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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This is a how-to on converting your fusible links (FL) and relays to a Power Distribution Center (PDC) with maxi fuses and Bosch style relays.
This was done on a 1989 Dodge Daytona TII Manual with AC.

Estimated time required based on skill 4-8 hours.

First make sure you have all the components you will need.
Tools required:
Small pick or circuit tester
Wire strippers
Solder rosin core NOT acid core
Soldering gun 150W-230W+ Do not try to use a 50W pen, it will not work.
13mm socket
10mm socket
1/4" or 3/8: drive ratchet for above
Heat shrink
Electrical tape
Zip ties optional.

Parts required:
PDC from a 90-92 Lebaron--should have 10 Maxi fuse slots, 6 ATM fuse slots, and 7 Bosch relay locations. This PDC also has the battery quick connect and alternator quick connect so you dont have to get anything else or splice 8 ga wires. Make sure you get as much of the harness as possible from the donor PDC. You can use whatever you want from any vehicle, this is just what I found and is very common in junk yards around me. You will need 8 of the Maxi, 1 of the ATM and 4 of the Bosch relays. Try to get all the Maxi fuses and relays when you pull yours so you dont have to buy any more parts. If you get a bare one you will need 4 Bosch relays and 4 40amp Maxi, 1 50amp 1 30amp and 2 60amp if you are using a 120amp alternator. The fuses for the alternator are in series so if you are using a 90amp you would need a 40 and a 50 ect.

Start by removing the upper cover. (See pic below) Looking at the cover's label from left to right you will see the Radiator Fan relay, AC clutch relay, HL motor O/C, HL motor O/C, HL motor power, Fuel Pump (ASD) relay, Starter relay.
Fuses are labeled far left side you have the hazards 20A (not needed) and below that is ignition 20A. Maxi fuses are labeled ABS (empty), Alt 1 60A, Blower motor 50A (not needed), Rad fan, AC 40A, Rear Defrost 50A, fuel sys elect trans 30A (ASD, ECM), Ignition 40A, Park Lamps 40A (Ignition 50A), Headlamp sys 40A (HL), Alternator 2 60A. Next to the fuses labeled in (parenthesis) will be what you will change that fuse labeled to what we will use it for. Make note of the changes on a peice of paper or modify your cover so you know what locations are for your fuses. Slot 1 ABS and slot 3 blower motor should be empty in the end.

Pic of Fuse and Relay diagram on cover

Remove all the fuses and relays that are installed. Remove the lower cover gaining access to the wiring. You will need a small pick or I like to use the end of a circuit tester. You will be removing wires and the pin for what you dont need. This will help to eliminate clutter. There are some wires you will notice that get jumped to the relays. NOTE: If you plan on just using the PDC for converting the FL's only then remove all the wires going to the relays that dont have a jumper to a fuse.....leave those alone. Now assuming you want to use the relays in the PDC, start by removing the yellow and red covers for the connectors. There are 2 tabs underneeth that you can see when you flip the PDC over. This will allow access to the release tabs so we can remove wires. To release the pin you have to lift away the black tab securing it and gently pull the wire out from the bottom. You will need to remove all the wires for the headlamp relays....You have all the needed relays and wiring under the dash cover so we dont need to mess with this. That will clear up a good bit of wiring. The only wire you want is a single wire coming from the output of the fuse for the HL system. Remove the gray cover from the ATM mini fuse slots and the 2 Maxi fuses. Remove the pins for the Hazard fuse as we wont need this either. Last remove the wires and pins from slot 3 Blower motor as we wont be using this. Now seperate the remaining wires you have left into 3 groups and wrap a little electrical tape around the bunches. Take the wires coming from the Maxi fuses and bunch them together, should be 5 wires. Do the same for the wires on the rad and ac fan relays. Last bunch is the ASD fule pump relay and starter relays. That should leave you with the 2 10ga wires for the alternator, and 3 bunches.

