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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
While waiting for my engine to come back, I decided to finally relocate the battery to the rear. This should free up a lot space inside the driver's side fender.



Here is the link to the battery relocation thread:
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f321/f337/1029537-rear-battery-box.html#post4003921

I decided to put it on its own thread, because it will be more likely to be found by others, and they can add their own conversions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Freaking awesome mods! I was curious how you did the Camaro style hood scoop and the Celica seats? Do the seats just bolts up?
The Camaro hood scoop sucks! It ended up being too high to see over, for most people. It was probably the biggest $ mistake for the whole project. I think it also ruined the side view profile, so I'm not using it anymore. The only plus was that it gave me a covered hood vent.

As for the Celica seats, they work really well. When I installed the first set, I had to fabricate brackets, using bolts, because I couldn't weld. For this set, it was a lot easier, because I could.

What I like about the Celica seats is that you can raise and lower the bottom section. My wife is short, and I am tall, so they allow both of us to fit better than most other seats.

If there is enough interest, I can pull them apart and show what the brackets now look like, but I don't have enough time right now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
I would love to see what you did for the seats. I'm trying to find a good pair of seats to swap into the car. The stock ones are kind of lacking in comfort.
Since I have installed 2 different generations of Celica seats, I highly recommend them, especially over the aftermarket seats, which I also tried. Yes, you have to modify the brackets, but that isn't that hard.

I have wasted so much money on seats, over the years, trying various Daytona types, and aftermarket types. All of the Daytona seats were worn out and uncomfortable. The aftermarket seats were too big, width wise. The Celica seats are narrower and have good side bolsters, to help hold you in place.

I can't guarantee when I will get time to post pics, but if you follow my Daytona thread, I will be putting a set into it, sometime in the next few months.
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f279/1028201-87-daytona-trackday-build.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
I have spent a lot of time working on the car, but don't have much to show for it. I was able to finish the serpentine belt layout, and get the brackets powdercoated.







I also settled on a 4th cylinder coolant mod.




I now have the engine back in the car, but am still a long way from having it running. My problem is that I only get to work on it a couple days each week.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 · (Edited)
What's the part numbers for your 4th cylinder coolant mod?
I tapped the freeze plug hole, in the head, to 1"NPT and used a 1"NPT male to 1/2"NPT female reducer, Summit P/N EAR-AT991211ERL

1 - 90° 1/2"NPT male to 8AN male fitting into the reducer, Summit P/N EAR-AT991211ERL

1 - straight 8AN hose fitting, Summit P/N SUM-220890B

1 - straight 3/8"NPT male to 8AN male, Summit P/N SUM-220846B

1 - 90° 3/8"NPT male to 8AN male rigid, Summit P/N SUM-220850B

1 - 90° 3/8"NPT male to 8AN male swivel, Summit P/N FRA-499408-BL (special)

3 - 45° female 8AN fittings, Summit P/N SUM-220886B

To connect the female AN fittings, you will need 3 ft of 8AN hose, but I bought 10, Summit P/N SUM-230820

An important thing to note is that the fittings, at the top of the thermostat, need to be oriented so that they don't block access to the #4 spark plug.


This is how the rear looks. I used a red/blue fitting, because I didn't have a black 6AN and wasn't going to wait for an order. No one will see it anyway.


The hose and fittings, from the rear of the block to the turbo, are only 6AN, because the hole in the block is only 1/4". I decided to keep it factory sizing. It has a 90° 6AN fitting going into the front of the turbo housing, with a straight male 6AN to 3/8"NPT fitting, not shown.

The previous photo showed the 90° fitting marked "special". Don't try to use a rigid 90° fitting, on the back of the turbo, because there isn't enough clearance for it.


This is an expensive mod, but I like the look. As "edg" says, you can use Asa's kit, if you have the 2 threaded holes in the head.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
I am getting close to finishing the car, but am way behind on posting pics, so I will try to post some more over the next few days.

Here are some pics of a steering bump stop mod that I have wanted to do for years. I have always had to be careful not to turn the wheels to their full limits, or I would rub the inside of the tires, on the inner fenders. I have thought about using wheel spacers, but didn't want to replace the wheel lugs.

This is the right side setup. Keep in mind that my front suspension is from early 90's Daytonas, with a PolyBushings.com sway bar.


The mod was actually much easier than I thought. All that was needed were two aluminum blocks and bolts. These were test blocks, so don't mind all of the holes. Only one per block were needed.


The bolts thread into the old old sway bar mounting holes.






I don't have any dimensions written down, as this was more of a scrap part drill and cut project. I'll eventually document them, but anyone with a saw and drill can easily duplicate them.
 

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MMMMMM! this is just awesome, i'm thinking the same way I was about to order some wheel studs from Cindy at FWD Performance and spacers, I was thinking of a 1/4 inch wheel spacers though, now i'm thinking if they is going to be enough space there, i'm thinking of using 225'S tires on the four wheels. Have any suggestions.? Blessings
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
MMMMMM! this is just awesome, i'm thinking the same way I was about to order some wheel studs from Cindy at FWD Performance and spacers, I was thinking of a 1/4 inch wheel spacers though, now i'm thinking if they is going to be enough space there, i'm thinking of using 225'S tires on the four wheels. Have any suggestions.? Blessings
I'm not the one to ask. It comes down to the wheel/tire width, and center spacing. I do know that I don't need to turn full lock to full lock, so it's the easiest way to eliminate tire rub.

When I set up the Daytona, I'll probably investigate it more, but I'll keep the Laser as is.
 

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Hi Bob, where did u buy the front rotors, they look like 11" rotors and that is what I want for my car. That aluminium block thingy is a marvelous idea that decreases the chance of tire rub. wow u've thought of everything on that build. Blessings my friend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
Hi Bob, where did u buy the front rotors, they look like 11" rotors and that is what I want for my car. That aluminium block thingy is a marvelous idea that decreases the chance of tire rub. wow u've thought of everything on that build. Blessings my friend.
R1 Concepts Online Shopping - Shop for 1990,Dodge,Daytona.

I bought them 5 years ago, from R1 Concepts. They are 11" coated rotors that fit the 90's Daytonas.

They look really rusty, but if I soak them overnight in a bowl of Evaporst, they clean right up. Maybe the coatings have gotten a lot better since then.
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
With the battery box relocated, the cool air box is about 3" narrower.

I tried to mount the blow off valve near the radiator, but there wasn't enough room, when I tried to put the radiator in.


I finally decided to get it out of the engine bay and put it under the intercooler.


That freed up plenty of space to relocate the coolant overflow tank.
 
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