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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
90 daytona es 2.5 turbo

making 301 wtq at 17 psi

523 5 speed manual transaxle (unknown mileage and condition)

bought 4 puck ceramic clutch and yellow "Extreme HP" pressure plate from turbosunleashed. Cost $375 + s/h

this thread will document the installation and performance of this clutch

so the pressure plate and clutch disc arrived and seem to be okay.

Chris from TU called me and informed me that this particular setup is more sensitive than stock to input shaft bearing wear which can cause the clutch disc to wobble, which can cause it to not disengage fully and/or grab unevenly and cause the disc to warp leading to premature failure.

He mentioned how on another thread on another forum someone had shimmed the input shaft bearing to solve this problem.

According to my FSM, this is a standard procedure. Without having done it yet, my understanding of it is as follows:

Once you have access to the transaxle input shaft, which is exposed once the transaxle has been removed from the car, you can reduce endplay by remove the input shaft seal retainer (three bolts) and changing the thickness of the shim. This shim is basically a thin washer. Many sizes are available from chrysler. I'm pretty sure this shim controls the space between the input shaft bearing and its cup, so a thinner shim = less endplay.

There is a procedure listed in the FSM for measuring the existing endplay and determining exactly what shim thickness is required to eliminate it.

These shims were not in stock at my local dealer and none of the transmission shops I called sold anything like this. The dealer said they would take a week to get here. Problem is I wont know what size shim I need until I have the transaxle out of the car. This is my only car and I can't have it non-operational for a week while I wait for shims.

So I went to the dealer and bought one of every size shim. They are about $3 each and there were quite a few, so this ended up being about $100. I asked if I could return the ones I didn't use and they said yes.

Note that some of the shim sizes are no longer available. And some of them are no longer available individually, but are part of a "shim kit" which was about $13. So I ordered every individual shim I could get and then the shim kit.

I also ordered the input shaft seal retainer ($46) and the seal ($13).

So I am waiting for the shims and other parts to arrive and then I will try to get everything installed.
 

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You shuold try to measure the input shaft play be before tearing out the shaft. Say you have .010 play than you would add a .012 shim as I think the bearing preload is .002. I may be wrong about the preload but since you have the FSM you can look it up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
shimming this particular bearing does not require removing the input shaft or disassembling the transmission. it is performed inside the bellhousing.
 

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the imput shaft seal retainer comes with the seal, btw. Very curious about this, as my 6puck from Chris chatters quite a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
picked up all the parts from the dealer today (shims, seal, retainer)

removed transaxle

took me 2.5 hours

everything went very smoothly except the last step which was actually sliding the transaxle out. that step alone probably took 45 minutes. tips to make this faster next time:

transaxle should slide towards drivers wheel and then tilt foward and fall, i think.
bobble strut must clear its subframe mount
outside shift lever which points to the rear of the car must clear control arm
its helpful to have both a strap supporting the transaxle form a bar across the engine compartment and a jack under the transaxle when pulling it out

here is the exact procedure i used. note that i have a non-stock intercooler setup so on a stock car things would be different (airbox, etc.. maybe other things too)

manual transaxle removal procedure (A523, 1990 daytona es 2.5 turbo)


jack left and right up on jackstands
point wheels straight
remove wheels (3/4" socket and impact wrench)
remove halfshafts
remove cotter pin (needle nose pliers)
remove lock cap, wave washer
remove big nut (32mm socket and impact wrench)
remove knuckle bolt and nut (18mm long wrench, 1/2" 15mm socket and short extension w/ impact wrench)
swivel sway bar mount caps out of the way (1/2" 15mm socket, short ext, 1/2" ratchet, 3/8" 15mm deep, 3/8" non ratchet)
place large oil catch pan under transaxle, oil will pour out when halfshafts are pulled out
using crowbar, push DOWN on control arm to pop knuckle out of control arm
remove turbo scoop (10mm, 3/8" socket)
remove intermediate shaft (3/8" ratchet, 15mm deep and short extension)
remove starter to block bolt (3/8" non ratchet + 15mm socket to loosen, then 3/8" ratchet to remove)
remove tranny to block bolt near starter bolt (1/2" 15mm socket + extension, 1/2" ratchet)
remove lower rear tranny bolt (1/2" 18mm, extension, ratchet)
remove lower front tranny bolt (1/2" breaker bar with 3/8" adapter to 18mm, then 18mm deep and 3/8" ratchet)
remove lower bellhousing cover screw (10mm ratcheting wrench)
remove air filter tubing (long flat head)
remove hot intercooler tubing (2nd clamp from turbo outlet, clamp after BOV toward intercooler, 10mm deep ratchet wrench all extensions)
remove starter nut and bolt (battery side) (15mm socket and breaker bar, then 15mm deep socket and 3/8" ratchet)
slide starter out of transmission
disconnect reverse plug
disconnect harness wiring snap clip from transaxle
disconnect shift cables and pull out of retainers (long skinny screwdriver, channel lock pliers)
disconnect clutch cable and pull out of transaxle (long philips)
remove upper front motor mount to transaxle bolt (15mm w/ breaker bar then deep 15mm and ratchet)
support transaxle with strap and bar across top of engine compartment
remove transaxle to transaxle mount bolts
remove transaxle mount to chassis bolt
remove transaxle mount
remove two upper transaxle to block bolts
transaxle should be slid out towards the drivers wheel
bobble strut must clear its bottom mount (try jacking transaxle up and then sliding it out a bit to clear bobble strut mount)
transaxle outside shift lever must clear control arm
heater hoses must not snag under transaxle
use the jack and strap to get the transaxle at the right angle to pull out
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
i was reading the FSM procedure for input shaft bearing end play adjustment tonight. It mentions "inserting the input shaft" at some point. I'm wondering if this can really be done without taking apart the transaxle.