Now pop the hood. Remove you positive battery terminal from the post of the battery for safety. Locate the quick connect on the battery (black connector) and alternator (Natural or white connector) and disconnect them both. Locate the starter relay, Rad fan, ASD and AC relay. Unbolt all the relays from the fender and strut tower using your 10mm socket. Now on the engine side of the passenger strut tower locate the bracket that the clutch cable mounts to and remove the 2 nuts securing it with your 13mm socket. This will allow us to get the main harness up higher so we have an easier time working on the wiring. There is a single wire going to the Master cylinder/proportioning valve. This has to be disconnected or the harness wont move more than an inch. Lift the harness up and over the studs that your cluch cable bracket was attached to. You will want to remove the coverings from the harness, most harnesses will have rotted a bit so remove all the flaking friction tape, and electrical tape from the FL's all the way to our relays. We will button that up when we are done so its nice and neat.

What Ive noticed from mother Mopar is that alot of the wire colors labeled on wiring diagrams are not always correct, sometime they are dirty, faded, or just plain wrong. Keep this in mind. From the battery quick connect, follow the 8ga wire down until you see where it splits to all the FL's. You should have one black wire on the back side without a FL and 6 other FL's on the front side. Now for the wiring.

The alternator FL and the AC, Rad relay dont need to be rewired. So that leaves us with 4 FL and a the branched off FL for the ECM and ASD. My car did not have a FL for the ASD and ECM because the moron before me decided to hardwire them with twist nuts.....but I will tell you how to wire it. Once we have spliced our connections from the FL harness to the PDC we can remove the FL harness and get it out of the way.

You should be familiar with splicing and soldering, what we will be doing is cutting the wire at the FL on the harness side (not the battery side), stripping about 3/4" of insulation off of the wire on the harness and the same length off the wire going to the PDC. Put some heat shirink (about an inch) on the wire for the PDC side and slide it up and out of the way so it doesnt get hot and shrink. Make an "X" with the wires and wrap each wire around the other. Please google search if you are not familiar with a "western union splice". Once you have made your splice apply solder to the wire, NOT THE SOLDERING TIP, until you have coated the wires. NOTE on a properly soldered connection will see the strands of wire through the solder, if you cant see the strands, you have used too much solder. Slide your heat shrink around the connection and apply some heat to shrink the tubing.

Here is what you will be splicing from the harness in your car to the harness for the PDC. Wire colors could vary so pay attention to where the wire is going to verify the color is correct for your application!!
1. Gray FL Black/red wire (defroster)
2. Gray FL Red/wh wire (Headlamp switch)
3. Gray FL Pink/bl wire (ignition sw 50A)
4. Orange FL Red wire (ignition sw 40A) branches to (number) #5
5. White FL Red wire (16ga) to ECM and red wire (12ga) to ASD, this splice will go from the ASD ECM fuse directly to the ECM red wire only. You dont need to worry about the red ASD wire since its jumped in the PDC.
Green FL Black wire to Alternator (no need to splice) this has its own connector from the PDC
Orange FL Gray wire AC and Rad fan relay (no need to splice) This has a 12v from the PDC and jumps directly to the relay you aqre using.

Take these wire listed above and splice them to the wire for the fuse in the PDC. Alot of the wires were either the same color or very close, so just trace the one you think back to the PDC and verify before you splice it. Do these one at a time so you dont get them confused. Now that you have your FL's out of the way and converted to fuses its time to work on the relays.

Start with the starter relay so we can get the old FL harness out of the way. This is the old type of relay we are converting. You should only have a single black wire coming from the back side of the FL harness going to the starter relay. Cut it anywhere you see fit and get the FL harness out. That wire is already a jumper in your PDC going from the starter relay 30 pin to the ignition fuse. Unplug the starter relay from the connector. There is a blue clip blocking access to the release pins (see pic below), gently push in and up to release each side and slide it up and out. Remove the brown wire from the old starter relay connector and the brown wire for the new starter relay in the PDC and put this in its place. This will leave you with a Brown/yellow and a Yellow/Black. Remove the yellow black from the starter relay clip and the double yellow from the PDC,plug the Yellow/Black from the old relay into the spot you just removed the double yellow. Last is the Brown/Yellow, you will have to splice this to the Brown/blue coming out of the PDC for the starter relay. It is too short otherwise. You are done the starter relay now.

