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Discussion Starter #221
NAJ, thanks for going over this topic.

We have a 88 T2 Shelby Z.
1)Installed new vacuum block, hoses, clamps ETC. You show in your diagram coming off the turbo with a G valve going to the wast gate. I have it from the block to the solenoid back to the waste gate. Should I change this, and where do I pick up a 12 psi G valve?

2)Also I see you show the pcv tied into the cold air inlet. We are still using the stock air box, and are dealing with oil pouring out of the air cleaner box.

3)We use this car for road course racing.
So its driven pretty hard. Any words of wisdom?????
Thank you
1)My car is all stock.
Which post/pics are you referring to so I can you in touch with the proper members for your G-Valve questions.

2)If you are still using the stock air box, charge piping and PCV system and you are pushing oil out of the air box your issue probably lies with the breather or PCV being restricted.

3)
a)Full Synthetic Engine Oil.
You will hear different opinions but I have been using Mobil 1 exclusively
since 1988.
b)Poly Engine Mounts
c)If an Auto Trans an External Trans Cooler

Depending on what is already on the car and what you are allowed there are probably some suspension and brake upgrades.
I would suggest you open a new thread on that subject.
 

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NAJ,
referring to post #5 for the G valve.
The pcv valve and breather system appears to be fine. New valve, new hoses.
When we run it hard the oil just keeps coming out of the air box.
I just don't understand why this turbo 2 engines had this issue? I am thinking about taking off the fuel pump block off plate and installing a stand pipe with a breather assembly on it.
It has me puzzled.
We do run either Valvoline R1 or Mobil1 with Mobil 1 filter.
Thank you
 

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I would like to make a thread for the membership on installing a vacuum block on all TD's from 84 -93 with all of the different engines and years.
Show how you installed it, what parts were used and links of where to get the parts needed with pics of the completed job.
Also if you added a CAI show/tell how you ran the lines including PCV for the deleted airbox.

Below will be the index of year/engine and will be listed by post #.

Post #2) 90 T-4 (VNT)
Post #5) 87 T-2
Post #8) 88-89 T-1/T-2
Post #28) 91-93 T-3
Post #33) 84-87 T-1
So that's a real good idea NOTE the upgrades on the vacuum lines material and the rubber hoses TO> TEFLON tubing and SILICONE hose With the connectors as well for them made in PVC ,SS ,or Aluminum FOR the T's-Y's-straight - reducers and other clips for connection of LINES and so on ECT.


SUPER COOL IDEA >>> NAJ !!!
mike0007 TD-member!
 

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Hi all!

Please, help me with vacuum lines.

I have got 1992 dodge daytona with 2.5 k-engine, turbocharged with Garrett T-3 turbo.


Vacuum hoses and check valves was fully lost, so i'm trying to rebuild all vacuum system completeness.

There is video of my connection
youtu.be/gGnM8xUU9mA
youtu.be/Mu2MIYO-T4o
youtu.be/LlNbHHzLCc4
please, help me to rebuild this vacuum system :)

i need your advices.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #225
Welcome To TD!!!

I fixed your YouTube video links.
I can look at your issue and try to help later on tonight.




 

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Discussion Starter #226
My suggestion would be to start with what the engine needs to run and once you know that is correct and the car will start and stay running and runs correctly then start running the lines to the emission controls.

1)IMO you should have the vacuum block screwed into the intake manifold rather than using a long piece of hose to connect it to the manifold, just another place to leak.

2)BARO SOLENOID
a)Vacuum Block to Top Port of Baro Solenoid
b)Baro Solenoid Middle Port to the Map Sensor
c)Bottom Port Remains Open

3)Vacuum Block to Fuel Pressure Regulator

That is all you need to have the car start and run.
Be sure all other ports on the vacuum block are plugged, disconnect all the lines from the fitting on the rear of the intake for the Booster, BOV and HVAC and plug the ports on the fitting.

If the car will still not start and run you have other issues that need to be addressed.
 

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Jan, his is one of your best pieces of advice yet!!

Vacuum diagrams can be intimidating to understand but when you list the components that need a vacuum signal it may seem much more clear to many folks.

Thanks
Randy
 

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I've been replacing various vacuum hoses in my 91 Dodge Shadow 2.5L turbo 1 and haven't been able to identify the 1-to-4 way splitter coming off of the intake manifold. I've been told that that specific hose is out of production, so I'd need ideas on how to hook up the hoses to maintain accuracy with the vacuum diagram.

Unfortunately, since I'm a new member I don't believe I can add a link or upload images, sorry.
 

