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going to an 89/90 kframe with Energy Suspension Poly bushings will usually lower it 1/2" because of the increased weight the springs carry instead of the stub struts on the a-arms.
 

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i think most of our cars sit high in the front to begin with, so i would just drop the nose 1" with some shelby lancer or csx springs and just put stiffer springs on the back.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the replies everyone! keep them coming!

What are you after? Looks? Handling? Do you have a wheel and tire setup in mind?
Both. I was thinking 16 inch drag dr20s with stretched tires with some sort of camber set up maybe? I was also planning on getting all the fenders profesionally rolled and pulled.
 

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Neither, 16" DR's are too big, and 20's will make the car look like this:




If you want a DR setup then 225/50 15's is what you want. 22" or 24.5" tall for a full drag slick x 8"

Fender clearance isn't an issue it's the clearance to the strut and shocks as you don't want to change the offset of the wheel too much otherwise you'll "F" up the handling. 8" wide with a 35mm offset is about the max with a 225 wide tire. I wouldn't go more than a 17" so you can still have some sidewall for ride/handling/looks purposes. For Camber and toe settings read here: Index - Turbo Mopar Forums
 

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Discussion Starter #7
oh no! I would never put 20s on a car haha. Drag Dr20 is the model of wheel. but it probably will be used for drag racing but ill get different front wheels for the track. I just want it pretty low for looks with some semi deep dish 15s. 8inch wide sound pretty nice to me though
 

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ahh gotcha, I just misread that. well if you can find a deep dish 15"x8" with a 35mm offset in 5x100, go for it.

using an 89/90 kmember and dual pivot arms will lower the car as more weight is supported by the springs instead of the a-arms. Because of the stub strut a-arm design of the earlier kmembers the a-arms/stub strut actually support some of the weight of the car. That being said with the dual pivot setup and stock springs on my 87 Yorker it's as low as you want to go to keep the suspension geometry decent. Any lower and my camber curve goes to crap. I can't remember if this pic is with the stock stub strut or the 89/90 dual pivot kmember. 100_0651
 

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wow nice car GLHNSLHT but i might want to go a little lower. Any Idea on anything I could do with coilovers? or is that out of the picture? And yellonoma I will definitelly post pics when I do it but I will probably make a build thread because Im gonna do an srt4 swap.
 

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The problem with going lower is that the LCA's start going past parallel to the ground. Once you do that you screw up the camber curve. So instead of the wheel gaining negative camber as it arcs through it's travel you loose camber.
 

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The problem with going lower is that the LCA's start going past parallel to the ground. Once you do that you screw up the camber curve. So instead of the wheel gaining negative camber as it arcs through it's travel you loose camber.
Oh ok I got you. Could I possibly use different control arms from another turbo dodge like the dodge/shelby daytona? I know a lot of the suspension from the daytonas match up.
 

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The 91+ spindles moved the ball joint lower so you could go lower without messing up the camber curve but you have to use the matching kmember and arms. The downside is you gain quite a bit of unsprung weight and energy suspension doesn't make poly bushings for the arms and if the other company that makes them makes them like they make their 89/90 bushings then they're not worth beans.
 

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wow nice car GLHNSLHT but i might want to go a little lower. Any Idea on anything I could do with coilovers? or is that out of the picture? And yellonoma I will definitelly post pics when I do it but I will probably make a build thread because Im gonna do an srt4 swap.
Sounds like my dream k-car lol, good luck with the build.:thumb:
 

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To get it low enough to look right on stretched tires on 15s, your LCAs are going to be a fuggin terrible angle. Ask me how i know.. I had my 89 aries so friggin low i was scraping the pans and dragging soda cans down the road. It was cool other than the ride and handling.

There really isnt a way to get around it with 15s. You can slam the car and theoretically get your LCA angle and roll center back with extended ball joints or ball joint spacers, but the problem is that there isnt that much room to do that with a 15" rim before the LCA just runs into the inside of the rim. There isn't enough room to get it back where it started.

Of course, that doesnt mean it will handle terrible. You can still get your camber and toe right with minor slotting/grinding. The thing is, you will have to make the suspension so stiff that is basically doesnt articulate, and it will ride like shit, and it will turn like shit on rough/broken surfaces. A car doesnt really need suspension movement on a good smooth surface, so if thats the only surface you care about performing on, you can screw your roll center all to hell and still take hard turns.

Anyway, my basic recommendation is to get some new kyb gr2's (or excel g now) for a 1g neon, find a used set of mopar high-rate neon springs, sell the rear springs, and run the neon strut in the front. a 1g neon strut will SLAM the car. I ran a 1g neon strut on mine for a while. You'll also want to get some poly bumpstops from polybushings.com for them, they're cheap and awesome. You'll have to grab a 3.5" holesaw (got mine from lowe's) to drill the top of the strut tower to take the neon strut. It's not too hard. You'll also have to slot the holes where the strut bolts to the spindle to get a camber adjustment there.. stock neon struts have no camber adjustability.

Drag dr-20.. 15x7 in +40, +10, and 0 offset. Im guessing with the look you're going for i'd go with the +10. on a 7.0" wide wheel you are not going to get much stretch without going to a tiny tiny tiny tire. 195/50 and 195/45 are your options, basically, and they wont look very stretched on a 7.0. Of course, i hate stretch so this doesnt bother me much personally.. hehe

Honestly.. if i were you and i was going for that look id see if i could find a 15x8 in the +20 offset region and run a 205/50 for stretch, or a 225/45 if it was me and i didnt want stretch at all.

Ive seen 8" wide an 0 offset and it is too much on these cars, imo.
 

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I already said how it handled repeatedly. Fine on smooth pavement and terrible everywhere else. :p

Now the car has konis, eibachs, aftermarket swaybar, etc etc, but it doesnt LOOK cool (too high).
 

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since its an 83 and 4x100 bolt pattern, it wont be too hard to find a wheel that fits right for that look. Options for that look are EXTREMELY limited in 5x100..

FYI, an 8" wide wheel has to be +35 offset or lower (lower number) in order to not rub on the inside (against front strut housing or rear shock housing), and that's at reasonable/functional negative camber. Negative camber shrinks the distance between the top of the rim and the shock or strut, so the more camber you want to run, the smaller offset you will have to run to get that clearance.. 8" and +35 requires minor fender rolling on most cars, but running 'stretch' tire sizes and a lot of negative camber mitigates the need for clearancing there somewhat.

i think a 15x8 in the +35 to +20 range will suit the look. Probably +20 or around there is ideal. +0 is too much imo, as i said before, and anything higher than +35 will need a wheel spacer to avoid rubbing and you wouldnt be able to run much negative camber.

You could probably pull off a 7" +0 offset but then you wouldnt be able to get tire sizes narrow enough to stretch on it without being way too damn short so id shoot for an 8" wheel.
 
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