Blue clip for starter relay connector

Now for the ASD relay. It is already a Bosch style relay but we want to move it to the PDC. The red wire is not needed because it has a jumper in the PDC. Now you have 3 wires left. D green/black, Dark blue/yellow, Dark blue/white. You have to take the black clip (see pic below) off to access the release clips for the pins and wires. This is located on the opposite side from the relay release on the connector. Push them in and up to remove it. Now remove the pin on the Dark green/black wire on the ASD connector and the same color wire for the ASD relay in the PDC. Replace the wire you pulled from the old location and plug it into the new location. Now remove the last 2 wires from the old connector and splice them with the last 2 wires of the same color from the PDC and the ASD relay is finished.

Push in and up on both sides as shown
After pushing up it will look like this


Now we are going to do the AC clutch and Radiator fan relays together since they share connections (see pics below). First we have to unplug the relays from the connectors and harness. Once that is done there are covers on the connectors we must remove to gain access to the retaining clips so we can extract the pins and wires. The rad fan relay has 3 yellow or white clips (old relay type) and the AC relay (Bosch style) has a black cover. Remove them like before pushing in and up at the same time until they are released. Now the gray wire can be removed from both connectors and tossed, we have a jumper in the PDC already so we dont need them. Next are the green wires, remove them from the Rad fan and AC relays. Now remove the green wires in the PDC and place the green wires from your harness into the PDC, location is not important as they serve the same function. Now the Blue/Pink and Blue Orange wires can come out of the old connectors and one by one remove the same color wire from the PDC and replace that wire with your wire from the old connector. Now you have 2 wires left. Take your blue wire from the Rad Fan connector and put heat shrink over the end. We dont want this to ground out but we also dont need it for the conversion. I dont see any need to cut this when its not being modified, just heatshrink it and set it aside. Your last wire is the Blue/black from the AC relay, remove this from the old relay connector, then remove the Blue/Black from the PDC and plug your old wire into the PDC. You should have 2 wires left in your PDC, an all Blue wire 12ga and a red/white or red wire. Cut these short so they hang inside the PDC and put heatshrink on them so they dont make contact with anything inside the PDC. These wires have a jumper on them from other relays and fuses so we cant remove them. Now you are done all your wiring!
Pic of the Rad fan L and AC relay R
Pic of yellow clip you have to remove

Wiring compete!!

Make sure you have soldered all connections and put heatshrink tubing over them. Look twice if need be! We are going to test your work before we get the harness made up again to amke sure there are no problems. If you did this just as the how-to states you wont have any problems as long as you didnt make any errors rushing. Put your covers back in the PDC, 2 yellows, red, gray. Replace the relays, some have a pin so they only fit certain locations, and replace your one 20A ATM mini fuse, and your 8 Maxi fuses. Use the rating I specified earlier, no more, no less. Plug in your alternator connection and PDC to battery connection, then hook up your battery terminals. Now verify you have interior lights and that your horn works. Flip on your headlamps and check the running lights. Key on the ignition, verify that your accessories work (radio, cluster, blower motor, trip nav if equipped, rear defroster if equipped, ect). Now start your engine, this will make sure the starter relay is functioning and that the ASD relay is correct. Now turn your AC on fan on to test the AC clutch and rad fan relays. If you have AC it should blow cold as usual and the radiator fan should come on, verify the fan is on to be safe. Now the final test is just a loaded test, turn all the accessories on in the car, blower to max, defroster, headlamps, fogs, and radio to a safe volume. You should be around 13V since your alternator is working, and should not have blown any fuses. Nothing should be warm in the PDC or in your harness, no relays should be hot either. If anything has been sitting in the sun take that into account. If everything works fine as it should go ahead and disconnect the PDC to battery connection and alternator connection once you remove your battery terminals.

