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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Greeting from Germany, Just bought a 1990 Chrysler ES Turbo 1{Same as Dodge Shadow** the other day, drove it home with the check engine light on, drove it to work, arrived fine but, it would not restart. Pulled the codes. TPS error, Baro Error 61, Auto shutdown relay 42. I looked in the engine compartment, found just below the MAP sensor the Baro did not see any thing out of the ordanary. Looked on the drivers side and saw that two relays were missing. Big one and smaller one close to headlight. I have a Dodge Caravan with a 3.3, will the TPS fit on the Shadow and will the voltage be the same? Were can I buy the relays?and what should I do with the Baro problem? Im in a time crunch because I drove on dealer plates to work and I dont want to anger my boss with a car with no plates at work. Thank you in advance. The car while it worked was Scare Fast, Much fun on the Autobahn, and a big grin on my face:D Thank David
 

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I'll try to help you here.
Code 61 = "Baro" sensor open or shorted (this refers to the berometric silonoid)
This is next to the MAP sensor. Unplug the connector and clean it as best you can and reinstall. If this does not fix it you'll need a new one most likely.
Code 42 = Z1 voltage missing when autoshutdown circuit energized
The Z1 voltage is the voltage of the circuits fed by the autoshutdown relay. This typically includes fuel pump and switched-battery feed to the ignition coil(s). In my Le Baron, the Z1 circuit leaves the power module and splits into two paths: the fuel pump and the positive side of the ignition coil. Internal to the power module is the auto shutdown relay (in my case, it's a sealed box about 1" by 1"). The output voltage is monitored to determine whether the relay responds correctly. I suspect that the ASD relay (and, therefore, the Z1 circuit) also feeds the fuel injector(s) driver(s) and current sensing circuit, but can't prove this.

I've used the Z1 voltage to test for good power connections to the power module. I connected my OTC 500 multimeter from the battery's positive post to the ignition coil's switched battery terminal and measured the voltage drop using the bar graph to monitor peak voltages. Voltage spikes of around 200 mV to 300 mV are ok -- anything more means tv tuner cleaner time (or replacing the power module). Another thing to check is the maximum voltage drop during the priming pulse. With the old power module, I was losing about 2 volts across the circuit; the replacement is losing about 1/4 volt. (Thanks, Bohdan Bodnar)

Unconfirmed correction: The Z1 Circuit is used to feed the engine computer; if it is lost, the delayed turnoff will not occur, and restarting will not go well. I forget but think it is the engine flair (speed flair up upon starting) that is lost. It also feeds the injectors and solenoids and other relays. (Thanks, Tom Wand)

Code 24 = Throttle position sensor over 4.96V
The throttle postion circuit tells the computer how far the accelerator is depressed. The Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) is on the throttle body on the opposite side of the throttle cable. The connector should have a round rubber cover over the connections. Clear the fault codes, start the car and try jiggling the wires/connectors to try to trip a fault code. Loss of this signal could cause other problems. Yhis tells you if it's just a bad connection but if it does not fix the problem you may need to replace the TPS.

By the way you should have 4 relays (depending on year) on the drivers side close to the battery. They include the auto shutdown, A/C, radiator fan and starter.

I got all this info off of Allpar.com
Hope this helps...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the quick reply, Its midnight here, I try in the morning to apply your information and get the car running and thru inspection. I will also keep you updated on my progress. The old post in this foram are a great help. Thanks David
 

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The ASD relay has to be there or the car will not run.
ASD circuit code is listed under "No Start" tests so be sure that is a true fault, somebody may have been in there before you got the car and inadvertently set the code.
Clear the codes(be sure they are cleared) and crank/start the car and see what code(s) return.
If the Caravan ia a 1990 Autozone online is showing the TPS is the same.
Here are the diagnostics for the ASD and Baro Solenoid.











 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks NAJ for the illistrations and the help.The two pigtail hanging out ,are most likely the AC and the scanner. I have no AC, so I should be fine. I cleaned the contact to the BARO and the car started fine. Went back to put away my tools and take it for a spin, no start again. Strange. I will go thru the troubleshooting procudure and update you on what happen. Thanks David
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
PS I am also going thru the old threads to gather information on how to repair this beast. It will be fun when its over. David
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well, I looked at the information that NAJ and WayneWillia sent and went thru the flow chart with my FLUKE and things were just not working out. I looked at the pictures and at the 60 Pin pigtail.I tripled checked the paper work against the 60 pin and then looked up and saw on the EPA sticker and saw that it was a 1989 Dodge Shadow not a 1990! I think the wires are different, same theory, different pin out. Very Sorry. Could NAJ or WayneWillia contact me and suggest a new plan of attack? Thanks David. As I said before, It did start after I cleaned off the contacts on the Baro sensor, ran for about 10-15 seconds then shut off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
NAJ, I have seen your other post on the code 42 for 1989 Dodge Shadow T1. I will work the problem thru tomarrow. Thanks Bye David:bang head
 

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Here are the SMEC connector pin outs for your 89.Diagnostics should be the same, controllers are different.
Let me know if you need the full wiring.





 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
NAJ, Replaced the ASD Relay with one from a Dodge Caravan, fired right up! Yea. Now were can I buy a new Baro sensor? AutoZone? Any other suggestions?Thanks David
 

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I do not think they are available aftermarket.
First see if there is a part # on yours and I can see if it is still available thru Mopar.
My 1990 has the part # on the back side.
The part # for my 90 is 5234217 and is still available, list price is $31.00
I scanned the solenoid, is this what yours looks like?



 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
:thumb:Hello,NAJ! My computer crashed, it took a little while to sort things out. I will inspect the BARO tomarrow (Sunday) at work to check for the parts number, Again thanks for all your help, I did put some plates on the car and drove it to the gas station to put it on a lift to see what it would need for inspection. Alot, I guess! Brake lines, Brakes, Suspension, Ball joints, tie rods, cv joints, exaust complete, and some underbody welding but other than that, ITS a GREAT CAR! Wink WInk, nudge nudge! MP!:bash::thumb::)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
NAJ, I pulled off the BARO Sensors and the number on the bottom was "3268" I will check the voltage and ohms here is a second. david:TDFTW:
 
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