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Looking for a thicker radiator. Can someone link me to a better cooling than stock radiator? Some non welding modification needed is fine.
 

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It would help to tell us the year of your Shadow as the radiator core support changed over the years. Is your heater core plugged up? Do you have really good heat, or just so-so heat? That will also cause vehicle to run hot as the waterpump will cavitate without it. One way to check this is place vehicle in max AC mode, this bypasses the heater core (through diverter valve). Does vehicle run cooler is AC max mode?
BTW they don't make OEM radiators anymore, so finding a NOS one is next to impossible. Lots of the base and T1 Shadows just used single core radiators, but a new one should do the job for you.
 

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Hello,
It could be the core. Never good heat. It's a 94. Skinny little radiator. I'd sure feel better with a thicker one.
 

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Exactly what is the problem, lack of heat, running hot or both?
Is the engine actually overheating or does the gauge reads high?
What engine is in this car, 2.2L/2.5L or 3.0L?

My Son owned a 94 Sundance 3.0L for years, never had any running hot/overheating issues and raced the car for 5 years, plenty of info and experience available if you would like to figure this out.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hello,
It is a 2.5, tbi. The guage will read high on hot day's going under load.
 

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How high?
3/4 the way up on an 80/90 degree day is normal before the cooling fan kicks on.
The cooling fan cycles on at 210 degrees F.
The gauges in these cars are not accurate, mine reads 3/4 in Summer and 1/4 in Winter even though coolant temp is the same, you need to verify that the engine is actually running hot.
Start by backprobing the CTS connector with a digital voltmeter and see what the voltage reads when the cooling fan cycles on.

I can post a pic and the voltage to temperature chart later on.

You can also make two long jumper wires so you can view the meter in the car to see actual voltage/temp when you are under load and you think you are running hot.(take along a helper).

Also check the upper and lower radiator hoses for soft/weak spots where the hose may be collapsing.
Also be sure the radiator cap holds and releases pressure.
Is there any lose of coolant either from the radiator or overflow bottle?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thank you. I think the heater core is a place to start.
Any input on doing a replacement?
 

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HEATER CORE REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

NOTE: The evaporator case (Heater-A/C housing) must be removed from the vehicle first. See: Evaporator Case\Service and Repair

Remove heater A/C unit top cover.
Remove heater core to dash panel seal from the core tubes and remove the heater core from the unit.
To install, reverse the preceding operation.


HEATER/AC HOUSING REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
From inside the engine compartment, disconnect battery negative cable.
Discharge A/C refrigerant and disconnect lines at unit.
Drain radiator and disconnect heater hoses at unit Tape heater tubes to keep from leaking during removal.
Remove A/C condensate drain and disconnect vacuum lines.
Remove steering column cover.
Position front seat or right front seat full rear.
Remove right A-pillar trim.
Remove right cowl side trim.
Remove glove box.
Remove right instrument panel roll-up screw.
Remove center bezel.
Remove lower center module cover.
Remove floor console.
Remove instrument panel support brace (from steering column opening to right cowl side at bottom of instrument panel).
Remove instrument panel to support bracket (below glove box opening).
Remove ash receiver.
Remove radio.
Remove panel top cover.
Remove 3 right side panel to fence (below windshield) attaching screws.
Pull right lower side of instrument panel rearward.
Remove center distribution and defroster adapter ducts.
Disconnect relay module.
Remove instrument panel to unit bracket.
Remove lower air distribution duct
Disconnect blower motor wire connector.
Disconnect demister hoses from top of unit
For Non ATC, disconnect the temperature control cable flag from the bottom of the heater- A/C unit and unclip the cable from the left side of the heat distribution duct Swing the cable out of the way to the left.
For Non ATC, disconnect the vacuum lines at the unit.
For ATC, disconnect the instrument panel wiring from the rear face of the ATC unit.
Fold floor right side carpet back (except AC body).
From engine compartment, remove 4 unit attaching nuts.
Remove unit hanger strap lower screw, and rotate strap.
Move heater-A/C unit rearward to clear mounting studs and lower.
Remove demister adapter from top of unit
While pulling the lower right of instrument panel rearward, slide unit upright from under instrument panel for AP-body

HEATER/AC HOUSING DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY
Place the heater-A/C unit on a suitable work surface.
Locate and remove one, 1/4-20 retaining nut from the blend-air door pivot shaft.
Using a common pair of pliers, place one plier jaw on top of pivot shaft and the other jaw under the crank arm linkage and pinch the crank arm off of the pivot shaft.
Disconnect the vacuum lines from the defrost and panel mode vacuum actuators and position them out of the way.
Remove three heater-A/C unit cover attaching screws going upward at the defroster outlet chamber.
Remove two heater-A/C unit cover attaching screws going upward at the air inlet plenum
Remove eleven heater-A/C unit cover attaching screws going downward into the housing and lift the cover from the heater A/C unit.
To reassemble, lower the heater-A/C unit cover into place. Then guide the panel air mode door pivot shaft into its socket and reverse the preceding operation.
 

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Hello,
It could be the core. Never good heat. It's a 94. Skinny little radiator. I'd sure feel better with a thicker one.
After you check out your heater core, if you are still looking for peace of mind with a larger radiator core then visit some local radiator shops - I've had thicker cores installed into the OEM tanks on non-Dodge cars with good results. It's best to drive the vehicle to the shop so they can see what they'll be working with and to see if fans and shrouds will have fitment issues. If a shop says they can fit a bigger core, you can remove the radiator yourself and drop it off to save labor costs. In most cases I've not needed a larger core unless the engine was modified for much greater output and I live in an area where summer temps will be 90 to 100+ F. My old '86 GLHS never ran excessively hot even while idling in staging lanes at the drags on a hot day.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I pulled the air-conditioning condenser out from in front of the radiator. That should help.
 

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I pulled the air-conditioning condenser out from in front of the radiator. That should help.
If the fins in the Rad are OK, I would suggested cleaning the inside of the cooling system before throwing parts at the issue.
I used Prestone rad flush as per https://www.walmart.com/ip/Prestone-Radiator-Flush-Cleaner-22-oz/35764365 and ran the car for a few weeks. I drained the coolant and backflushed with cooling system kit (a $10 kit from Prestone to allow you to use a hose to flush your system. I followed up with a Thermocure cleaning to finish up. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Thermocu...om-Cars-Cooling-System-32-oz-Bottle/131810444.

Now added new coolant after the last flush.

Both my 87 Sundance DD and CSX work great after the cleaning.
 

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I asked him to check "Actual" cooling system temperature and have not gotten an answer to that yet so we still do not know if the engine is "Actually" running hot.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Someday, when I have another hot indicating gauge, I will.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
She's running cooler:)
All the aircon is out of it, so better air flow. New heater core too.
But I think it's actually the bottle of water wetter coolant additive that did it.
 
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