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Discussion Starter #230
I've been replacing various vacuum hoses in my 91 Dodge Shadow 2.5L turbo 1 and haven't been able to identify the 1-to-4 way splitter coming off of the intake manifold. I've been told that that specific hose is out of production, so I'd need ideas on how to hook up the hoses to maintain accuracy with the vacuum diagram.

Unfortunately, since I'm a new member I don't believe I can add a link or upload images, sorry.
Yes, the factory plastic vacuum harness is no longer available.
As this thread is titled, you will need to remove the factory vacuum harness and replace it with a Vacuum Block and Rubber Vacuum Line and Fittings.
You will need to reuse any Factory Orifices and Check Valves that may be in the vacuum system.
(Somebody posted about using bulk poly line that is the size of the factory line but I cannot find the post/thread so I have no idea where they bought it or how they attached it)

You can connect the vacuum block to the manifold vacuum port with a rubber hose or remove the factory vacuum port and use metal fittings.
From the vacuum block you need to run vacuum lines to the...
1)Fuel Pressure Regulator
2)Baro Solenoid
3)Purge Solenoid
4)Boost Gauge (if equipped)

The other lines are just a matter of running new line from point A to point B.

VACUUM BLOCK
Universal Vacuum Manifold Kits 6 Port 1/8 NPT Turbo Boost Block Manifold T8F7 | eBay

91 Turbo 1 Vacuum.jpg
 

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My suggestion would be to start with what the engine needs to run and once you know that is correct and the car will start and stay running and runs correctly then start running the lines to the emission controls.

1)IMO you should have the vacuum block screwed into the intake manifold rather than using a long piece of hose to connect it to the manifold, just another place to leak.

2)BARO SOLENOID
a)Vacuum Block to Top Port of Baro Solenoid
b)Baro Solenoid Middle Port to the Map Sensor
c)Bottom Port Remains Open

3)Vacuum Block to Fuel Pressure Regulator

That is all you need to have the car start and run.
Be sure all other ports on the vacuum block are plugged, disconnect all the lines from the fitting on the rear of the intake for the Booster, BOV and HVAC and plug the ports on the fitting.

If the car will still not start and run you have other issues that need to be addressed.



This applies to a 85 T1? I think I have a vacuum issues causing my engine not to run on its own.
 

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On my OEM vaccum block, we are assuming the order is
Purge, EGR, Wastegate, and MAP solenoids.

Which is the bleed? Which one do I hook up to for vacuum?
If I run a new Vacuum block to I need to keep this OEM block?
 

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Discussion Starter #234
Do you see where the lines are spliced in your second pic?
Splicing the smooth plastic lines into a rubber line is always a problem, it creates points of leakage, either with vacuum/boost or both.

I Googled and found our pic that was deleted.
Someone may have stated that this was not correct and if so maybe they will chime in with the corrections, but in the meantime...

download.jpg
 

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HI all ! I have read several pages (not all) of this ... I am very confident in redoing my vacuum lines thanks to the info you guys have provided. My 88 T1 has a air shut off valve in the air box with a vac line ran to the Throttle body WITHOUT a delay valve.... Where can i get a delay valve ? Or can a cap it off ? Car will be staying at stock boost level.
 

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Discussion Starter #236

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So I just ordered everything I need for a Vacuum Block set up today and plan on building and installing over the next few weeks. As it seems unless I missed it there is yet to be a full walk-through of a T1 Vac Block. So I will do my best to document and take photos of the process of building said Vacuum Block and all the associated lines for it, the issues I faced along the way, What worked and What didn't. Of course this will take me a while to do between the work life and such. So I will keep you posted.
But until then here is my Part List, Experts tell me if I missed anything.

4MM Vac Hose (Should work as equivalent 5/32 Vac Hose)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CTXVU2C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

6MM Vac hose (Should work as equivalent 7/32 Vac Hose)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CTXVTFK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Black Steel Vac Clamps (Should look great with the red vac lines and block)
uxcell Steel Band Clamp 6mm for Fuel Line Silicone Hose Tube Spring Clips Clamp Black Manganese Steel 30Pcs - - Amazon.com

6 port Vac block (Cheap and comes with Prime delivery)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F8KW5X6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

3/8 to 6AN Black Fitting (From Intake to 90 fitting and hopefully from 90 to Vac Block)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BSL5ZWR/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

6AN female to 6AN female 90 degree fitting (hoping to be able to have it run parallel to intake manifold)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XBKXDYB/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s01?ie=UTF8&ps

Dorman 47380 Vacuum Connector Value Pack, 65 Piece
Amazon.com: Dorman 47380 Vacuum Connector Value Pack, 65 Piece: Automotive
 

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Discussion Starter #239
Sounds like you have everything and are prepared, keep us posted on your progress and if you need any info or have questions Please feel free to ask.
 
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