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It would be nice to be able to log in from within a posting. Sometimes, I'm "just checking" and I end up having to go back out to the board to log in then back to the posting to comment.
 

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I tried firing up the 84 Laser today after 23 years. Got spark, cranks over good and I hear power to the fuel pump...full tank of gas....NEW TANK...BUT...the pump is not sending fuel to the filter which is in line and when I take off the inlet line on the filter no fuel has made it from the tank. Is the pump bad(brand new Spectra Premium, Mopar sending unit) or something else? Would a bad relay prevent the pump from "pumping" Any ideas is greatly appreciated,,,,cheers...PAUL Also,,,,,I put a new oil pan gasket on and when I turn the motor over the crank is hitting the pan...all screws lined up just fine....can't figure that one out!! Sorry for posting here but can't find where to log in or post just this question....hmmm.
 

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Hello,
Nobody will see your post here.
Please open a new thread in the Turbo Dodge Help Section and then copy and paste you post into that new thread.
Once you have done that I can help you with your issue.
Thank You.
 

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I apologise for the difficulty you are having navigating the site.
The powers that be updated and changed the format of the site last year.
It does get easier as you become familiar with the site.
At the top of the page to the right you will see 4 icons, New, 5 lines, a square with your profile pic and 3 dots.
The 5 lines are TD Forums, click on the 5 lines and the Help section is the first one listed.
Click on "start discussion", title your thread, add text and submit thread.
 

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I tried firing up the 84 Laser today after 23 years. Got spark, cranks over good and I hear power to the fuel pump...full tank of gas....NEW TANK...BUT...the pump is not sending fuel to the filter which is in line and when I take off the inlet line on the filter no fuel has made it from the tank. Is the pump bad(brand new Spectra Premium, Mopar sending unit) or something else? Would a bad relay prevent the pump from "pumping" Any ideas is greatly appreciated,,,,cheers...PAUL
 

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Thanks so much NJ...I got it figured out before your reply, thank you,,,and maybe you have an idea about my Laser...see post above....2,2 Turbo basically the same as the Daytona right?...just won't pump the gas and getting no code errors...hmmm? Cheers from TX...PAUL
 

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The ASD Relay provides power to the + coil, injectors and fuel pump.
The ASD will be actuated for 1 second with initial key on to pressurize the fuel rail.
The ASD will not be actuated again until the engine controller see's a crank/rpm signal from the HEP (Hall Effect Pickup) in the distributor.
If you have spark while cranking and you hear the pump actuate for one second with initial key on the ASD relay and power/ground to the pump are not an issue.

I would say your issue lies in the tank with the fuel pump hanger assembly.
Do you own a fuel pressure gauge?
Are you 100% sure that there are no restrictions in the feed line from the tank to the filter?
If there are no restrictions then the issue is with the fuel pump/hanger assembly.
You can manually actuate the ASD Relay which actuate the pump and keep the pump running so you can check fuel pressure.
a)Locate the underhood diagnostic connector (in front of R/S (passenger) strut tower.
b)Using a jumper wire ground the DB/YL wire in the diagnostic connector.
6-ASD Manual Actuation.JPG ELECTRICAL- Diagnostic Connector.jpg
c)Turn the key on
d)You should now have 12 volts ate the + coil, injectors and fuel pump, you should hear the fuel pump running.
e)Note: This may set a Code 42 in memory, it is not an indication of a problem.

 

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Yeeeehaaaw!!!! Followed your inst. and the fuel pump started running. Believe it or not...when I hooked up the new fuel pump and new sending unit to the new tank I accidentally put the lines on wrong...pump to send, unit and SU to pump...whoa is me. Does this mean the car will fire up now? Another issue doesn't make sense to me either. I replaced the old oil pan gasket(s) and when re-filled and cranked over the motor, the crank was hitting the oil pan?????
All the screws lined up normally and I torqued down to specs. What could that be? Thanks so much for your help and time, I appreciate your knowledge very much...God Bless....PAUL
271254
 

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There is a service valve on the fuel rail.

The crankshaft is not close to the pan so I cannot see how it would hit, the only thing that is close to the oil pan itself is the pickup tube for the oil pump.
Maybe you dropped something in the pan that's being splashed around, maybe it is a bottom end noise, loss of oil pressure, if it is an Auto Trans car it could be a cracked flexplate.

If the noise was not there prior to replacing the oil pan gasket my guess is you will need to drop the pan again to make a physical inspection.
 

