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I have a 87 shelby t1 charger, it was sitting for awhile. I decided to get it running, well its running after a clutch tranny and axles. I can run my stock logic module and it idles fine, but when i install my stage 2 it idles at 2000 rpms. I have heard that water can leak in and ruin the logic modules, anyone ever dealt with this before. The car set outside with the stage 2 installed, was running fine before it was parked. I did full tune up and all the basics to get it running good.
 

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No codes the power loss light isn't on, but how could I check for stored codes. I opened it and it looks just fine to me.
 
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How to get the code/s for Chrysler 1983-1995 vehicles:

Within a period of 5 seconds, cycle the ignition key
ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON.



1. Count the number of time the MIL (check engine lamp)
on the instrument panel flashes on and off. The number
of flashes represents the trouble code. There is a short
pause between the flashes representing the 1st and 2nd
digits of the code. Longer pauses are used to separate
individual 2-digit trouble code.

An example of a flashed DTC is as follows:

-Lamp flashes 4 times, pauses, then flashes 6 more times.

This denotes a DTC number 46.
-Lamp flashes 5 times, pauses, then flashes 5 more times.

This indicates a DTC number 55.
DTC 55 will always be the last code to be displayed.

Here's how your ignition key looks like. Make sure to cycle
it between on and off positions only.


Clearing codes can be performed by turning the ignition off
and removing the negative battery cable for at least 1 minute.
Removing the negative battery cable may cause other systems
in the vehicle to loose their memory. Prior to removing the
cable, ensure you have the proper reset codes for radios
and alarms.

If you find some difficulties on doing this, you can take your car to
Auto Zone parts store and they can scan the code FREE for you. They
do this to encourage you to buy parts from them. However, don't buy
anything just yet till you confirmed the code with ATS. When you become
a member, we will show you the tests on the codes so you don't have to
buy unnecessary parts. Complete instructions will come with drawings and
wiring diagrams.

Chrysler products COMMON CODES OBD1 (vehicles made before 1995)

NOTE....
The fault code indicates a problem in that "circuit" it does not necessarily mean that the component itself is at fault.
Diagnostics need to be performed to determine the issue creating the fault code.

Part 1: Chrysler Domestic vehicles

CODES/Meaning

88 display used for start or test(will only be seen using a DRB2 scanner)
11 camshaft signal or ignition signal, no reference signal during cranking
12 memory to controller has been cleared within 50-100 engine starts
13 map sensor vacuum, no change from start to run or output voltage does not equal throttle position
14 map voltage too high or too low
15 vehicle speed sensor, no signal detected
16 knock sensor circuit. open or short detected
17 low engine temperature, possible thermostat fault
21 oxygen sensor signal, neither rich or lean detected
22 coolant sensor voltage low/high
23 air charge voltage high/low detected
24 throttle position sensor voltage high/low
25 automatic idle speed motor driver circuit, short or open detected
26 injectors 1,2,3 peak current not reached, problem in injector control circuits cylinder 1 and/or 2.
27 injector control circuit does not respond to control signal, problem in injector control circuits 3 and/or 4
31 purge solenoid circuit, open or short detected
32 egr solenoid circuit, open or short detected
33 a/c clutch relay circuit, open or short detected
34 speed control servo solenoid, open or short detected
35 radiator fan control relay circuit, open or short detected
36 wastegate solenoid, open or short detected
37 Baro read solenoid
41 charging system circuit not responding to control signal, alternator field circuit not switching properly
42 fuel pump or auto shutdown (ASD) relay voltage sensed at controller
42 Z1 voltage sense
43 ignition control circuit not responding
44 battery temperature voltage circuit problem
45 turbo boost limit exceeded-map sensor detects overboost
46 battery voltage too high..overcharging
47 battery voltage too low...battery voltage low or charging output low
51 air/fuel at limit
51 lean exhaust indication, O2 voltage latched below .450 volts
52 logic module fault
52 rich exhaust indication, O2 voltage latched above .450 volts
53 internal controller failure (normal code on a re-calibrated controller)
54 fuel sync signal not detected during cranking
55 end of message
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thanks for that, im checking codes as i'm type this hoping to get this figured out. This car is a dog with the stock logic module in.
 

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I have a 87 shelby t1 charger, it was sitting for awhile. I decided to get it running, well its running after a clutch tranny and axles. I can run my stock logic module and it idles fine, but when i install my stage 2 it idles at 2000 rpms. I have heard that water can leak in and ruin the logic modules, anyone ever dealt with this before. The car set outside with the stage 2 installed, was running fine before it was parked. I did full tune up and all the basics to get it running good.
I'm glad you brought this up:
Most every component on the circuit board is encapsulated and should withstand humidity or getting wet.
The connectors however, can get corroded.
I'm including pictures of the original CS1017 Logic Module from 1987 GLHS #0325 for a visual reference.
The board and connectors are in very good shape and is identical to the Shelby Charger T-1 in shape, layout and connectors.

NOTE: this board was modified to include a socket for the E-prom chip. I have the original, while the one installed now has modified calc's.

There is one part on the board that Will go bad over time and one that should also be replace with a tighter tolerance.
That is the blue colored electrolytic capacitor shown in the last picture on the upper right.
These have a lifespan anywhere from a few years to 10 years depending on several things.
I don't know what part of the circuit its used in, could be voltage regulation or a filter circuit.
It may have something to do with the RPM's.
If you replace it, go with a military spec version in the same capacitance in uF but go with a 105 deg. spec and best tolerance you can find ( hopefully under 20%).
The other part to replace would be the carbon film resistor in the last picture on the bottom left.
That one is a 1 ohm (Brown/Black/Gold/Gold) 5% tolerance type. I believe its a 2-watt.

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