[clocktowersnipr]

Well, its lowered. Rides real nice, looks good. I used Eibach springs and Monroes best(bleck) but they ride nice. They will do until I get a Koni set up. I also removed the spring isolators in front and back, gave me a 1/2 inch lower. I wasnt sure on that one but it doesnt make any noises or pops at all and rides fine, not like a mexican jumoing bean with chopped springs. Overall I got 2 inches maybe slightly more out of it.

 

[Tudds]

lets see some pics

 

[clocktowersnipr]

I will post some pics as soon as I figure out how!

 

[Tudds]

send them to me [email protected] and I'll post them

 

[Tudds]

 

[clocktowersnipr]

First pic is lowered, second is stock

 

[RIFF-RAFF]

Very subtle.....I like it.


Frank

 

[Fast4Ward]

red on black. yuk can't see any diff in the pics.....maybe its just me....I can't stand the red Rt's

 

[Dave]

I like it! Did you get the Eibach springs from FWD Performance?

 

[clocktowersnipr]

Nope, E Bay. There is another set and it was $60 cheaper than FWD. I did the whole job for $300. Springs,shocks,struts.

 

[redrocket91rt]

wow, cheap looks the same though, I heard one cannot properly lower these cars because of handling issues. How have your handling characteristics changed? Are the spring isolaters the rubbers at the top and bottom of each spring?

 

[clocktowersnipr]

its hard to tell from those pics, I measured 2 1/4 inches drop. I left the top isolators in and took out the bottoms. Handling characteristics increased dramatically. Who told you that you cant lower these cars correctly? Last person who told me that was my shop teacher back in high school years ago, He was wrong. Even though its lowered 2 1/4 inches, it still falls within factory alignment specs with no problem. When you lower them so much that they dont fall within specs is when you will have a problem. I also added a strut tower brace as well, and I will say it will out handle my neighbors GLH Omni now. Oh, and I also have a 3 inch exhaust going over the rear axle and it clears even though the car is lowered. There are also no squeeks or rattles either.

 

[redrocket91rt]

I think it would mess with the camber when you reach a certain amount of low in the front, most likely in a good way though. Aslo someone said the if the pivot on the control arm is not level to the hub (the arm is not parallel to the ground) its bad. But now that I think about that it sounds like BS. I also heard one needs an adjustable rear bar to compensate for lowering, I hope thats BS too. I think I shall cut my springs or put in spring compressors/lengtheners that checker sells if they fits in there

 

[Grandma'sCar]

i have to pull mine back apart in the next few days due to the popping, i think i will pull my isolators out as well, i didn't get as much of a drop as i'd wanted......car looks good nice work :thumb:

 

[86Shelby]

An adjustable panhard bar may do you good in the rear. Take a close look. I bet your passenger rear tire is farther towards the fender when compared to the drivers rear. that's what happened when my R/T was lowered.

 

[Ben]

An adjustable panhard bar may do you good in the rear. Take a close look. I bet your passenger rear tire is farther towards the fender when compared to the drivers rear. that's what happened when my R/T was lowered.

That's what happens when you lower any panhard bar rear suspension car. The panhard bar hangs on an angle. When the car is lowered, the bar becomes "longer" - pushing the passenger wheel out - or actually pushing the whole rear axle out the passenger side. No matter what you do with these setups, the rear axle will also "float" when the car is moving up and down. Now, like Ray said - check the distances on either side. An adjustable solid panhard bar would be nice to bring the rear axle back centered. In my minivan especially, I can feel the rear mis-align when I'm in hard turns at highway speeds and I hit a good rise in the road to upset the rear suspension. It can be dangerous.

I've always hated this design - it's retarded - at least, performance-wise.

 

[86Shelby]

I've always hated this design - it's retarded - at least, performance-wise.

I agree! This is my first car with this setup. I don't like it much at all. Not cool to feel the rear end of the car move around on you going over bumps!

Back with the adjustable panahard rod... I hear CS racing sells one, how can I get in contact with them? My searches are coming up empty for contact info.

 

[boxcar]

What's the cats name?

 

[Fast4Ward]

An adjustable panhard bar may do you good in the rear. Take a close look. I bet your passenger rear tire is farther towards the fender when compared to the drivers rear. that's what happened when my R/T was lowered.

Ditto. I have the Visionary version of the adj panhard rod on mine. He use to be a member on this board. I got all freakout about it actually because the adj rod went in as is and I drove around with it and when I noticed it. I freak'd out but once adjusted it was all good.
Also I used the ST springs and recant my comment on the thread that I didn't see a difference in the pics posted :bash: ......I kind of do now but my car is much lower with the the ST springs. More than 2 inches it appears.

 

[Grandma'sCar]

I agree! This is my first car with this setup. I don't like it much at all. Not cool to feel the rear end of the car move around on you going over bumps!

Back with the adjustable panahard rod... I hear CS racing sells one, how can I get in contact with them? My searches are coming up empty for contact info.

www.csracer.com