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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I would like to make a thread for the membership on installing a vacuum block on all TD's from 84 -93 with all of the different engines and years.
Show how you installed it, what parts were used and links of where to get the parts needed with pics of the completed job.
Also if you added a CAI show/tell how you ran the lines including PCV for the deleted airbox.

Below will be the index of year/engine and will be listed by post #.

Post #2) 90 T-4 (VNT)
Post #5) 87 T-2
Post #8) 88-89 T-1/T-2
Post #28) 91-93 T-3
Post #33) 84-87 T-1
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
1990 VNT (Daytona, Lebaron, Shadow, Engine Code "C")

From the Vacuum Block you need to connect to the...
Fuel Pressure Regulator
Baro Solenoid
VNT Solenoid #1
Boost Gauge
Purge Solenoid

When re-doing your vacuum system do not forget about the lines from the L/R of the manifold to the cruise and air box.

There is an Orifice on VNT Solenoid #3 right on the port, reuse that Orifice.

The majority of the vacuum line is 5/32" and 7/32".
I used Thermoid brand vacuum line which is thick walled and is availbale in 6' lengths at Advance or in bulk on eBay which is much less expensive in the long run.

The majority of the fittings needed will be a Dorman/Vacu-Tite assortment.
There are a couple of other fittings you will need and can get at Rock Auto.

I removed and switched positions of the Air Charge Temp Sensor and Factory Vacuum Fitting in the manifold to allow more room for the vacuum block.

The vacuum block comes with a tee that would be attached to the manifold port with a rubber line.
I attached mine with Anodized Aluminum Fittings to avoid a larger rubber line that will dry rot/crack/fall apart.

All lines are wrapped with 3/8"/1/2" split wire loom to protect from heat/chemicals/rub thru.
That can also be purchased in bulk on eBay at a lower cost.

ALL connection points need to be secured either using small wire ties pulled tightly to clamp or fuel injection style clamps designed for 5/32"/7/32" vacuum line.
My experiance is that wire ties will become brittle over time and loosen from expansion/contraction.
I used the clamps to be sure that all connections will remain tight.
The VNT is very sensitive to vacum issues so it is crucial all connection points are tight/secure.

I also used "Single Bond Clamps" to tie the lines together for a neater/cleaner look rather than using wire ties which as already stated loosen and break.

PARTS NEEDED

Vacuum Fitting Assortment Dorman/Vacu-Tite 47380
Help/65 pcs. vacuum tubing connector assortment (47380) | Vacuum Connector. Universal Type | AutoZone.com

Rock Auto Parts(Online)
4 Way Fitting Dorman #47357
(needed to install lines to VNT Solenoid #2)
3/16" 90 Degree Elbows Dorman #47413

Clamps (8-9.5mm and 9.5-11.5mm)
Fuel Injection Hose Clamps

Vacuum Block(eBay)
Universal Six Port Boost FPR BOV Vacuum Manifold Block | eBay

Vacuum Line 5/32" and 7/32" (Bulk on eBay)
VACUUM HOSE HI-TEMP 5/32" X 50 FT ROLL - USA MADE - NEW | eBay
NEW ROLL OF 7/32" RUBBER VACUUM LINE HOSE 50 FT ROLL | eBay

3/8" Split Wire Loom (Bulk on Ebay)
40' of 3/8" Split Loom Wire Protector Shielding Harness | eBay

Anodized Aluminum Fittings(Summit Racing)
(Assuming the vacuum block is 3/8" NPT)
You can search the site for different colors.
Two -6 AN x 3/8" NPT
Summit Racing SUM-220648 - Summit Racing® AN to NPT Adapter Fittings - Overview - SummitRacing.com
-6 AN Female 90 Degree elbow.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-at935106erl

DIAGRAMS
90 VNT Vacuum.jpg

90 VNT Solenoid Vacuum.jpg

VACUUM BLOCK AND LINES
abl6vt.jpg

Engine Compartment Front-2014.jpg

Engine Compartment Left Side-2014.jpg

Engine Compartment Right Side-2014.jpg
 

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How close do you guys think this is to a 88 2.2 T1...? I really hate how my vacuum lines are ran and would love to clean up under the hood. Thanks Dan. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
How close do you guys think this is to a 88 2.2 T1...? I really hate how my vacuum lines are ran and would love to clean up under the hood. Thanks Dan. :D
This is why I am looking for detailed descriptions of how the vacuum block/lines were installed.

The VNT uses 4 lines on the turbo(no wastegate) and 3 VNT solenoids on the R/S strut tower/fender.
The T-1 only has 1 wastegate solenoid and 3 lines off the turbo, one of which is for the cruise control system and the pressure line on the turbo feeds the wastegate and wastegate solenoid.

The basics of using a vacuum block and running new lines would be the same although the routing is different.
The turbo set up on a T-1 is totally different than the T-2 and T-4.

