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four ports on the bottom and one on each end. Same as the one you linked up in regard port quantity. I do like that wrinkle black option on the one you linked up.
 

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Personally, I would avoid the EBAY ones beacuase not all the ports are standard NPT thread. I like the ones from McMaster, you can get them with the ports on 2 sides if you want to keep the size short.

McMaster-Carr
 

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The manifold i found wasn't from Ebay, some small company in MD

im looking to get all my hose now but ran into an issue
the hoe im should be using is 4mm (5/32) and 7/32 (5.5mm)
is 5mm acceptable ?
 

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Discussion Starter #205
I gave everything its own dedicated vacuum line, if you do that you need a port for...
1)Baro Solenoid
2)Wastegate Solenoid
3)Purge Solenoid
4)Fuel Pressure Regulator
5)Boost Gauge

If you are using Rubber Hose to connect the vacuum block to the manifold port the vacuum block will flop around unless you secure it to a harness or such with wire ties.
I attached mine using anodized aluminum fittings, rubber will dry rot/crack/break, aluminum will not.
Using those fittings will also hold the vacuum block steady, you would just need to find a way to support it so it does not move from vibration.
Mine had a flange on it so after attaching the block to the manifold I drilled a hole in the flange and tapped it.
I then cut down and threaded in a battery hold down bolt from a universal holddown until it bottomed out on the head and I used a locknut on top to keep the bolt from backing out.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-220648/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-at935106erl

AutoCraft Universal Battery Hold-Down AC101/A14062: Advance Auto Parts



 

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Discussion Starter #206
Where did you get metric hose?
You could use it in place of the 5/32" if it is not loose on the fittings on the vacuum block or vacuum components.
 

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Where did you get metric hose?
You could use it in place of the 5/32" if it is not loose on the fittings on the vacuum block or vacuum components.
I guess my main question would be does it matter what size im using if im reducing the vacuum system ?

do i need to use 5/32 and 7/32 or can i use something similar
i would assume something similar would be acceptable
 

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Discussion Starter #210
The original factory plastic line was probably only 1/8" ID.
I have not experienced any issues with my setup so I would assume you would be OK as long as the vacuum line you are using is thick walled so it does not "balloon" under boost.
 

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Okay im gonna give it a shot
Bought the manifold today so ill see it wednesday

I was think of mounting it to the firewall the only issue there would be running the main line from the intake manifold to the vacuum block does the extra length mater ?

Sorry for all the questions :confused::confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #212
Do Not be sorry for asking questions, that is how we learn and that is what we are here for.

I was taught 2 things over the years...
1)The only "stupid" question is the one that is not asked.
2)It is easier to answer "stupid" questions that to fix "stupid" mistakes.

I prefer to have the main vacuum line as short as possible because the longer it is the more it will flex which will led to it breaking/cracking as it gets older and is exposed to the heat of the engine compartment.
However, as long as it is clamped securely on both ends the length will not be a factor or prevent any vacuum operated devices from functioning properly or receiving the proper vacuum.
Just keep an eye on the hose and inspect it when you are underhood to be sure it is holding up.
I use convoluted tubing on all of my vacuum lines.
 

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Discussion Starter #214
Convuluted Tubing, Split Wire Loom, Wire Conduit, etc.

It will help protect the vacuum line from rub through, chemical and direct heat damage, environmental contamination, etc.

I also use it on exposed wiring such as the HEP wiring and I also use it on my ignition wires and fuel line underhood.

Dorman makes it and you should be able to find it at your local parts supplier in the electrical section.
It comes in sizes from 3/8" - 3/4" and in different colors depending on what you like.

http://www.autozone.com/starting-charging-and-miscellaneous-electrical/wire-sleeve/dorman-split-wire-conduit/64473_0_0/

 

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I finished installing the vacuum block on my 85 Dodge 600 turbo, on the solenoid so bracket there are four solenoid so and there were eight hose connected and there is a total of twelve nipples there, can anybody post a picture of the solenoid box to see if my connections are right? Also to see how many hoses are supposed to be connected:confused:
 

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Thank you for the info and the picture,I saw that picture before but never paid attention to it, I would like to say that the car starts fine, the ports that are supposed to be open are opened, the block is a seven port unit and I ran a dedicated hose to the map sensor, fuel pressure regulator, turbo waste gate, TBI and the vacuum chamber on top of the egr valve then the last port one hose with seven T connectors along the hose to the solenoid so, we do not have emissions testing where I live, is that ok to do it that way?
 

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Discussion Starter #218
According to the factory vacuum diagram there are 5 components that receive vacuum from the manifold and each has its own dedicated line.
1)Baro Solenoid
2)FPR
3)Wastegate Solenoid
4)EGR Solenoid
5)Boost Gauge
That should leave you with two unused ports on your vacuum block.

 

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Hey can you direct me to the 84 daytona block install plan please? And what would I need to do for a custom race setup? Not to sure what I would need to keep and what I don't thanks
 

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NAJ, thanks for going over this topic.

We have a 88 T2 Shelby Z.
Installed new vacuum block, hoses, clamps ETC. You show in your diagram coming off the turbo with a G valve going to the wast gate. I have it from the block to the solenoid back to the waste gate. Should I change this, and where do I pick up a 12 psi G valve?

Also I see you show the pcv tied into the cold air inlet. We are still using the stock air box, and are dealing with oil pouring out of the air cleaner box.
We use this car for road course racing. So its drived pretty hard. Any words of wisdom?????
Thank you
 
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