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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Last night I ported my upper intake to accept a 58mm TB, installed it this morning, I had a leak that would idle around 3k rpm, fixed that and don't hear anymore leak (sucking sounds). The car idles around 1750rpm when warm, I reused the 52mm TPS and AIS since the others are not usable off the 58mm.

Only things I didn't do was reset the computer (trying it now and will test in a little while).

Will I have to set base timing again since i've ported the intake. All I did was the 58mm opening, I have not done the ridges yet due to time.

TIA!
 

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I would guess that you need to use the AIS that came with the 58mm... If you seal the front of the TB, does the engine stall? If not you have a vacuum leak elsewhere... (becareful if you attempt this, 20+ inches Hg is a lot of vacuum! It can pull hard on your hand...)
 

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There is usually an idle adjustment screw on the throttle bodies and would assume that would need to be adjusted, especially since its been moved to a different engine/air intake.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I would guess that you need to use the AIS that came with the 58mm... If you seal the front of the TB, does the engine stall? If not you have a vacuum leak elsewhere... (becareful if you attempt this, 20+ inches Hg is a lot of vacuum! It can pull hard on your hand...)
well, hooked the battery back up, started the car, it started to idle about 1250-1500 rpm, from there I tried your hand trick and it idled low but would not stall, still couldn't hear a leak, so I started to inspect, all I could find is that the throttle body gasket wasn't fully compressed (those TB gaskets don't do much coverage as is) so I bolt it down a bit more and idle droped down to about (750-900 engine still cold) and then one more hand check and the engine just about stalled! I should put my stomach in there for free lypo!!

I looked at the AIS last night and the connector was different size but maybe you can still get the original connector to fit. The pintle is the same length and size though also making it interchangable. So now I have a spare 52mm to sell soon!

Of course this is all during my lunch hour as I'm typing this. Can't wait to see how the tona goes after work!

Thanks!
 

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Does your Daytona have a manual or auto trans?...When I did this upgrade (my car is an auto trans..604) without any further mods to the intake plenum than needed to get the body on, it did make a noticeable difference to the engines behavior above 5g's. The engine does not *fade away* in the same manner it did with either the 46 or 52mm body. In 1st & 2nd the engine pulls hard and quick all the way to 6grand, and slightly less in third. If you had a manual trans I imagine the difference would be even more noticeable. I find now that when I'm moving along and I stand on the throttle, and the trans downshifts, I run out of engine too soon because I'm on the rev limiter set by the SBEC. :D....
 

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You can find out exactly where that vacuum leak is with a propane torch.

Start the car and let it idle. Open the torch a tad, but don't light it.

Run the nozzle along all the areas where you have gaskets. When the gas gets sucked in, the idle spike up, and there you have your leak.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I may try the propane deal, but after warmup tonight it seems go idle about 850rpm which is fine for me, pulls awesome too with the 5spd manual. I can really do some good one wheel burnouts now!

Can anyone recommend and easy tool for removing the ridges on the upper plenum, I didn't realize they where so deep, I started porting the plenum with 2 diff carbide burrs which was really slow, then tossed on a aluminum-oxide sand stone which tore into the plenum pretty good but still too like 3hrs to get the opening done right. I don't have a drill press unfortunately, only basic electric drill with good speed and torque, and a air compressor with straight and 90* air die grinders which sucks cause of the lil 2hp compressor :(

Would a 4 1/2" angle grinder be good for this, almost bought one at harbor freight a day or two ago.
 

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when I did mine in 2002 I just...spend countless hours grinding with two crappy bits.

The carbide bits I have now are much better...especially if I lube them. i will admit that no matter what, the angle of attack on those ridges is difficult with many rotary tools that use small bits.
 

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Can anyone recommend and easy tool for removing the ridges on the upper plenum, I didn't realize they where so deep, I started porting the plenum with 2 diff carbide burrs which was really slow, then tossed on a aluminum-oxide sand stone which tore into the plenum pretty good but still too like 3hrs to get the opening done right. I don't have a drill press unfortunately, only basic electric drill with good speed and torque, and a air compressor with straight and 90* air die grinders which sucks cause of the lil 2hp compressor :(

Would a 4 1/2" angle grinder be good for this, almost bought one at harbor freight a day or two ago.
With just a 2hp compressor, you might be better off getting an electric die grinder. Harbor Freight has one relatively cheap. You will need to put dimmer switch inline to slow it down. Even then you won't want to run any long shaft burrs.

Combine that with some carbide burrs that are designed for aluminum and a light careful touch... The right burrs will cut through the aluminum MUCH quicker!

Here are couple examples from a company I have ordered from before.

ALUMA BURRS
High Helix Burrs
Fast Cut Burrs
 

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Best tool to remove ridges? A mill....thats what i did lol. Dad works at chrysler....woo hoo gotta love having a mill. I also ended up putting hex screws instead of the phillips plenum screws...dont ask why just did. However i did my old plenum by hand with a rotozip cutting wheel. it worked fairly well.
 

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Angle grinder for the ridges is the way to go. Don't just grind away the center divider though, use a cut-off wheel to trim it down closer first, then grind it flat. You'll save a LOT of time that way.
When I did the intake for my old Spirit, I was able to do maybe 95% of the work with just the grinder. Getting where the ridges blend into the sides was about the hardest part of that.
 

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Yikes!....talk about a *soft* touch......how many of you found your *two halves* didn't feel like separating?..mine didn't, I'd swear they were glued together.
They were. Chrysler used gray sealant to mate the halves together. I highly suggest using the same when you go to put them back together when you're done.
 

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I used the right stuff.

PS

The "nice guys" who p&p'd my plenum left the slot for the divider in place. Jon, the guy who did that, also did not reseal the two halves back together. I had to fix all that later.
 

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Did you use the correct gasket for the TB as they are different?( I think if you look up '00 or '01 3.8L caravan, Napa or Advance Auto should have pics so you can tell the diff if its a special order).

Also you can tell if the idle screw has been messed with before because It should have a cap/plug covering the adjusting torx screw if its not been messed with(because I had to remove that plug to adjust mine, I ended up drilling a small hole then put a screw in it, then used vise grips to yank it out).

From looking at a 46mm and a 58mm the pintle for the AIS was slightly different on mine(may not hurt though), I unscrewed the pintle carefully and swapped them or you could always splice the wires on the AIS if needed(middle wire is signal)
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Did you use the correct gasket for the TB as they are different?( I think if you look up '00 or '01 3.8L caravan, Napa or Advance Auto should have pics so you can tell the diff if its a special order).

Also you can tell if the idle screw has been messed with before because It should have a cap/plug covering the adjusting torx screw if its not been messed with(because I had to remove that plug to adjust mine, I ended up drilling a small hole then put a screw in it, then used vise grips to yank it out).

From looking at a 46mm and a 58mm the pintle for the AIS was slightly different on mine(may not hurt though), I unscrewed the pintle carefully and swapped them or you could always splice the wires on the AIS if needed(middle wire is signal)
I used this gasket: While we find your parts, please enter your ZIP Code at PartsAmerica.com I originally ordered one for a 99 T&C but was really for a 52mm and more expensive. This one at the top gets pretty thin.

I bought my 58mm from cindy at FWDperformance. the caps are still there for the adjustment screws.

I just got back from harbor freight, bought a 4 1/2" angle grinder for $8.99, then a pack of 10 varied sized discs for $6.99. Also picked up a air pressure regulator cause my compressor doesn't have one. So this will probably be me project for the rest of today, yay! Thanks all!
 
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