88 T-1 Vacuum
88 Turbo 1 Vacuum.jpg
 
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1987 Dodge Daytona Shelby Z TII:

I used:

Zip ties (Temporary, will be going to clamps when car is finished)
7 ft of fuel injection hose
Vacuum Block (From FWDP)

Off my block is:

Boost gauge
Blow off Valve
Fuel Pressure Regulator
Barometer (then from Baro to map sensor)

On my turbo, I have a g-valve between the air source port and wastegate.

The line from the PCV that use to go to the air box now currently just has a small filter, but that's just a temporary setup. Will be installing an oil catch can in between pcv and cold air intake pipe.

 

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Very nice NAJ as always!
 

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This was my '89 ES before I sold it. The clamps weren't installed yet when I took this picture.



The manifold came from McMaster, 5469K22 for the 6 port version and 5469K32 for the 8 port version. Different types are also available with ports on one side only as well as hexagonal one with ports on 3 sides. They also have different hole spacing between the ports, so be careful there as well. The right angle brass fittings are from the local auto parts store, Motormite # 43031 - BE SURE to get these if you choose the manifold with with the port holes closer together, if you get the right angle fittings that have the long leg on the female side you won't be able to the thread them on - they'll hit the adjacent fitting. The nipples are from McMaster # 44555K129 and are for 4.5 mm I.D. vacuum tube. The silicone vacuum tube came from ebay, or some online retailer - I forget, nothing special there. The one tricky part is the fitting on the intake manifold. It's just a simple 3/8 brass right angle street fitting, but the corners have to be sanded/filed down so that it will thread on the manifold.





And I prefer to use the rotor clamps instead of the worm screw clamps. Although I did use worm clamps on the little length of hose between the brass fitting on the intake manifold and the manifold block.

Prospect Fastener Corporation | Cable clamps, Snap rings, Retaining rings, Roll pins

Here is the very similar setup on my '89 Shelby TII, the CAT sensor position was swapped to the stock manifold position and the manifold put in where the CAT sensor was, this allows you to screw the fittings into the intake manifold without doing any mods to the fittings.



The same configuration on a head I built up for a swap/conversion that I never followed through on.





Some little other trick stuff I should add in with my configuration, you pretty much have to build it up on the intake manifold or you run into issues with things hitting each other. First I installed the right angle fitting to the intake manifold, but had ti leave it pointing up, that way the manifold block can be threaded on without scraping up the intake, and so you have room for the wrench to turn. The you can swing the manifold down into position - this applies only to the TII. When building up the manifold block the lower nipple fittings that go straight in are simple, but the right angle fittings are tricky, you start with the one on the right side, thread it in but leave it at least 45° loose from it's final position, this so that when you thread in the next one you have room to turn it without hitting the first fitting - repeat for the rest. After all the right angle fittings are in you go back and give them that last turn so they are straight, starting with the left most fitting. After that you can then just simply thread in the nipple fittings.

TURBO 1


TURBO 2
 

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Thanks for all the info. Quick responses haha. Looks like all this thread needed was a little bump to get a lil more info added. :thumb:
 

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What is the best way to attach a vacuum block to an 86 T1 ?

What kind of fitting will replace the stock fitting that screws into the intake manifold?



Hey ChargedDust, that is one clean vacuum block set up!

Standard hose clamps look really cluttered on vacuum blocks like NAJ's arrangement. Anyone found small tight possibly black anodized clamps.

There must be some kind of clamp that is functional and looks nice too...

What do they use on show cars?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Not sure on an 86 but my factory vacuum fitting is 3/8" NPT so you use the factory with a hose, brass fittings, anodized aluminum. etc.
I never found a spring clamp the was the proper size and the ones I did find did not really secure the hose especially on ports that are not barbed.
The clamps that are on there are for 5/32" and 7/32" ID Vacuum Line.
I am more interested in function than looks in this case.
 

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love the post i got an 87 charger that was all ripped apart and its a puzzle peace just got it running has alot of work done to it kid spent alot of money and never got it running right. i wanna clean up my engine bay. i just got the car running but all the vacum lines are screwed once i hit the gas the car dies wont let me give it gasd but i wanna take all un nessicery stuff out that i dont need i wanna make the engine bay as empty as possible no heat no ac and wut ever else i dont need any sugestions would be great or a diagram ill pay u lol
 

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1987 Dodge Daytona Shelby Z TII:

I used:

Zip ties (Temporary, will be going to clamps when car is finished)
7 ft of fuel injection hose
Vacuum Block (From FWDP)

Off my block is:

Boost gauge
Blow off Valve
Fuel Pressure Regulator
Barometer (then from Baro to map sensor)

On my turbo, I have a g-valve between the air source port and wastegate.

The line from the PCV that use to go to the air box now currently just has a small filter, but that's just a temporary setup. Will be installing an oil catch can in between pcv and cold air intake pipe.

My vacuum block looks exactly like that with the 2 solenoids not hooked up and the 4 lines out. its a modded 2.5 t2 lebaron, i bought it like that, am i going to need to hook up those two solenoids? Thanks, Kyle.
 

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If your computer controls the wastegate you will need to hook that one up, if you have a manual boost controller you won't.

The purge is optional, unless it's needed to pass inspection.
 
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