[VonKaiser]

First of all I'm new here so hello. Second of all I owned a 1989 2.5L Daytona as my first car--unfortunately a 1985 F350 truck hit me head on and took her away from me. Anyway, I'm in the process of restoring and modifying my Camaro when one of my Fbody club members asked me if I wanted to buy his '88 Shelby Z...FOR TWO HUNDRED DOLLARS. I said yes...naturally. The car itself only has 61k miles on the engine and chassis--but has been sitting for years and years. It needs quite a bit of TLC but I think I can live with it. It needs a clutch, battery, fuses, and a few other minor things to get running again. I pick up the car and trailer it to a safe location next weekend. I'll get some pics up then of the car's cosmetic condition. What bothers me is the sheer lack of replacement parts in good shape on the market. I need the rear bumper+taillights among other things. I'm not looking to change any performance, infact I'm only interested in restoring this to factory spec and using it as my daily driver while I rebuild my Camaro.

I do have a few questions maybe someone could answer.

• What else should I look for to repair/replace to ensure reliability as a daily driver?
• Where would I find the Shelby plaque with the unit #?
• What's one of these run in the ¼mi stock?
• How much boost does the turbo run stock?
• Does it really have 174bhp and 200 torque stock like Wiki says?

Thanks, looking forward to reading your replies. Sorry if this is the wrong forum...its the closest thing I could find.

 

[somebeach]

Sounds like a great deal!

It's not a #'d car unfortunately.

Parts are readily available ~ check local salvage yards, eBay and right here on turbododge.com's classifieds.

 

[Guest]

stock boost is 12psi

 

[VonKaiser]

Sounds like a great deal!

It's not a #'d car unfortunately.

Parts are readily available ~ check local salvage yards, eBay and right here on turbododge.com's classifieds.

The local salvage yards are devoid of Daytonas in general. Infact the only Daytona I ever saw sitting in a salvage yard was my own. I guess I might have to hope someone has or knows where I can get the parts to restore it with. Also, are there any identification pieces at all that will tell me the car's RPO codes (options) or anything else my inquiring mind wants to know? Got a VIN decoder handy? etc

stock boost is 12psi

Thanks. 12psi is quite decent for a factory stock vehicle isn't it? Especially one from America. Does this thing have bad turbo lag like most other 4cyl turbos?

 

[Guest]

to me its not bad

 

[ljbprrfmof]

PM the vin to me, I may be able to get a build sheet for you.

 

[VonKaiser]

PM the vin to me, I may be able to get a build sheet for you.

There isn't one online? Nothing personal but I'm a bit nervous about giving out my VIN. :bang head

 

[Guest]

you can try this one Mopar VIN Decoder

 

[moparfwdsleeper]

you can try this one Mopar VIN Decoder

did do any good when I used my VIN from the CSX

Try this one... VIN Decoder 1982-2005

 

[Screamin4banger]

Also, are there any identification pieces at all that will tell me the car's RPO codes (options) or anything else my inquiring mind wants to know?

There should be a fender tag, data plate or whatever you want to call it under the hood held on with two phillips head screws.

 

[ljbprrfmof]

I am a Chrysler Dealer, and I would be using Chrysler's records through their dealer computer website.

 

[ljbprrfmof]

I just decoded a VIN for a LeBaron coupe on eBay. I received all the options, although it was confusing some of the codes for the same code used on newer vehicles.

Clayton's just gave me the basic build info, no options.

'toker's was the same info.

You may try taking the VIN to a local Chrysler dealer's parts counter. The parts decoder runs a little different than the service dept. inquiry.

 

[tryingbe]

* What else should I look for to repair/replace to ensure reliability as a daily driver?

Everything rubber, radiator hose, fuel INJECTION hose, all belts, injector o-rings, brake hoses
Every gasket and seal, head gasket, oil pan gasket, rear main seal, front main seal, cv shaft seals, transmission input shaft seal,
Every fluid, oil, transmission oil, brake fluid, coolant, p/s fluid, etc
New tires, grease the rear bearing, new brake parts
All suspension bushings, new struts/shocks, new themostat

Take the radiator to a shop to be tested or recored
New or clean injectors, new fuel pump,
Test compression, ....

Basically replace everything in sight. If you don't, it's going to break. It's a 20+ year old car!


I probably missed something, but I'm sure you'll find out sooner or later

* Where would I find the Shelby plaque with the unit #?

Car is not numbered from factory. No Daytona ever was, maybe if it is a prototype...

* What's one of these run in the ¼mi stock?

mid 15's

* Does it really have 174bhp and 200 torque stock like Wiki says?

That's what the paper work says, however, I think they are a little underrated.

 

[utah_pure]

I would say just basic maintenance items, Unless the car has a hard 61k on it, Usually that low of miles is a good thing unless it was driven hard then parked.
good premium gas and some royal purple make the car happy...

As far as quarter times it depends on how well the car runs and where you are at elevation wise, people say mid 15's, But I got that out a T1 car with sloppy suspension/trans/ crappy tires and a chopped exhaust with a MBC set to 14psi in a 86 Laser XT, My friend that bought my 89 Shelby Daytona ran 16.0 at 89 Mph(good r/t bad 60'foot) hahah with serious wiring issues causing fuel delievery problems on street tires in Utah so... all things considered maybe im lucky maybe its that these cars running right are capable of low 15's bone stock with a good driver or better in better elevation...

 

[tryingbe]

I disagree, especially when the car has been sitting for a long time, which means no oil or coolant change.

15 years/90k cylinder head here.

http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f1/f25/167704-why-coolant-change-good-your-car.html

 

[VonKaiser]

Wow, CLR really took some gunk out of your coolant system didn't it? Did you just put it in and run the car so it runs through the coolant system or did you just flush it through the radiator? Also I'm guessing an oil system and trans fluid flush is also a good idea?

 

[tryingbe]

CLR in the radiator while the radiator is out of the car.

Why does everyone ask if I use the CLR in the coolant system in the car?

 

[CrAzYMoPaRGuY]

[*]What's one of these run in the ¼mi stock?

I would think your Daytona would be quicker stock vs stock than your Camaro in the 1/4 mile...?