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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
90 daytona es 2.5 turbo

ive never had to put the oil pan gasket on with the engine in the car. every time ive done it its been on an engine stand, and i always thanked the lord that i didnt have to do it under the car. now i do.

SO..

whats the easiest way to seal the oil pan to the block properly?

the 4 piece gasket kit from autozone?

RTV and only the side pieces?

how do i keep everything up there while i put the pan on?

this is INSANE. can you say AFTERTHOUGHT? who the &(*( designed this?

I GUARANTEE i could have designed a better oil pan and gasket. There is no reason the oil pan should not simply unbolt and MISS the rear triangular bracket, tranny shield, and front motor mount, and just COME OFF. there is NO REASON the oil pan gasket shouldnt be one piece and be retained either by the pan or by the block. THIS IS CRAP.

what a waste of time.

rant over.
 

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90 daytona es 2.5 turbo

ive never had to put the oil pan gasket on with the engine in the car. every time ive done it its been on an engine stand, and i always thanked the lord that i didnt have to do it under the car. now i do.

SO..

whats the easiest way to seal the oil pan to the block properly?

the 4 piece gasket kit from autozone?

RTV and only the side pieces?

how do i keep everything up there while i put the pan on?

this is INSANE. can you say AFTERTHOUGHT? who the &(*( designed this?

I GUARANTEE i could have designed a better oil pan and gasket. There is no reason the oil pan should not simply unbolt and MISS the rear triangular bracket, tranny shield, and front motor mount, and just COME OFF. there is NO REASON the oil pan gasket shouldnt be one piece and be retained either by the pan or by the block. THIS IS CRAP.

what a waste of time.

rant over.
actually felpro does make a one piece gasket along with a form of stud to hold the gasket up there while u install the pan, works awesome for installing it in the car, although i believe when i looked it up at work(i work at an auto parts store) it was like 13 vs 28 dollars big difference but saves alot of frustration.

and i know how u feel on the ranting, im pretty ticked off on some things in my life right now too, it sucks. well i know the weather effects it and it is snowing so hopefully it will be sunny out soon i got stuff to do. hope this helped
 

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actually felpro does make a one piece gasket along with a form of stud to hold the gasket up there while u install the pan, works awesome for installing it in the car, although i believe when i looked it up at work(i work at an auto parts store) it was like 13 vs 28 dollars big difference but saves alot of frustration.
The felpro is nicer but still a PITA :)
 

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hmmm i used a fel pro in my reliant... i just popped the triangle brace right off 3 bolts arent bad and those plastic things that felpro has makes it a friggen cake walk i think it took me an hour?

haha on my truck i have to take the motor out to even think about movin the pan....
 

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I had the same problem and my buddy told me to use blue rtv so I went back and took y time and got it on nice and not leaks.

The gasket set is a joke unless you have it out of the car!

FYI - they design the cars then and now so you and I can not work on them and have to pay $0+ hour rates at shops to get them fixed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
alright well i did it and heres how:

parts used:

4 piece oil pan gasket (2 side rails and front and back)
blue rtv
4 little "engine saver" studs that hold the gasket up

PRE-REMOVAL-OF-PAN
- remove triangular block/tranny bracket from rear of engine
- remove bottom front tranny to front motor mount bracket bolt
- remove small tranny shield bolt and pull out tranny shield

1) install 4 engine saver studs
2) slide front and rear LONG gaskets over studs
3) put RTV on "feet" of tranny side rail gasket and push it onto its retainer slot and make sure its locks into place in its little feet holder slots OVER the long gaskets. it will hold itself there AND the other gaskets no problem! YAY!
4) put RTV on the "feet" of the timing belt side rail gasket AND run a bead of RTV all along the surface which will contact its slot on the box. unlike the tranny gasket, it will NOT lock into place (why chrysler WHY?) so you are counting on the RTV to hold everything there.
5) push the oil pan up on the engine saver studs, let it hang there, and there should be enough room for you to put the timing side rail gasket in while the oil pan is already close to being installed. SO DO IT. make sure its feet go ON TOP of the long gaskets

MAKE SURE ALL THE GASKETS ARE IN THE RIGHT PLACE AND DID NOT FALL INTO THE OIL PAN. you should be able to see little protusions of the gaskets wrapping around the block.

