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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys. I have a 1990 Lebaron with v6 in my care that has a CEL on. With the key dance, the light flashes code 35 and 41. From what I understand, code 35 is for the alternator. After finding that out, I replace the alternator and check the voltage with the engine running and it's still not charging. Voltage at idle reads 11.8v and doesnt rise with RPM. I am looking at installing an external voltage regulator but wondering if you guys have tips on that.

The other code, 45, is for the fan relay. I replaced the fan relay and i still have the code. I also supplied voltage to the fan and the fan did come on, so the fan does indeed work. Wondering if anyone has any tips about that one too.

Thanks in advance! Scratching my head over here.
 

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91 Daytona Shelby 5Spd 2.5 T1, 85 New Yorker 2.2 T1, 89 LeBaron Convertible 2.5 T1, Many spare parts
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Solve the charging problem first. You might even want to put your battery on a charger for a while to make sure it's closer to 13v. The second code could be from insufficient available amperage. (What I mean is, the fan kicks kinda hard, so the relay is big. If it doesn't get enough volts, it might not rock over.) Also, before buying and replacing more parts, double-check the continuity. Clean the contacts on the wire harness and battery terminals, and also confirm zero ohms from the alternator to the battery. I believe I have the same wire harness you have in my shed, and I think it had an inline fusible link. Just wondering, did you test your old alternator?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So it’s all solved but I think I spent money that I didn’t need to.
I didn’t test my alternator, though I think I should have. It was probably fine so I wasted $115 on a reman unit.
I replace the alt and still got no charge, like I said. So I threw in an external voltage regulator. Got a great charge after that, about 14.7 Volts when running. But still the CEL was on, for both codes. Damn.
But then today the wiring diagram book I ordered on eBay came in the mail. Big help. The wire that goes to the field has a 15 amp fuse. It’s also the same wire that feeds power for the radiator fan relay! I replaced the fuse, and the codes all went away.
So all in all, I wasted probably $200 on this puzzle of mine that came down to a blown fuse. Always check the simple things first—I know better!!
 

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91 Daytona Shelby 5Spd 2.5 T1, 85 New Yorker 2.2 T1, 89 LeBaron Convertible 2.5 T1, Many spare parts
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Glad it's working, though. (-: You can beat yourself up over it, but just think, you would've spent the same having a mechanic "diagnose" and fix it. Did you keep the old alt? If it's at the store, you might still be able to get it back and save it for a spare. I've done that myself before.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
True. I gabe the alt for a core charge refund so I don’t think I can get it back. Oh well! Now it’s new with a lifetime warrantee.
Car still runs terribly though. Zero power,can barely make it up a hill. I thought it was inlimp mode due to the CEL but I guess not.
 

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91 Daytona Shelby 5Spd 2.5 T1, 85 New Yorker 2.2 T1, 89 LeBaron Convertible 2.5 T1, Many spare parts
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In my last post, I was thinking it but I didn't say it: What caused the fuse to blow? /-: I never really had any problems like that out of my 3.0's, so I can't speak from experience. Not sure where to start, to be honest, but maybe something else is shorting you out or has a weak connection.

(Edit: 14.7v from the alternator may be on the high side, too. Might still be a short somewhere.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hmm, I’ll check it out. Yeah that voltage does seem a bit high. On the subject of running rough, I decide to let it idle and pull some plug wires to see if I had any dead cylinders. Looks like two of them are dead. Going to check the plugs in those cylinders next.
 

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Hello. The fan on my 90 Le Baron has mysteriously stopped working also. I checked the fuse and it’s good. I also tried pulling the plug off the coolant sensor as I read that that is supposed to cause the fan to come on automatically. It still did not run. In a related note the ac compressor quit spinning at the same time. I feel like it’s related. Any ideas here ?
 

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Check to see if the fan motor works by giving it 12v power directly.
Thanks for your help with this. I put 12v to the fan at the connector. Fan runs. I also tested the ground side of the engine wire connector. Ground is good. Possible relay or fusible link ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Okay. Yeah, I'd throw on a new relay, they are cheap. Pretty sure you can use any old bosch-style relay if you want to just test a theory and save a couple bucks. Double check fuse #16. I can send a pic of a wiring diagram if you need as well.
 

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Okay. Yeah, I'd throw on a new relay, they are cheap. Pretty sure you can use any old bosch-style relay if you want to just test a theory and save a couple bucks. Double check fuse #16. I can send a pic of a wiring diagram if you need as well.
Can you tell me where that relay is ? I never here it click anymore. The fuse looked good but I will check it again
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Driver's side, in front of the strut tower. There should be 3 plastic relays there. I believe the fan relay is the one that has two green wires going into one terminal.... Sorry to be cryptic but that's the best I can offer at this moment
 

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Driver's side, in front of the strut tower. There should be 3 plastic relays there. I believe the fan relay is the one that has two green wires going into one terminal.... Sorry to be cryptic but that's the best I can offer at this moment
Oh that’s perfect. I know right where it is. Thank you. I’ll try replacing it and let you know what happens
 

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Driver's side, in front of the strut tower. There should be 3 plastic relays there. I believe the fan relay is the one that has two green wires going into one terminal.... Sorry to be cryptic but that's the best I can offer at this moment
Ok I replaced the fan relay. Still no fan. I read that the fan and ac clutch are both disabled if there is no or a bad signal from the throttle position sensor. Should I replace it ? There’s no check engine light.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I have no clue! But maybe. I think theres a way you can test the TPS with a multimeter. Good luck!
 

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91 Daytona Shelby 5Spd 2.5 T1, 85 New Yorker 2.2 T1, 89 LeBaron Convertible 2.5 T1, Many spare parts
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Hmm, I think that relates to it responding to a WOT state, so I would imagine your car would run pretty badly if the TPS were shorting out. It should be fairly easy to test, but it should also throw a code in most cases.
 

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Hmm, I think that relates to it responding to a WOT state, so I would imagine your car would run pretty badly if the TPS were shorting out. It should be fairly easy to test, but it should also throw a code in most cases.
I know there is a procedure to read codes for this pre-odb2 vehicle. Referred to as the key dance. Anyone provide me with some info on how to do it ?
 
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