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Discussion Starter #81
Here are some updated pics.

I decided to powdercoat the brake calipers silver, instead of red.


Engine compartment.



PDC and cool air box, without cover.
 

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Looks clean as always! Love the airbox!

BTW... When were you going to make that guide on swapping the seats? I'd love to get some better ones like yours!
 

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Discussion Starter #83
Looks clean as always! Love the airbox!

BTW... When were you going to make that guide on swapping the seats? I'd love to get some better ones like yours!
Unfortunately, the Daytona project is on hold. The wife won't let me start on it until the Isetta is totally done, so the Daytona will have to wait until winter.

On top of that, I just acquired another '86 Laser, and another Daytona parts car.






This won't get started for at least another year. I really need to retire so I can find more time to work on cars.
 

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Discussion Starter #84
Here are a couple things that have given me problems, during this last rebuild, that might help others:

1) I bought a new clutch cable, from Rock Auto. It was listed as compatible with an '88 Daytona, which is the 520/555 transmission. When I put it on, the clutch was engaging right at the floor. I pulled the cable and compared it to the old one, only to find that the new cable was the same length, but the outer housing was 2-1/4" shorter.


It is labelled as 2-3/4", in the pic, but that was a mistake. The old cable feels great. I never thought to compare the lengths, before using the new one.
 

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Discussion Starter #85
Another issue was that my driver's side inner driveshaft boot was rubbing the transmission housing. After a few hundred miles, the boot actually cut and threw grease everywhere. I am using heavy shafts, from "The Driveshaft Shop". They warrantied the boot, but the new one also rubbed the tranny, so I decided to grind away the housing.



I've put 100 miles on it, and there's no sign of wear, so I think it won't be an issue.

When I added a drain hole, to the tranny, I used an internal type plug, which had straight threads. Because the port was tapped using a 3/8"NPT thread, I would get an occasional drip. I swapped it to an external plug, which has the NPT thread. Now, the leak is gone.
 

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Discussion Starter #86
Lastly, you might have seen that I replaced the rear motor mount/shock setup with a rigid threaded mount. I've used it for a few years and cannot feel the difference.



Another bonus is that it eliminated that big bracket, making it easier to access the rear of the tranny. The only negative is that you need to center the engine, before installing the new mount. Otherwise, it might prevent you moving the engine side to side.

It's cheaper and better than the original.
 

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Discussion Starter #87
Here's an updated pic of the entire engine compartment.



You can't see it, but the tranny has been upgraded to a Quaife.


It's amazing how much better the traction is. Instead of having to fight torque steer, you can just turn the wheel and it tracks where you point it. Expensive, but worth it. I recommend having Ed Papp do your tranny rebuilds. He has the knowledge and correct parts. Doing it right, the first time, will save you money and frustration.
 

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Bob the car looks very neat & tidy, I've asked this question before and never got an answer, what did u do to the front motor mount, u had said u had to remove it because the rad was too big and was curious as to what u did to rectify that problem. Thanks. Regards. Errol.
 

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Discussion Starter #89
Bob the car looks very neat & tidy, I've asked this question before and never got an answer, what did u do to the front motor mount, u had said u had to remove it because the rad was too big and was curious as to what u did to rectify that problem. Thanks. Regards. Errol.
The Laser uses an aluminum radiator that is the same size as the original, so no problem there. It's the Daytona that is getting the larger radiator. I haven't done anything to it, in weeks, and haven't got a concrete plan yet.
 
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