6) tighten those bolts!! hurry!

7) take out the engine saver studs and put in real bolts

8) put on all the other crap you had to take off to get the pan on
 

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I'd like to add that if you are using te FelPro gasket with the metal rings around the bolt holes, it is VERY advisable to USE A TORQUEWRENCH!!! I alsways had leaks with that gasket because of overtightening. I actually towrqued it to spec the last time I did it...hey, what do ya know!? It didn't leak!!! And I only used RTV in the places it calls for.

BTW, I'm not a huge fan of the blue RTV. It never seemed to work well for me. I like either the black or gold.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
i thought it went without saying that you should use a torque wrench on this very thin gasket. 200 in lbs is what the FSM specifies. cmon people.

oh and i forgot to say that the tranny shield is easily bent, and even if its straight, when you try to put it back in, it will probably hit the block, so you need a long screwdriver to gently push its top edge towards the flywheel. very easy to do. but if you dont know whats going on its VERY frustrating. make sure to hammer it flat and get rid of any bends or knicks on the edges before you try re-installing it.
 

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Well, not everybody is accostomed to breaking out the torquewrench for 200in-lb! LOL. To *most* that is good-n-tight. Unfortunatly that is not the way to do it for this application. Hell, I bet most people don't even have an in-lb torquewrench, or one that goes low enough for that measurment!
 

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when i did mine i used this stuff by permatex, its called high tac. its purple and smells like bar b que sauce. its more or less a glue and what i did is used it on the gasket and "glued" it to the pan and then put some on the cleaned block and other side of the gasket and put it up. worked like a charm, no leaks until i had to rip the engine out cause i had a rod knocking. did it again with the rebuilt engine and it still doesnt leak (3500 miles so far) thing i like about high tack is that it dries in 5 minutes so theres no chance of the gasket squirting out when you torque it down.
 

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Figured I'd chime in.. 93 N/A 2.2 auto Shadow, small oil leak turned into bigger one after I rushed the pan gasket in place... (there was a section of "bunched up" gasket that misted oil all over the coolant overflow and front of the block)

I'm currently waiting for some RTV to set up, so I figured I'd share the method I'm trying... (EVERYTHING IS CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN, after removing the pan laast night, and letting the block drip-dry overnight and spraying clean with brake cleaner and wiping down with Acetone)

Use the pan bolts to hold the gasket to the clean block while light smear coat of RTV (on block side of gasket) sets up

the end seals with light RTV coat will hold the corners of the gasket....

I'll let you know how it goes (4 piece Fel Pro Blue rubber gasket set..)
 

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I only use the end rubber seals,never the side gaskets.Iuse the stud alignment method and use the"Right Stuff" on the side rails and the feet end of the rubber seals. Never had a leak.Some put the sealer between the rubber seals and the pan surface,but I don't.
 

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I only use the end rubber seals,never the side gaskets.Iuse the stud alignment method and use the"Right Stuff" on the side rails and the feet end of the rubber seals. Never had a leak.Some put the sealer between the rubber seals and the pan surface,but I don't.
Yep, same here. I use the end pieces and sealant on the rails, never had a leak.
 

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^ I've heard more and more of that.. I've worked on a lot of small block Chevys and that is how I've always done intake gaskets (use the side gaskets, but use RTV for the end seals instead of using the failure prone seals...)

I'll see how my repair goes- hopefully I won't be pulling the pan again anytime soon, BUT- if so, I'll either go 1 piece or toss the gaskets for some RTV....
 
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