Look up Cliff's 2.5 Tlll wagon he built. It was a pretty nasty torque monster set up. But it was a awsome looking set up too.
Making a 2.5l TIII with 88 electronics
Wondering if someone could tell me what you need to do to convert a 2.2 TIII into a 2.5 TIII.
Would it be better to swap the 2.5 crank into a TIII motor or put a TIII head onto a 2.5 shortblock with proper pistons. Also will the stock TIII pistons work with the 2.5 crank?
Where is the best shop to have my TIII head checked and welded if neccessary?
Would it be better to swap the 2.5 crank into a TIII motor or put a TIII head onto a 2.5 shortblock with proper pistons. Also will the stock TIII pistons work with the 2.5 crank?
Where is the best shop to have my TIII head checked and welded if neccessary?
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Andre' Parker said:Look up Cliff's 2.5 Tlll wagon he built. It was a pretty nasty torque monster set up. But it was a awsome looking set up too.
Do you have a link?
http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html
TIII pistons won't work in a 2.5, they would be 6mm too tall.
Daniel Merrill
TIII pistons won't work in a 2.5, they would be 6mm too tall.
Daniel Merrill
Use the TIII block, as the distributor hole is blocked off. All you need is the 2.5L crank and some custom pistons.
All I need is the pistons I have all the other parts (assuming my head is up to snuff). Are they custom only or does someone actually stock 2.5l TIII pistons premade?
I think FM and FWD stock them!
from my personal experience you'd be better off sticking w/ a 2.2 when using the r/t head (depending on piston design and compression ratio of course) because the timing curves in the cals are not completely nailed down and you could run into problems. You may also want to try posting in the r/t section...there are probably some people in there that don't check this area that can help you out.
scott said:from my personal experience you'd be better off sticking w/ a 2.2 when using the r/t head (depending on piston design and compression ratio of course) because the timing curves in the cals are not completely nailed down and you could run into problems. You may also want to try posting in the r/t section...there are probably some people in there that don't check this area that can help you out.
What is better. Going with my RT wiring and rewire my 88 and get a new computer calibrated OR Stick with my 88 wiring, put a distributor on the side and get my 88 electronics calibrated for a 16v
That's if you're going to use the stock 2.2 R/T cal. FWD-P cal pulls a lot more timing under boost than the stocker, so it would probably work well with a 2.5. Larry (4sfed4) and I discussed this, as he has done ALOT of datalogging of their cal. He felt the FWD-P timing curve was really conservative on the 2.2. The timing curve should be about right for my 2.5 TIII, or at least I'm comfortable with it anyway. I would NOT run more than 15 psi on a stock 2.2 R/T cal and 2.5 bottom end though.scott said:from my personal experience you'd be better off sticking w/ a 2.2 when using the r/t head (depending on piston design and compression ratio of course) because the timing curves in the cals are not completely nailed down and you could run into problems. You may also want to try posting in the r/t section...there are probably some people in there that don't check this area that can help you out.
Keep the R/T wiring and computer and splice in the body harness.88-16V-Lebaron said:What is better. Going with my RT wiring and rewire my 88 and get a new computer calibrated OR Stick with my 88 wiring, put a distributor on the side and get my 88 electronics calibrated for a 16v
Well if you were worried about the crank dodge did sell a forged 3.994" crank. It is the pre comonblock crank so you will have to do some mixing and matching of parts to run it in a 89+ block. Heck that would make it a 2.4L, that crank could be used in a hybrid with SRT4 pistons humm.... Here is a sight with them for sale. http://www.flatlanderracing.com/cranksmopar25.html
Daniel Merrill
Daniel Merrill
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