joint that is not secure.
Since you are working under the hood be absolutly sure all splices are weatherproofed or you will encounter problems down the road. I recommend you use Mopar Heat Shrink on all splices. Mopar Heat Shrink is a double wall heatshrink with a gel inside that will ooze out and seal the connection when you heat it.You just use a cigarette lighter running it back and forth along the heatshrink unti it oozes and you are done.
Mopar Heat Shrink is Black/Dark Grey in color and is available at any dealer.
Keep us posted on how things go.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well........I replaced the injector wire harness and it still is giving me an intermittent stall. When I wiggle the injector wiring it restarts, but I also wiggle the HEP leads. Maybe its the HEP. I will run a electrical diagnosis on Weds night.
 

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It is very common for the wires in the HEP to break internally especially where they exit the distributor. When replacing the HEP do not bend the wires down the side of the distributor as the factory had them or they will break,you want to avoid any sharp bends in the HEP wiring.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
:rolleyes: OK! New HEP. I was careful with the wire and didnt screw down the rain shield on that side. I put the pigtail in a big loop and carefully secured it with ty-wraps. NO STALLING!!! So far 3 trips to work and back! :) So after a rebuilt alternator, fuel pump, fuel filter, FI harness and a HEP I think I got it right!! LOL shoulda run a diagnostic. While I was tinkering, I noticed the sheave on the water pump is wobbling, intermittent. I slacked off the drive belt and sure enough the sheave is a lil loose. Probably shot bearings. So NEXT JOB: Rebuilt water pump. But its nice to have my daily commute mobile back running. I'll keep an eye on the temp gauge. I want a week or two off before I get into her again!! ;)
 

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You can replace the water pump seperatly by unbolting the housing but if the timing belt has not been changed I would recommend doing them both at the same time.
 

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I didnt have time to get into the timing belt so I unbolted the whole water pump housing and took it into my shop. I got a quality rebuild that came with a good gasket and O-ring. I used gasket adhesive, and never seize on the old bolts. New lower hose, new upper hose and new hose clamps. Re-assembled and loaded up with 50/50 antifreeze. The engine is SO quiet now! :) I have owned this Daytona for 2.5 years and it has never run so quiet! I love it! :p Its so good to have my ride back on the road!
 
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