For the record, it says that the required shim is determined as follows:

"The shim required for proper bearing end play is the total of the gauging shim thickness, plus end play, minus (constant) end play of .002"

it then says

"To veryify that a preload condition DOES NOT EXIST, measure the input shaft turning torque and make sure its less than 5 in. lbs"

So apparently you are not supposed to preload the input shaft bearings on a 523.

So am I reading this right in that the FSM is basically telling you to set the endplay to 0.002"?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
the dealer printed me out a list of part numbers for the input shaft bearing shims.

this is for a 523 manual 5 speed in a 1990 daytona es 2.5 turbo.

OTHER PARTS ON THESE LISTS MAY NOT MATCH YOUR TRANSMISSION, **OR** THE 523 LISTED ABOVE. I think the dealer printed out the parts list for another tranny of the same year, but the shim P/N's appear to be correct.

i also ordered both the input shaft seal retainer (comes with seal) and the seal itself. the retainer/seal was $41.92 p/n 4531847 and the seal seperately is p/n 4797329 at $12.60.

also, I bought the little rubber washer on the intermediate shaft, p/n 5212964, $ 2.94

and I bought one of the SHORT of the three bolts holding the tranny to its mount, p/n 6504011 $4.88

not ALL of the shims listed were available, but most were. if somebody asks i'll make a list of exactly which ones came through. turns out I needed the 0.048" shim and it was available.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
okay i installed the 4 puck ceramic clutch with yellow pressure plate

i shimmed my input shaft, it had about 0.010" of endplay and now it has about zero. my dial indicator setup is not very accurate. basically you measure the endplay, then take off the seal retainer and replace the shim with one that is the endplay amount thicker. this is not EXACTLY what the FSM says to do. the FSM says to keep about 0.002" of endplay and I think it expects you to have the transmission apart when you do this. i did not.

oh and btw I installed a freshly refurbished flywheel from partsamerica.com, p/n 3402, $59.99 + $40 core. it was not exactly the same as the flywheel i took out. it had more material on the backside of it, quite a bit, maybe 5+ lbs? oh well.

i also installed the new throwout bearing that came with the TU clutch package. it was much beefer looking than the sachs throwout bearing. but its spring clips dont fit exactly in the arm it mounts on. i had to bend them outwards a bit to fit, but it seems okay.

first drive impressions:

pedal is slightly harder to push. but i would definitely say that anyone complaining about a leg workout is a WUSS. its really not that much harder than stock AT ALL.

if there is anything about this setup that makes it hard to drive around town, its the extremely grabby nature of the clutch. 1st gear chatters a bit, 2nd LOCKS...perhaps in a few weeks i will have adjusted my clutching style to accomodate this. i would say its a minor annoyance and definitely has RACE PARTS written all over it, which is what i expected and is kinda fun.

i havent really pushed this clutch hard yet because im breaking it in. but i did a couple hard shifts at WOT from 1st to 2nd, and it sure does feel like what I wanted it to feel like. WHAM you have just connected the engine to the transmission and you AINT compromising. makes me worry if the mounts and tranny are going to eat it now that they have to see the full brutal torque of the engine so abruptly. cant wait to see how many gears i can get wheel spin in...

so in conclusion, i feel like i got what was advertised.
 

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I figured out how to measure my endplay today. My trans has a .034" thick shim, and I have .014" endplay so I am goign to see if they still sell the .046" shim so i can get down to .002" endplay.

I used the dial caliper stuff that came with my cam timing kit :D

I might need a different part number because I have the large imput shaft trans but maybe not. Hopefully your part numbers are enough :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
well I happen to have a 0.46" shim left over so I know they still sell it, at least for the 523. let me know if you want it.
 

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a543 here. I have an old style and a new style of our trans (89 vs 92's) so i could pull the 89 apart to see if the diameters are the same but i sorta guess they are the same already.

I definitely would like to have it if you can mail it to me asap. Mail from CA probably takes less time then the dealership! That would probably mail in first class right?
My email is [email protected] and I can paypal if needed.
 
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