Are you running a restrictor? Otherwise its not really a good idea. Controlling temperature is only one reason why you need a thermostat/restrictor. You need coolant pressure in the block to help stop boiling around hot spots.
my friend running 498hp did this years ago and has never had trouble not running a thermostat. it DOES heat up to running temps, its just controlled by the fan now instead of a thermostat. also, it seems to heat up in the same amount of time as it did with a thermostat on the old system.
How about using a 90 degree thermostat housing on the transmission side of the head for a #4 cooling mod, block off the normal thermostat housing, and using a 90 degree thermostat housing on the block with a temperature sensor bung?
If you have an electric fan, and an intercooler in front of your radiator, you do not need a thermostat. If the fan isn't on, you're only losing a small amount of heat though actual radiation. We've been running reverse flow for a few years, and the car doesn't take any longer to heat up.
All of the pressure in a cooling system is caused by heat expansion. The design of every TD water pump(and most likely any W/P) make it impossible to create positive pressure. All the W/P is for , is to push the coolant through everything.
The #4 coolant mod is obsolete if you reverse flow.
You don't need to be able to machine aluminum, just be able to weld it. Our first block bung was a scrapyard elbow welded to a piece of aluminum plate, surfaced with a file and a belt sander.
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