Hey guys. I have a 1990 Lebaron with v6 in my care that has a CEL on. With the key dance, the light flashes code 35 and 41. From what I understand, code 35 is for the alternator. After finding that out, I replace the alternator and check the voltage with the engine running and it's still not charging. Voltage at idle reads 11.8v and doesnt rise with RPM. I am looking at installing an external voltage regulator but wondering if you guys have tips on that.
The other code, 45, is for the fan relay. I replaced the fan relay and i still have the code. I also supplied voltage to the fan and the fan did come on, so the fan does indeed work. Wondering if anyone has any tips about that one too.
Solve the charging problem first. You might even want to put your battery on a charger for a while to make sure it's closer to 13v. The second code could be from insufficient available amperage. (What I mean is, the fan kicks kinda hard, so the relay is big. If it doesn't get enough volts, it might not rock over.) Also, before buying and replacing more parts, double-check the continuity. Clean the contacts on the wire harness and battery terminals, and also confirm zero ohms from the alternator to the battery. I believe I have the same wire harness you have in my shed, and I think it had an inline fusible link. Just wondering, did you test your old alternator?
So it’s all solved but I think I spent money that I didn’t need to.
I didn’t test my alternator, though I think I should have. It was probably fine so I wasted $115 on a reman unit.
I replace the alt and still got no charge, like I said. So I threw in an external voltage regulator. Got a great charge after that, about 14.7 Volts when running. But still the CEL was on, for both codes. Damn.
But then today the wiring diagram book I ordered on eBay came in the mail. Big help. The wire that goes to the field has a 15 amp fuse. It’s also the same wire that feeds power for the radiator fan relay! I replaced the fuse, and the codes all went away.
So all in all, I wasted probably $200 on this puzzle of mine that came down to a blown fuse. Always check the simple things first—I know better!!
Glad it's working, though. (-: You can beat yourself up over it, but just think, you would've spent the same having a mechanic "diagnose" and fix it. Did you keep the old alt? If it's at the store, you might still be able to get it back and save it for a spare. I've done that myself before.
True. I gabe the alt for a core charge refund so I don’t think I can get it back. Oh well! Now it’s new with a lifetime warrantee.
Car still runs terribly though. Zero power,can barely make it up a hill. I thought it was inlimp mode due to the CEL but I guess not.
In my last post, I was thinking it but I didn't say it: What caused the fuse to blow? /-: I never really had any problems like that out of my 3.0's, so I can't speak from experience. Not sure where to start, to be honest, but maybe something else is shorting you out or has a weak connection.
(Edit: 14.7v from the alternator may be on the high side, too. Might still be a short somewhere.)
Hmm, I’ll check it out. Yeah that voltage does seem a bit high. On the subject of running rough, I decide to let it idle and pull some plug wires to see if I had any dead cylinders. Looks like two of them are dead. Going to check the plugs in those cylinders next.
Hello. The fan on my 90 Le Baron has mysteriously stopped working also. I checked the fuse and it’s good. I also tried pulling the plug off the coolant sensor as I read that that is supposed to cause the fan to come on automatically. It still did not run. In a related note the ac compressor quit spinning at the same time. I feel like it’s related. Any ideas here ?
Thanks for your help with this. I put 12v to the fan at the connector. Fan runs. I also tested the ground side of the engine wire connector. Ground is good. Possible relay or fusible link ?
Okay. Yeah, I'd throw on a new relay, they are cheap. Pretty sure you can use any old bosch-style relay if you want to just test a theory and save a couple bucks. Double check fuse #16. I can send a pic of a wiring diagram if you need as well.
Driver's side, in front of the strut tower. There should be 3 plastic relays there. I believe the fan relay is the one that has two green wires going into one terminal.... Sorry to be cryptic but that's the best I can offer at this moment
Hmm, I think that relates to it responding to a WOT state, so I would imagine your car would run pretty badly if the TPS were shorting out. It should be fairly easy to test, but it should also throw a code in most cases.
Well I could not get the check engine light to blink after doing this procedure. Idk why. The check engine light only briefly flashes on when the key is turned. Not even a bulb check. I’m starting to suspect the computer.
I've never had the self-diag fail for me, even when the ECU was malfunctioning and only had 8v to run off of. At least, that's my experience, but on that note, is your battery topped off? I do find that being too quick about it can make the ignition cylinder jump past the ON position. It's just "ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON", so the lights on the dash should be kinda spazzing out the whole time and then it should start reading off the codes after that. As a last resort, many garages will still pull the code on an OBD1 ECU, though they will usually charge for it.
You could also take a video of what you're seeing and hearing. Sometimes it just takes an extra set of eyes and ears. I don't know how hard it would be to attach a video to the site, but there are plenty of YouTube uploads where people show their vehicle problems for others to try to help.
Thanks again so much for all your help. I will charge up the battery and try again with a video. I found an adapter on ebay to convert odb1 to allow an odb2 scan tool to connect. I may try that before I take it for a professional to look at. Watch this space for further developments.
Ok I have determined that the wire running from the fan relay to the fan is good. When I put power to it the fan runs. I still can’t get any stored codes. The check engine light light flickers on for less than a second. Really quick. Doesnt even do a bulb check like the check gauges light. I’m suspecting the engine control computer. Any thoughts ?
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