I would think the freeze plug would be a week link. Thin metal and all. Might be hard to keep sealed . And if for some reason fitting on plug took a good hit it might jar freeze plug or other wise cause a leak.
One more thing is there any other checks u can think of to totally eliminate the LM. I did all the checks and I could here the something clicking inside the power and in doing that there was pw. on the coil & the pump worked which is what I needed to happen. So the computer is bad, or that circuit that turns on the ASD is faulty. that bloody thing has always given me a problem from day one. Anyways thank a lot. Regards. Errol.
This is a rather unrelated post to the 4th cylinder coolant mod but in brief, if you grounded the #17 pin that I told you about in the other thread, and then you had the fuel pump run, power at the coil and at the injector harness, it's a clear indication that the logic module is not giving you a ground. This could only be caused by a poor connection at pin 17 at the logic module or a faulty logic module. The wire is very easy to remove from the logic module connector to check the condition of the silver conductor inside the connector, you simply remove the plastic lock that is inserted between the two rows of wires on the back side of the connector if you have that style connector and then use a sharp pointed tool like a pick to press down the small metal tab that actually holds the conductor in the connector and the wire just slides right out. So yo remove the wire lock first, then use a small tool like a pick to gently push down on the little silver portion that is visible to release the tab of the conductor allowing you to pull the wire out. Picture the silver tab to be like the barb on the end of a fish hook. You have to push the barb down to be able to pull the conductor and its attached wire out of the connector.
If your connector doesn't have the plastic loc between the two rows of wires, then just use the pick to slide the wire out. The little silver connector on the end of the wire is exactly the same as the connector used in the Chrysler radio connector from almost any car of that period, so they are easy easy to find and then just replace if the conductor is broken.
Both the red and blue connector will probably have this little wire lock in place to keep the wires in place. The 'lock' is just a strip of plastic that snaps in place between the two rows of wires. There is a release tab on each side of the connector for the lock. You just press in on the tab of the snap with a pick or other pointed tool like a small screw driver and then push up on the little tab, it will release and the wire lock can then be slid up and away from the connector.
Oops sorry, wasn't too clear. I meant tapping the hole where the freeze plug goes. Not the plug itself. I'm not sure how big the hole is since my turbo line is blocking my view. I have a few BIG taps here at home.
I bought most of my fittings off eBay, from "abad71camaro". His prices are good and he sends them out right away. I did also buy from Summit Racing and Jegs.
There is another thread that you might want to look through, to see how I tapped the freeze plug holes, in the head. If you do try to tap the holes, you will need a shallow tap, for the #1 side, because there isn't much depth.
Yup, I believe Shadow (Rob) also has done this. I've drilled and brazed the core plug at #4 cylinder AND also run the #4 cooling mod as a return (not a feed). Other end is water pump outlet with welded bung. I made 3 of them. One a #6AN, one 3/8" 45° flare, and one a 3/8" hose barb. Ended up using the 45° flare as it looked the cleanest install. Here is a pic.
Sorry I misread. After rereading, it sounds like you were talking about tapping core plug on HEAD. Oh, NEVERMIND... please disregard (lol). If you do this, braze the fitting to the core plug. It is far too thin just trying to tap.
Actually I haven't taken the wire out but i'll do that just to make sure that is what the problem is, if it is ok it's the L.M. I'll let u know. Regards. Errol.
This is very intriguing. How well has any of these mods work? I have an 89' Daytona Shelby, T2 5-speed, bored out and bigger injectors and etc.. pushing 21lbs of boost. We have a heating issue especially when the AC is on. Going 65-70-75 overheating begins. Looking to swap to an aluminum radiator. Car isn't driven much because it a show car. But does get driven from NC to PA for carlisle.
This is very intriguing. How well has any of these mods work? I have an 89' Daytona Shelby, T2 5-speed, bored out and bigger injectors and etc.. pushing 21lbs of boost. We have a heating issue especially when the AC is on. Going 65-70-75 overheating begins. Looking to swap to an aluminum radiator. Car isn't driven much because it a show car. But does get driven from NC to PA for carlisle.
Many people have overheating issues in Daytonas. G-bodies did not overheat from the factory. Make sure you have your chin spoiler on front end. Many were ripped off early in life. You may have sub-par radiator. Don't rule out partially plugged heater core. This WILL cause engine to run warm. You can check this by engaging recirculating valve underhood. This will bypass heatercore.
BTW- None of these 4th cylinder cooling mods have any positive effect on overheating during cruise mode. These mods are used to help control #4 cylinder while under boost.
Many people have overheating issues in Daytonas. G-bodies did not overheat from the factory. Make sure you have your chin spoiler on front end. Many were ripped off early in life. You may have sub-par radiator. Don't rule out partially plugged heater core. This WILL cause engine to run warm. You can check this by engaging recirculating valve underhood. This will bypass heatercore.
BTW- None of these 4th cylinder cooling mods have any positive effect on overheating during cruise mode. These mods are used to help control #4 cylinder while under boost.
THe chin spoiler, is that the front air dam? Or the piece under the radiator? Piece under radiator sounds right, and it is missing on the car. Is there a way to make a new one?
This is very intriguing. How well has any of these mods work? I have an 89' Daytona Shelby, T2 5-speed, bored out and bigger injectors and etc.. pushing 21lbs of boost. We have a heating issue especially when the AC is on. Going 65-70-75 overheating begins. Looking to swap to an aluminum radiator. Car isn't driven much because it a show car. But does get driven from NC to PA for carlisle.
Make sure the t-stat isn't failed open. Had that exact same issue on my 87 ShelbyZ even with a bunch of aero cooling mods to it. When it fails open the coolant doesn't stay in the rad long enough to cool off and the temps start climbing at 65MPH cruise.
As for replacing the factory "air fence" under the rad go to the j-yard, find an 80's to early 90's Chevy S10 without front tow hooks and pull the air dam off it. Take the bolts and everything. Then use those bolts to bolt it to the bottom of the rad support, and mount the corners to the corners of the factory air dam by the wheels. This is pretty much the way the 84-86 turbo Z's were. It helps cooling and front end down-force.
very old pic but gives you the idea
Minivan but tucked up in the corners instead of pulled out like it should be.
Make sure the t-stat isn't failed open. Had that exact same issue on my 87 ShelbyZ even with a bunch of aero cooling mods to it. When it fails open the coolant doesn't stay in the rad long enough to cool off and the temps start climbing at 65MPH cruise.
As for replacing the factory "air fence" under the rad go to the j-yard, find an 80's to early 90's Chevy S10 without front tow hooks and pull the air dam off it. Take the bolts and everything. Then use those bolts to bolt it to the bottom of the rad support, and mount the corners to the corners of the factory air dam by the wheels. This is pretty much the way the 84-86 turbo Z's were. It helps cooling and front end down-force.
very old pic but gives you the idea
Minivan but tucked up in the corners instead of pulled out like it should be.
I would add to the posteres reputation for this informative post but I already did recently and I can't give kudos twice in a row....great information especially since I am a Daytona turbo Z owner.
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