Turbo Dodge Forums banner
1 - 20 of 33 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i see there are parts for this 2.5turbo but where are few good places to get a 3" downpipe, that actually fits? a stage 1 or 2 ecu? and what sub forum does my car fall under? TIII? how far can i push the stock turbo with an intercooler? 25psi? and what exactly does it take to put this 1990 auto 2dr coupe lebaron into the 14's or even 13's. thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
145 Posts
2.5 is a t1 its close to a t2 but it came witha smaller turbo.

1990 id look for an MP sbec or a custom from tu or cindy. 3" exhaust, a free flow cat a nice intercooler, 255 walbro fuel pump, adj fpr, +20 injectors, be nice to have a 3" downpipe and wastegate housing..ditch that mitsu for at least a stock t2 garret. shitcan that stock airbox for a k+n cone

that should do u nicely.

get an air fuel guage the motor wakes right up after 15-16psi nicely
 

·
Registered
90 Daytona Shelby, 96 Jeep XJ, '13 300C
Joined
·
5,938 Posts
Please, before you go nuts and blow it up, go to Donovan's Dodge Garage and read through the turbo database NUMEROUS times. I can promise you it will answer all of your basic questions. It's easy to put your car into the 14's or 13's with some simple and well-planned mods. After you get a good handle on the basics, then we can help you plan the direction you want to go easier.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
the previous owner installed a manual boost controller, and had a boost gauge in the car and he said the boost is turned up to 16psi, also he took the tranny out and adjusted the bands, and installed a different valvebody. and i just called my uncle who had a daytona, and he said he has a race head and cam, and a mitsubishi turbo for my car, and an extra ecu not sure what stage it is tho? would it say right on it stage 2 or 3 or whatever it is.
and whats MP spec? tu? cindy?

also i have some background with my dodge cummins turbo diesel truck, so i have some knowledge of turbo's, its just im not familar with these little turbos and the 2.2/2.5's but thanks for the link to donovans garage, hopefully that sets me straight. and my buddy has a like new turbo and intercooler off of an 06 subaru wrx, that i can get for 250 maybe even less, and it only has 3000miles on it would that be worth it or not.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,028 Posts
the previous owner installed a manual boost controller, and had a boost gauge in the car and he said the boost is turned up to 16psi, also he took the tranny out and adjusted the bands, and installed a different valvebody. and i just called my uncle who had a daytona, and he said he has a race head and cam, and a mitsubishi turbo for my car, and an extra ecu not sure what stage it is tho? would it say right on it stage 2 or 3 or whatever it is.
and whats MP spec? tu? cindy?

also i have some background with my dodge cummins turbo diesel truck, so i have some knowledge of turbo's, its just im not familar with these little turbos and the 2.2/2.5's but thanks for the link to donovans garage, hopefully that sets me straight. and my buddy has a like new turbo and intercooler off of an 06 subaru wrx, that i can get for 250 maybe even less, and it only has 3000miles on it would that be worth it or not.

TU= Turbosunleashed a vendor
http://www.********************/

^Fukk crap!!^

Cindy is the owner of FWDperformance a vendor linked above


I'n not sure about the Subie turbo but the IC may be OK as long as you can figure a way to mount it and route the IC pipes easily.

If your uncle has a stock mitsu turbo forget it, as its the smallest turbo you can find. Better off finding a T2 garret turbo as it bolts on and is bigger. On the stock map sensor 14psi is as high as you can go before it cuts fuel(known as overboost shutdown), so you either have to get a calibration or trick the computer
 

·
Registered
90 Daytona Shelby, 96 Jeep XJ, '13 300C
Joined
·
5,938 Posts
As far as computers go, the stock units all look the same be they TI or TIV. You'd have to either know what it came out of or look up the part number. If it came from Mopar Performance (MP) or FWD (Cindy) or TU then it "should" have some kind of label on it indicating that. Since your car is a '90, the only stock ECU that will work with your car is another '90 (or '91) 2.5 TI computer. But the vendors will have a calibration that will work for whatever stage setup you want to run.

The trouble with mounting non-stock turbos is the manifold. Our manifolds have a 1-off mounting flange, so unless it's a stock unit or from the vendors, it won't be a direct bolt-on. You can make any turbo work as long as you're good at fabrication. But why go through the trouble if plenty of other turbos are available already? Once you decide what you want to do with the car in the long run, it'll be easier to pick a turbo for your needs.

