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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

Recently I've had a brake problem in my '89 Daytona Shelby, 2.2 TI turbo engine, A520 5 speed.

First, the front driver side brake pad wore out (definitely screwed over the rotor, replacing the rotor and pads tomorrow).

After, the brakes seemed to work ok, as it was only the front driver with a worn out brake pad.

But recently, the brakes seemed to take a crap completely. The other front pad and rotor, and rear brake pads + rotors are in good shape still. However, I have to almost always press the pedal all the way down to the floor to feel anything.

There is an exception though... If I get on the gas into boost, and then get on the brakes right away after, the brakes seem to work good, as in not pedal all the way to the floor.

Any ideas? Anyone had similar problems? :bash:
 

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The premature wearing of the D/S Pad is not related to a booster/master cylinder problem.This is related to a collapsed rubber brake line,sticking caliper piston or rusted/corroded caliper slide hardware and spindle mounting points.
The pedal going to the floor is air in the system or a faulty hydraulic component.
To test booster function start the car and pump the pedal a couple of times,shut the car off,pump the pedal again,you should get 2-3 pedal pumps before the pedal gets hard,with your foot still on the pedal start the vehicle and the pedal will drop,if all of this happens the booster is good.
Note : A master cylinder that is leaking from the rear will allow brake fluid to enter the booster and will damage the booster diapram.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The premature wearing of the D/S Pad is not related to a booster/master cylinder problem.This is related to a collapsed rubber brake line,sticking caliper piston or rusted/corroded caliper slide hardware and spindle mounting points.
The pedal going to the floor is air in the system or a faulty hydraulic component.
To test booster function start the car and pump the pedal a couple of times,shut the car off,pump the pedal again,you should get 2-3 pedal pumps before the pedal gets hard,with your foot still on the pedal start the vehicle and the pedal will drop,if all of this happens the booster is good.
Note : A master cylinder that is leaking from the rear will allow brake fluid to enter the booster and will damage the booster diapram.
How hard should I be pressing on the pedal while "pumping" it? If I press hard, after doing the brake booster test, it still goes to the floor.

I also checked out the front brakes, the front driver side piston was stuck. I had to put back on the old pads because I only had pads for the newer Daytonas....

There is no leaking brake fluid anywhere, the brake fluid level remains the same.
 

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You have a bad master cylinder, it is not able to create pressure. fix that and bench bleed it before installing it, then bleed the entire system. After correcting that, then check the booster for operation. Odds are it is fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Alright will do. Have a spare MC at home anyway, just gonna be a pain changing it out in the cold.

Also, the rear brakes seem to be working fine..
 
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