Take a deep breath, you are almost done! Now if you did this properly you have your wires routed from each area of the harness to the PDC so they are somewhat neat. Now you have to cover the harness like your factory harness was. I used zip ties to hold the harness together in spot where the wires spread out, then I wrapped the wires with electrical tape to protect them. Finally I used some friction tape so if the harness moves along bolt heads, metal, plastic or whatever, it wont be abraided and cause a short.

Push the harness down, once it is ready, where it runs below the clutch cable bracket and secure the 13mm nuts. Now reconnect the lead going to the brake Master cylinder. You can replace the 10mm bolts that secured the relays if you want the holes covered or if you didnt get the bracket for the PDC. Connect your alternator (white) connector, your PDC to battery (black) connection, and your starter connector (2 wires). Reconnect your battery terminals and you are done!! Dont forget if you havent already to label your PDC for the locations of the fuses. Not that the FL's were labeled but it is nice to have, atleast they were color coded.

Obviously the PDC takes up more room than the FL's and relays did but if you need to replace a relay or fuse it is very easy, quick, and cheap. Now you have some additional spots in your PDC for anything you want to add. You can add foglamps if you didnt have them and there is a spot for a fuse. You can add relays since you have 3 spots open. Just keep some of the wires you removed for future use and adding a relay or fuse will be easy. Enjoy your PDC and a clean engine bay!!

Before
After
Ignore the 3 wires hanging there, I am doing some custom headlamp upgrades which I will post about later.

Custom Fuse cover I made.

If you want to only convert the starter relay and Radiator Fan relay to a Bosch style relay, grab 2 connectors from your local junk yard. You could use the ASD and AC clutch relays from one car. On the back of the Bosch relay you have pins numbering 30,85,86,87. Remove the wires from the relay, and the wires on your original connectors and insert them into the appropriate locations on the Bosch connectors.
Starter relay
Brown 87
Black 30
Brown/yellow 85
Yellow/Black 86
Radiator Fan relay
Gray 30
Lt Green 87
Dk Blue 86
Dk Blue/Pink 85

Enjoy!! Dodge2004srt4
 

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Excellent idea!

Thank you for the blow-by-blow, I will be putting this thread to use in the future!

Question though; how did you make the custom fuse cover diagram?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Excellent idea!

Thank you for the blow-by-blow, I will be putting this thread to use in the future!

Question though; how did you make the custom fuse cover diagram?
Used one art program to letter the cover and paint to color pixel by pixel the backround because it was not black it was a brownish gray. I touched up the white outlines in paint also. Took me about 2 hours to modify the cover and 2 hours to write the how to.

I can easily modify mine if you need or would like one.

Chris.
 

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Very nice! The guide is easy to read and follow. I have been tolerating annoying electrical issues (clean harness) that i can't put a finger on, so this is a great motivator to boot the nasty links. ( I Don't trust em anyhow)

This should be a sticky! :nodding:
 

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Second the sticky motion!

I plan to do this mod when I pull the engine and tranny for overhaul next year; also planning to repair/rebuild the harness, and delete some of the "extra" plugs and wire Ma Mopar left in the bay.
 

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Hey thanks for posting this

I was thinking of asking how just last night you have excellant timing

now as I go out I'm gonna toss a printed copy in the car as I go by - for use later

again thanks!!
 

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Yay, STICKY!

Heading to U-rob it to look for a PDC and harness...planning on doing a lot of de-pinning to do this, just to keep the number of splices down. Anyone know a place to get new color coded wire from? I would like to do a complete re-wire of the engine bay when I do the Resto-mod in a few years.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Its only 7-9 wires you have to splice, unless you have the right pin types you wont be able to make a whole new wire. Getting the pins apart at the wire are nearly impossible. Plus you will be taking apart alot of the harness which will add alot to install time.

