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Discussion Starter #1
I have an 89 or 90 Daytona tbi 2.5L and I'm trying to build a simplified ignition wiring harness to run. There is no key switch, heater harness, most under dash wiring has been removed. I was in the process of installing a toggle switch for the ignition power routed into the original ignition switch harness. And a push button for the starter. All was good until I heard a sizzle and pop sound from under the hood. Some of the fusible links are fried. What do I do? Car turns over but will not start. Help please.
 

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The + coil, fuel injector and fuel pump are provided power from the ASD Relay.
The ASD relay will not be actuated until the engine controller see's a crank (RPM) signal from the HEP. (Hall Effect Pickup).

In order to help more I need to know if this is an 89 or 90.
10th digit of the VIN, K(89) or L(90) or...
Does the engine controller have a 14 pin and a 60 pin connector or just one 60 pin connector.

As far as your fusible links, you probably have not correctly wired your in car switches.
With the starter you should be controlling only the YL wire from the ignition switch and your "push button" or "toggle" has to rated at the proper amperage.
You would also have to tell me what else you removed or bypassed, which fusible links burnt?
Give me the wire colors before and after the burnt fusible links.

Once you give me a correct year I can send you wiring.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The engine controller under the hood has 1 large connector as i only see the one bolt holding it in. There is no vin tag left on the car, if it was on the driver side by the windshield its gone as the car has no dash at all. Car also has no heater assembly or any accessories to run other than the fuel pump (stock), rad fan, maybe a couple of small lights for my mechanical gauges. That's it, As for the fusible links there is an orange one, and two grey ones that have blown, pretty sure they are for ignition and fuel. I can get it to turn over but not fire.
 

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One connector means you have a SBEC ( Single Board Engine Controller) which is a 1990 or newer.
I will not be home until Monday and I can send you the wiring for a 90 Daytona then.
After looking at the wiring if you have any issues/questions Please feel free to ask.
You also may want to look into eliminating the Fusible Links and installing a PDC from a 91 - 93 Daytona.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So I just double checked the engine controller connections under the hood and it has the large 60 and a 14 pin connectors. Sorry to miss lead you. I was not around the car when I posted that last statement. 10th digit of the serial number is a K. Hope this helps.
 

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So the vehicle is an 89 with a SMEC (Single Module Engine Controller)
I will send you the appropriate wiring.
Again, should you have questions/concerns Please feel free to ask.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks. I really appreciate the help. I'm so frustrated with the electrical on this car. Its just a dirt track race car. Nothing fancy about it.
 

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Nothing fancy, however, unless you go carbureted with a standard breaker point ignition distributor or standard electronic ignition you will have to deal with a computer controlled EFI system that requires numerous sensors/ wiring.

I am happy to help/assist where I can.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
No I meant that there isn't anything else to run electronically in the car. Just under the hood stuff. If I could find all the right part to convert to the standard ignition with a carb that would be great. But parts like that are hard to come by. If you do find them, they are expensive.
 

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All relays operate the same way whether they are mechanical or solid state, as long as the amperage rating is the same and being sure you have your wiring correctly configured for the relay you are using
The relay requires two 12 volt inputs (Battery/Ignition Switch), a ground side control(Engine Controller) and an output to the component(s).(+ Coil, Injector(s), Fuel Pump,) on later models some also supply power to the HO2S and Alternator Field Circuit.

Just curious, what do feel your advantage will be going from mechanical to solid state?
The ASD as it is is not a high failure item.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Here is what I know so far. With the asd jumped there is fuel but no spark. Connected my test it to the negative side of the coil to ground. Cranked engine. Light comes on solid does not flash. I still need to test the HEP for correct operation. Is it possible that the ground circuit to the ignition coil could have been affected by the blown fusible links. Or worst case scenario is the engine control module cooked. Any advise would help. Thanks.
 

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The HEP provides a crank/rpm signal to the controller, when the controller see's this signal it will then actuate the ASD relay by grounding the control side of the relay, all this does is supply power to the + coil, fuel pump and injectors.
The engine controller controls the coil primary by opening and closing the coil -, when it is grounded the primary is connected and saturation of the primary winding's takes place, when the circuit is then opened (ungrounded) current stops flowing in the primary, the magnetic field collapses inducing voltage into the secondary winding's and you have spark.

If the test lamp stayed solid when connected to the coil - instead of flashing on/off then there is an issue with the coil control circuit.
1)Verify the coil itself is not faulty.
a)Remove the wire from the - coil terminal.
b)Connect a jumper wire to the - coil terminal
c)Remove the coil secondary wire from the distributor cap and hold 1/4" from a good ground.
d)Actuate the ASD relay and momentarily touch the jumper wire to ground and remove.
e)Each time you do this you should have spark.
IGNITION - Testing Coil.jpg
2)Verify ALL controller ground circuits have continuity to ground (<5 ohms)
3)Verify continuity from the coil - wire to the controller 14 pin connector cavity 12.
4)Verify the coil control wire (coil -) does NOT have continuity to ground.

DIST. REF. SIGNAL 1.jpg DIST. REF. SIGNAL 2.jpg DIST. REF. SIGNAL 3.jpg DIST. REF. SIGNAL 4.jpg IGNITION COIL CONTROL 1.jpg IGNITION COIL CONTROL 2.jpg IGNITION COIL CONTROL 3.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #15
So I did those tests and here is my findings. Distributor power 9 volt and sign 5 volt are good. HEP is operational. See 0 5 0 colts when starter is bumped. Jumped the asd relay. Cranked engine, I could see the fuel being injected into the throttle body. Then checked the continuity of the coil ground wire from the coil to the 14 pin slot #12 of the engine module. Good continuity no resistance. Then did that coil test. I could only get it to spark a few times and not everytime I removed the jumper from ground. So that's where I'm at. Anything I missed?
 

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Intermittent spark from the coil while testing = faulty coil as long as your 12 volts on the + side was constant and you are certain you were using a known good ground to make and break the connection.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Installed a new coil. MSD blaster 2. As this was easier to acquire and for a good price. Still have no spark. Ran a new ground wire from the coil negative to the SMEC #12 pin. Car still just turns over no spark. Jumped the asd still nothing. So at this point I believe the smec has a bad connection. I don't want to be throwing new parts at this car until I know for sure what is going on.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
So rechecked all wiring. Good. Repaired the fusible links with proper wire size ATM fuse holders. Tested for a signal again at the #12 pin of the 14 pin connector. No intermittent ground. Swapped out the SMEC boom car starts and runs great. Thanks NAJ for all of your information and help.
 

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Very Happy to hear the car is running, have fun racing and stay safe.
 
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