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during the winter I had decided to do a bunch of work to my 89 Daytona C/S swapped over to garret,two piece intake air to fuel ratio gauge,pyrometer ported exhaust manifolds and SS oil and cooland lines from TU get it all together start the car up runs great fuel ratio was spot on at cold idle and warm idle good vaccum 18-20 hg...but then I noticed a fair size puddle/drip under the motor so I turn it off jacked the car up thinking it was a line turns out the swingvalve has oil seaping throught where it bolts up and its got a big enough drip around the compressor housing I havent drove the car as my concern losing to much oil is a worry but I was told if the turbo is under pressure or crusing the oil will stay in the cartridge (assuming my seals are blown) thing even with the big puddle its showing on the dipstick as its still up to level...would I be okay to drive it periodically as long as I keep an eye on the oil lvl as I don't have the funds for a rebuild until the winter comes,any advice or opinions would be great
 

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I suggest going to ebay and ordering a new center cartridge for about 187$. and swapping out the center cartridge when you get time.

driving it should be fine if you monitor oil level.
 

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Driving it with the turbo leaking is NOT a good idea, the oil will blow into the cat, if you have one and choke it up. Typically, if the piston seal on the turbine side is leaking that badly the cartridge is pretty much shot and will need to be replaced. You can replace the cartridge however, taking the turbo apart is a nightmare if you have never done one because the bolts do not want to come out and if you force them they will easily snap off in the housing. You have to use a torch to get the bolts and housing red hot and then use just the right touch to break the bolts loose, and even if you know how, they sometimes break off. Drilling out the broken off bolt is a true skill to get it square and centered and then tapped out properly, it's easy to ruin a housing.

You can get a replacement cartridge as mentioned above: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-OMNI-GLH-DAYTONA-Garrett-TB0335-Turbo-charger-CHRA-Cartridge/262250183345

You can also find good used turbo if budget is tight and you can get rebuilt. I have both rebuilt and good used tI and TII turbos available right now. PM me here or on Facebook if you need some advice and some help with this.
 

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Driving it with the turbo leaking is NOT a good idea, the oil will blow into the cat, if you have one and choke it up. Typically, if the piston seal on the turbine side is leaking that badly the cartridge is pretty much shot and will need to be replaced. You can replace the cartridge however, taking the turbo apart is a nightmare if you have never done one because the bolts do not want to come out and if you force them they will easily snap off in the housing. You have to use a torch to get the bolts and housing red hot and then use just the right touch to break the bolts loose, and even if you know how, they sometimes break off. Drilling out the broken off bolt is a true skill to get it square and centered and then tapped out properly, it's easy to ruin a housing.

You can get a replacement cartridge as mentioned above: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-OMNI-GLH-DAYTONA-Garrett-TB0335-Turbo-charger-CHRA-Cartridge/262250183345

You can also find good used turbo if budget is tight and you can get rebuilt. I have both rebuilt and good used tI and TII turbos available right now. PM me here or on Facebook if you need some advice and some help with this.
Taking the turbo apart isn't a bad job, many bolts can seize (and break off), just make sure to soak in a good penetrate, and apply heat and take your time. I've rebuilt two turbos using only hand tools and propane torch, and I live in a salted-winter climate 6 months of the year! Taking the compressor wheel nut off can be intimidating, but a 10mm wrench and small hammer to shock it loose does the trick
 

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" but a 10mm wrench and small hammer to shock it loose does the trick"

Great way to bend the turbine shaft! You absolutely do not want to apply any lateral force on the turbine shaft to remove the nut. You really want to use a T-handle 12 point 3/8" wrench to take that nut off to avoid bending that shaft. TI and TII nutes are right hand thread, TIV nuts are left! Use MAP gas, gets hotter faster, needs to be red hot before you try and you need/should use a impact style technique to get the bolts free. Good idea to give them several good raps parallel to the bolt shaft before and as they are hot to break the rust bond and then set your 1/2" wrench (which will be very tight on the 13mm head) and give the wrench a downward strick with the hammer to shock the bolt and also turn it counterclockwise.
 
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