TXL & GXL Automotive Wire

Only place I see a large selection of wire but none have color coded tracers.

Ill Keep looking...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
BTW guys, I was getting 30-31MPG before and now Im up to 33.4 MPG mostly stop and go. Maybe its from better voltage distribution and less loss but Im not even done the first tank, still have 100 miles to go. 220 miles down.

Chris.
 

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Got the PDC today, spent the extra time to un-pin some of the leads from their respective connectors.

When I mentioned re-wiring the harness, I am planning to re-do most of the engine bay. Yes, I know it will take quite some time, but once I tear this thing down for the resto-mods, time is one thing I will have! I have access to the terminals, and some of the weather-pc connectors. What I need is the properly coded wire.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Eh, most of the wires are coded differently then what is listed in the wiring diagrams anyway, as long as you get the color the same you could just ignore the tracer. Some of the wires will be a different color in the PDC from what is in your car, I think they were cheap and used what they had available cause I know for fact every single wire in my 2004 SRT-4 was coded identical to the service manual. I have the wiring manual and never had to figure things out tracing wires cause they listed a orange/yellow and all I could see is a green/red and a black/white.
 

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Word of advice; when pulling the PDC from the donor car, just disconnect the 50 pin bulkhead connector and pull the whole harness. With patience, it'll give you a better finished product, with little to no signal loss/voltage loss due to increased resistance at a splice.

And lots of wire, too...
 

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PDC conversion is complete! Car even starts quicker now...plus the FL's were pretty close to getting toasted, lots of cuts in the sheathing, etc. Glad I went ahead and did this!
 

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Chris I know what the problem with my rad fan setup is; the wiring changed from 90-on...mine was already a Bosch setup...crap, now I need pics of an unmolested harness....
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Chris I know what the problem with my rad fan setup is; the wiring changed from 90-on...mine was already a Bosch setup...crap, now I need pics of an unmolested harness....
I know my ASD and either the Rad or AC relay were both Bosch in my 89. Let me see what I can do. No luck on getting a pic, I would have to tear apart the whole harness to even see in there. The harness runs right under those 2 relay locations. Take a pic of yours the way its put in the PDC and verify the relays are correct. They have plastic pins so they can be mixed up along with the 4 terminals. Lets see what colors you have put where and how they are jumped. Sounds like you have a jumper wire missing in your PDC. Green and gray both jump from relay to relay.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
There's no grey jumper, which I believe is the problem.
Grey should go from the fuse and jump to the AC relay and then jump over to the Rad fan relay.

Lt Green just goes from one relay to the other and off to supply power to the Radiator fan motor. Power feed is off the grey for both relays. Blue black and blue orange are controls on AC, and blue, blue pink are the controls on the Rad fan.

Just send me a pic or write out what you have and Ill tell you if its wrong or how to fix it. Ex. fused jumper to 85 green wire on AC relay, 86 blue, ect.

ALSO!!!!! Are you using the mini fuse 20A ignition in your PDC? If not than if I recall correctly that is more than likely your problem. I really need you to mark your wires right now and send me a pic. If you are familiar with the pin numbers on the relays right it out.
87 Color wire
85 Where it goes, harness, jumper to XxxxX, other fuse, ect
86
30
Looking under the PDC will be like looking at the relay from the ass end. Just grab a spare so you dont get the pin numbers mixed up and send it to me. I can tell you whats wrong. Something just doesnt add up.

Also need to know if the fan comes on when AC is turned on, or if it comes on when the engine gets too hot, or not at all.
 

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I'll get pics up to you tomorrow, too late and dark to get them right now. The mini 20 fuse is not being used, there was nothing to connect it to...should I have cut out the FL from the ignition? (I don't recall that one being covered)

What really sucks is I tossed all the wiring that I pulled from the PDC...gonna hit the Hobby shop and see if it's still in the dumpster...if not, guess I'm heading to the JY next payday!
 
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