[acannell]

90 daytona es 2.5 turbo

i have a big front intercooler that covers almost the entire front radiator surface

i still have the A/C condenser installed

coolant temperatures hover around the middle of the gauge, which the scan tool says is about 210F

180F thermostat is installed

is this not good enough for high boost? (say 14 psi, assuming AFR and intercooler are all good)

whats a good coolant temperature?

 

[speeduphoria]

You should be OK, the temp gauge is more of a dummy gauge. Rings like ~195, cooler temps means slightly higher performance but a 160deg T stat is not recommended, cooler temps than this can wear the cyls faster.

Your better off watching the Air temp sensor with the scanner(if you have one and the scanner can read it?)

The boost limit/detonation threshold depends more on other things(listed in order for ease of user change) like octane of gas, timing advance, spark plugs, charge air temps and cylinder head temps, among the combustion chamber/piston shape ect.. Sharp edges in the combustion chamber can cause detonation slightly sooner than the same engine that has been worked over.

 

[acannell]

i just installed the charge air temp sensor (did not have it stock) and was eager to read it with my OTC but it doesnt read it! just reads blank. waiting for cindy to give me the scoop on this...

im cut off a junkyard charge temp sensor pigtail and im going to read its resistance directly with my DMM which has min/max and see if i can convert it to temperature and get an idea how how the air is. wow run on sentence

 

[speeduphoria]

im going to read its resistance directly with my DMM which has min/max and see if i can convert it to temperature and get an idea how how the air is.

I know its not the same, but should be similar, near the bottom I posted the air temps/voltages for a GM air temp sensor, heck if you added one of those then your would exact numbers.
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f21/140689-voltage-tables.html

 

[puppet]

You should be OK, the temp gauge is more of a dummy gauge. Rings like ~195, cooler temps means slightly higher performance but a 160deg T stat is not recommended, cooler temps than this can wear the cyls faster.

Your better off watching the Air temp sensor with the scanner(if you have one and the scanner can read it?)

The boost limit/detonation threshold depends more on other things(listed in order for ease of user change) like octane of gas, timing advance, spark plugs, charge air temps and cylinder head temps, among the combustion chamber/piston shape ect.. Sharp edges in the combustion chamber can cause detonation slightly sooner than the same engine that has been worked over.

Just to add a thought ... cylinder head temps have a direct correlation to coolant temps. (chicken or egg thing next) Timing, ignition and cam, can effect chamber temps ... effecting head temps.
OR .. inadequate cooling system not able to cope with an otherwise A-OK timing situation raises head temps.

 

[ZachT]

my temp guage (which is a good autometer ultra light) read my temps at 215 all the time. i have a different fan, 180 degree thermostat, but a large NPR in front of my radiator too. i went with that water wetter and my temps droped to a little below 210 around 205. ive been wondering if its too hot as well, but think im on the norm. my temperature sending unit is in the stock location (head), but maybe the temperature readings will be higher in the head? i looked at my gauge once (after water wetter) and it was reading a stead 200, i let the car idle, then shut it off, i releashed the pressure from the radiator, and i was able to stick my finger in the coolant!!! so maybe its just hotter at the head? idk, ill figure something out. oh----i run 19psi RICH AS A PIG BABY!