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Thanks so very much...will do the physical inspection and I have found the service valve. Not sure what the flex plate is? Nothing in the pan and the oil pick up tube is stable in place. Doesn't sound like a low end problem after physical inspection...more of "tinny" clacking sound....loud click click click as it's turning. Will replace the fuel regulator as it's the old one on there. I do hear the 1 second sound from the fuel pump when I turn on the key then goes silent...does that mean it won't continue pumping as I crank the engine or it's normal to do that? You have been so helpful that I'd like to send you some music that my wife Helen and I have on CD's. Please send your mailing info to [email protected] Thanks again and God Bless ya...PAUL...& HELEN
 

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The flex plate is what Chrysler used to bolt the torque converter to the crankshaft, almost like a flywheel, it was very common for these to crack (along with GM auto trans flywheels) and the noise it makes is a higher pitched/tinny sound when the engine is running, sort of like baseball cards in your bicycle spokes only with a metal sound.
If this is an Auto Trans car remove the lower inspection cover and take a look up at the flex plate and torque converter bolts.
 

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Sounds like it but do I have to drain the tran fluid first? Yikes! Is it easy to fix or even find one? Cheers...
 

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The inspection cover bolts to the front of the transmission at the bottom, remove the bolts and remove the inspection cover.

See Chrysler Parts Catalog.

1984 Catalog...
Inspection Cover
Group 21A Automatic Transmission, Page 621, Figure 21A-1400 Item 19

Flex Plate
Group 09A Engine 4 Cylinder, Page 287, Figure 9A-1200, Item 1
 

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The inspection cover bolts to the front of the transmission at the bottom, remove the bolts and remove the inspection cover.

See Chrysler Parts Catalog.

1984 Catalog...
Inspection Cover
Group 21A Automatic Transmission, Page 621, Figure 21A-1400 Item 19

Flex Plate
Group 09A Engine 4 Cylinder, Page 287, Figure 9A-1200, Item 1
Thanks again my friend...will inspect today and hope for the best. Do I need to drain the tranny fluid first?? Many Many thanks also for the pdf exploded diagrams, they are awesome. Are any of the parts for the Laser available even with the parts numbers or are all discontinued?? God Bless ya...PAUL
 

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No draining of trans fluid is necessary, it is only an inspection cover that gives you access to the torque converter bolts.

As far as parts being available, it depends on the part, some are available aftermarket some may be available from Chrysler if they were used through many years/many vehicles, you have to check as you need the part, the majority are probably discontinued.
You have an 84 vehicle which is a breed all to itself, it uses electrical parts that were not used in other years.

If you need parts...
1)You can open a thread in our "Parts Wanted" section.

2)If you need something and have the Mopar Part # you can use it to cross reference in the aftermarket or enter it here...
This will show any vendors that have the OE Mopar Part available.

3)eBay is another choice when looking for discontinued parts.
Used Chrysler Factory Service Manuals are also available on eBay.
Search...1984 Chrysler Service Manuals

4)Right after I left Chrysler when Fiat took over, Chrysler sold all of their older/discontinued parts that were in distribution centers to...
I have never found any parts here that I needed.

5)As a last resort you can call or visit your local dealer with the part # and ask them if they will run a parts locator. (Some dealers do not want to be bothered)
This will show any dealer in the country that may have the part sitting on the shelf, then you can contact that dealer directly to be sure it is there and if so arrange payment and shipping.
This is how I found my upper and lower timing covers, turbo oil and coolant lines, rear reflector/side marker, etc.
 

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Hey again my friend. Hope your week-end is a good one. Tried to fire up the Laser again today after buttoning everything up and adding oil etc etc. No loose flywheel bolts and the flex plate isn't cracked. New Fuel pressure regulator also. Turned the key with a new battery and nothing. Engine won't crank over now...nothing from the starter but all the gauges are working and comp talking. Could it be a bad starter relay or something to do with the starter/starter celonoid? Should I check for codes? It did crank over before as I told you about the clacking sound but now nada. I haven't tried to turn it over since then, just today....hmm. Where is the starter located on this 2.2...I can't find it....and that means it's probably hard to remove. I'm not giving up....God Bless...PAUL
 

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Did the engine crank before the new battery was installed?
Be sure the battery terminals are not loose/cracked, etc and the battery is charged and reads 12 volt, new does not always =. good.
If Ok you need to verify 12 volts are present at the positive battery cable at the starter.
The starter is located on the left side (driver side) of the engine in the back under the turbo.
If both of the above test Ok then we will check power and ground at the starter relay.
 
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