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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First of all I recently lost my job so I havent been driving that much.I took the shadow to the store this morning and when i pulled in my driveway i smelled burning oil which is odd because this car leaks nothing.I popped the hood and this is what i found.





Is this an easy fix?
Thanks in advance
Brendan
 

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First of all I recently lost my job so I havent been driving that much.I took the shadow to the store this morning and when i pulled in my driveway i smelled burning oil which is odd because this car leaks nothing.I popped the hood and this is what i found.





Is this an easy fix?
Thanks in advance
Brendan

EZ if you know what you are doing (mechanically). not so EZ if you're clueless. get new one, press in with both surfaces clean and dry. use no sealer or RTV
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I just popped it back in.There was pressure due to me not routing my pcv system right. Thanks anyways guys.
 
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r u sure thats it cause I popped mine back in and it was fine then under boost it popped back out then I sealed it (dont remember what I used) and now under boost my pvc elbow blows off completely
 

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90 Daytona Shelby, 96 Jeep XJ, '13 300C
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I just had mine blow out Friday night. Cleaned up the area well and popped a new one in with a big socket and a soft blow hammer in about 5 minutes. It took longer to clean up all of the oil that got blown everywhere. :rolleyes:

It looked like the old one was just, well, old. The plastic or whatever it was was in rough shape. Haven't had any trouble with it the rest of the weekend.
 

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First, sorry to hear about your job. I'm sure something else will open up for you though. Keep the faith!
Secondly, it seems there are a lot of people on here having trouble with excessive crankcase pressure and/or blowby. Some basic things to double check when rebuilding your engine: Correct piston clearance; Correct ring end-gap, and stagger; New valve guides and seals; and use common sense break-in procedure. Never use synthetic oil during break-in. Have patience and try to avoid boost during break-in. I myself wire the wastegate open for the first 300 miles, just so that I don't have to keep an eye on the boost gauge. Vary the RPM's-don't cruise at a steady speed in the same gear for any length of time. Don't let it idle. Don't shut it off hot- cool it down first.
After 500 miles change oil & filter. I always check the compression and log it down. You're good to go.
 

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buy a new cap, the rubber and metal shrink down and they get smaller in diameter. Clean with carb cleaner, no oil. if 89 and newer you can pull the valve cover without dealing with glueing it back on. Pull the one cap, clean it and glue in the new one. Remember most silicone doesn't actually seal oil. There is a grey permitex that says extreme oil retention, then it won't leak. Wait till an hour atleast before starting it. That is a splash cap, not presurized like the bearings. Car should be ok.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I don't believe that for a minute. You claim to be an experienced TD owner and post the simplest question in despiration. Get real:bash:
Well this post completely solved every problem with both of my cars.You seriously need to stop stirring the pot.I do know my way around a car seeing as i have never gone to a mechanic and my cars run pretty good (as far as a low budget TD build goes) Can I ask you something? How did you learn about all the stuff you know? Did you ask questions? I bet you did:wink: And i have never claimed to be an experienced TD owner.If you have nothing positive to add to this thread please don't post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
First, sorry to hear about your job. I'm sure something else will open up for you though. Keep the faith!
Secondly, it seems there are a lot of people on here having trouble with excessive crankcase pressure and/or blowby. Some basic things to double check when rebuilding your engine: Correct piston clearance; Correct ring end-gap, and stagger; New valve guides and seals; and use common sense break-in procedure. Never use synthetic oil during break-in. Have patience and try to avoid boost during break-in. I myself wire the wastegate open for the first 300 miles, just so that I don't have to keep an eye on the boost gauge. Vary the RPM's-don't cruise at a steady speed in the same gear for any length of time. Don't let it idle. Don't shut it off hot- cool it down first.
After 500 miles change oil & filter. I always check the compression and log it down. You're good to go.

Thanks but the motor has never been apart i paid $500 for the car already slightly modded.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
buy a new cap, the rubber and metal shrink down and they get smaller in diameter. Clean with carb cleaner, no oil. if 89 and newer you can pull the valve cover without dealing with glueing it back on. Pull the one cap, clean it and glue in the new one. Remember most silicone doesn't actually seal oil. There is a grey permitex that says extreme oil retention, then it won't leak. Wait till an hour atleast before starting it. That is a splash cap, not presurized like the bearings. Car should be ok.
I may just do that.Thanks :thumb:
 

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I also learned by asking questions. Lots and lots of questions. I built a 440 last summer and i was 15 then. Seems like a legit question. He wanted to make sure everything was ok.
 
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