Our cars only came with a 2-bar MAP setup. That's why we're limited to 14.7 psi of boost. If your car is running a true 16 lbs then it either has been converted to 3-bar somehow or it has something fooling the MAP sensor. Either way, it would be a good idea to figure out what's up with that (and whatever else the previous owner might have done). I'm guessing the PO installed an intercooler on the car, because 16 psi will cook the motor otherwise (especially if you still have the stock Mitsu turbo on there). With the factory intercooler, you're okay at 16 psi, but really you should get an upgraded computer so it's not trying to stretch the TI fuel curve. 16 is really pushing it on stock TI amounts of fuel. Beyond 18, you'll need a better intercooler (and definately other mods to get more fuel).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Once you decide what you want to do with the car in the long run, it'll be easier to pick a turbo for your needs.

I'm guessing the PO installed an intercooler on the car, because 16 psi will cook the motor otherwise
I would like to get the car into the low 13's/high 12's if thats possible without doing any major engine work. also the po didn't not have an intercooler on the car. so maybe its around 14psi? i talked to my uncle and just found more parts that for his daytona, a set of slicks and other stuff not so important. as far as the race ported head, and race cam, will those work okay with the stock valves, and stock pistons? and what are the transaxles good for hp wise? cause i do plan on getting an a.d.j.f.p.r. and 42lb injectors and the necessary ecu and most likely head studs, along with a turbo to compliment the injectors. and im gonna doing something with the tranny.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
Put in the budget a new engine, and repairs. I have not been around here very long but I have been around enough cars and shops to know from previous experiences. I cringed when I read your post. I've seen enough of them, I'm going to throw all these fancy parts on my car and run XX.XX No real understanding how they work w/ each other.

Before you start modding take a good hard look at the car. Do a compression test, oil change, put the oil that came out of it through a slow strainer, look for bearing material, metalic, any thing and everything that does not belong there. If possible drop the pan and look at the pan and strainer, dents in the oil pan should be pounded out, junk removed. Look at your bottom end, does it look clean, or nasty? If you have the tools, pull a bearing cap and plastigauge. That will tell you alot. Drop the down pipe and IC pipe, check for excessive oil. Blades on turbo, shaft play. Turbo's are finicky, they don't like to be pushed. A turbo desingened for 7 pounds won't like trying to make 16 pounds for very long. Then go through the engine bay, anything that does not look stock, pay attention too. Figure out what and why the p.o. did that.

I worked as a factory dealer tech for a couple years and a shop for a year and a half. In that small time I have seen alot of stuff. From waste gates hooked up back wards or not hooked up at all, to some seriously evil home brew setups. Some good, some bad

Sorry for the long post and I am not trying to lecture or come off as a internet know it all, but my advice is sound. You say the previous owner did this and that, so now it is time to find out what he really did. I.E damage and or wear. Plus you are dealing w/ 18 yr old parts

Me and others have seen it countless times, kid spends 10 grand in upgrades, motor blows a week later, no money for repairs, car gets parted out for half of the price, so he can try and buy another car
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
i understand a good amount of it. but the owner before took the car and tuned it, he wasn't some dumbass kid who bought parts because they looked cool, or made the car sound nice...he did things for a reason.... he bought a walbro intank high volume fuel pump from fwd performance, as a replacement for the stock one that died. he turned the boost up but also had a dawes air fuel ratio unit hooked up, to make sure the car wasn't running lean, he replaced the head, headgasket and head bolts, always ran synthetic oils in it, pulled the tranny, adjusted the bands,took the governor off it, cleaned up and installed a newer valvebody, tightened the shifts up. put in a 180 degree thermostat. also the engine is super clean, doesn't leak or use any oil. the turbo spools flawlessly, the car was always cooled down for a few mins after driving it anywhere. i just picked up an air research m10 turbo with an .48 a/r. i also have a mopar performance cam, a ported head. i plan on doing a stage 4 ecu, 42lb injectors, an fuel pressure regulator, an intercooler, i already gave cliff a call and he's probably gonna build the tranny soon.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
im supposed to be doing a baseline at the track this friday weather pending, should be interesting. i can take pics whenever, but yah i hate kids who don't realize that you can't slap a big exhaust and cone filter and go fast. it takes a lot of work, and planning. i know all about bigger turbo's for my cummins I6 and everything about building that, but im not familar with these smaller turbo's and smaller engines, but i have already learned alot in the few days i have been on here, and unlike my truck where i added power, and didn't think too much about the tranny, with this im doing the tranny before i add anything else to the car, so atleast what power i do make with be put to the ground. also a good billet lock up converter for my truck which has the 47re is around 1200, and for this little car 1200 is more than my who tranny will cost to get built.
 

·
Registered
90 Daytona Shelby, 96 Jeep XJ, '13 300C
Joined
·
5,938 Posts
Yep, sounds like a decent car you picked up. Honestly, turbo tech is pretty universal across the board. Since you have a good basis with your Cummins TD, all you need to learn are the few specifics to our cars and you're good to go.

These baby torqueflites are pretty forgiving for the most part. But if Cliff is building you one then you definately shouldn't have any problems. Something else to consider is using an external transmission cooler instead of the radiator one. And working on the suspension etc. to prevent wheel hop will help a lot in prolonging your transmission's life.

Definately post pics if you can.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
i'll take some pics today even tho its raining, but i got an ecu from my uncle along with some bigger injectors from a chrsyler minivan with the 3.3 i think he said, would those work with my car with an aftermarket ecu that i can pick up or would it have to a custom ecu,but the ecu i got says logic module and this is the part #5226795 and on one of the ports someone wrote m5 with a marker. i know this came from the parts he got with his 85 daytona z, so im pretty positive its useless to me, but would it work as a core for the stage 4 ecu im gonna be buying.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,663 Posts
Where in Connecticut are you? I am in Ansonia. Sounds like a good car and can look at it for you if you like.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
i went to the dealership and the ecu and the computer are both for 85-87 daytona's, sundance's and others and won't work with but they are stock ones anyways, so maybe i can use the ecu as a core? but im in bolton, i go down to derby which is right next to ansonia 1 or 2 friday nights a month for a coffee night for my cummins club im in, heres a question for ya what intercoolers is everyone using, i know i can get anything to work, but im not too great at fabricating, so which intercooler off of what will work the best for a total of $300 for the intercooler and the piping to hook it up.
heres a few pics.



the hood is popped in this pic, just so u guys know it lines up good when it shut.






the boost controller.

i think the car is the gtc or something, because it has the high torque motor in it, and it has a pretty stiff ride, handles pretty good, it has the 14x5.5 aluminum snow flake wheels, how else can i tell which model i have i went to the dealership and gave them the vin and they couldn't tell me much, except i should have 3.69 axle ratio. also i just put the brand new magnecor racing wires that i got from my uncle on and they deffinetly helped a little bit, i can't wait to order the 3bar map sensor and stage 4 ecu this friday or next.
 

·
Registered
90 Daytona Shelby, 96 Jeep XJ, '13 300C
Joined
·
5,938 Posts
The GTC's had body-colored trim where yours has chrome (grille, tail light area, etc). Yours is likely a Turbo GT model. That's a very clean looking car. When I had my 93 convertible, I mounted driving lights in the air dam like was done on yours. They're a little restricted there, but it does help.

For intercoolers, if you aren't planning on going nuts with it then I'd say just find a factory intercooler on here, eBay, or at the junkyard. Get the factory hoses too and it makes life easier. Otherwise, there are plenty of other intercooler options for cheap. You'll just have to do a lot of custom piping and try to get things mounted efficiently. Front mount is the way to go, but baring that any intercooling is better than none. Lots of junkyard intercoolers to choose from: Volvos, Saabs, Fords, DSMs. There's a comparison list here -> DDG- Intercooler ID page

Also new ones from the vendors. Probably going to spend more than $300 that way though.
 

·
We'll do it live!
Joined
·
7,614 Posts
Thats a nice find. As for intercoolers, if you want it to be easy, i'd just try to pick up an IC/Rad combo from an intercooled car.
 

·
Mr. Moderator
Joined
·
8,917 Posts
I see some jbody rust. My rockers on my lebaron aren't that great either. Ya if you are looking for a cheap easy set up go for the stocker. You can find them in the forsale section or ebay. Looks like a decent car overall! good luck.
 
1 - 20 of 33 Posts
Top