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13,441 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Experiencing electrical issue with my car, decide it isn't worth my time to troubleshoot if the issues is at the computers or wiring.

Around $700 into parts so far. Microsquirt ecu, 8 ft harness, E85 sensor, 36-1 wheel, crank sensor, butt connectors, heat shrink, connectors, relays, fuel box, E85 quick connectors, QuadSpark Ignition Module, coil, & etc. Still need high impedance injectors and I'm sure other things.

Going to use batch firing and waste spark.

Separating engine harness with body harness.


All needed wires labeled.

Made bracket for crank sensor, using metal from the shifter bracket on top of the transmission. Will have to reinforce the bracket after the crank is welded to 36-1 wheel.

Marked where the 36-1 wheel needed to be welded to the crank pulley.

Need to find someone to cut the ring gear and weld to the crank pulley.

13,441 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Had to design a beefier new crank sensor bracket.

Engine bay good to go.

Injector resister, on/off idle solenoid

E85 sensor

Boost control solenoid and PCV blowby solenoid (opens at 0psi)

Fuseblocks and PC680 battery


261 Posts
I'm wanting to do a MegaSquirt setup on one of my cars, but I'm just afraid of the wiring of fuse blocks. I doubt I can use the OEM one, so I'd have to take it slow.

13,441 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I'm wanting to do a MegaSquirt setup on one of my cars, but I'm just afraid of the wiring of fuse blocks.
Get yourself some non-insulated butt connectors, crimp tool, heat strink, match box, and you'll wonder why you took so long to convert to fuseblock.

Hardest thing will be finding a place and making a bracket for the fuseblock.

Super Moderator
11,684 Posts
edit , never mind I found it - "only" 170 cca I think I'll pass

any spec's on the battery?

I found a "anti gravity" brand battery - 6 x 5 x 3 x 3.5 pounds , 600 cca .. $400 + with lithium battery charger included

yeah , 400 bucks is a bit rich on price

also looking for stand alone battery terminals for a remote battery install with posts still in the engine compartment

I tried googleing the battery you show but my slow internet connection won't allow anything that came up to load

13,441 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
I just did emission and the car runs cleaner than it ever did on stock computer. I will definitely pick up more MPG as I can set cruising at 16:1 vs stock 13.7-14.1:1 ratio. I noticed when I set ignition timing with stock computer and distributor at idle speed, timing always jumps from between 10 BDC to 14BDC, it would NEVER settle at just 12 BDC like the factory manual calls for. With Microsquirt and a 36-1 wheel, ignition timing is bang on EVERY time.

Very happy with result and money well spent.

Premium Member
90 Posts

If you don't mind me asking, how much money did you spend on the complete conversion? Also how many hours did you spend on the conversion?

Thank you.

13,441 Posts
Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Current total is $1470, though I still have stuff I need to sorted out, which means more $$$. If you plan everything well and have all the parts, you can probably wire the car and started in a weekend. HOWEVER, as this is custom job, you'll come upon custom issue that will stop you dead cold, like making a crank sensor bracket, or get the 36-1 wheel onto the crank, getting parts, ...etc.

Microsquirt + 8 ft harness $369
36-1 wheel $32.00
Weld 36-1 wheel to crank $100
crank sensor $43
QuadSpark $89.00
MAP sensor connector $8.50
MAT sensor connector $10.00
ECT sensor connector $10.00
TPS sensor connector $10.00
420A wires $20
420A coil $20
Wiring Connector packs $30
USB to serial $15
Misc wires $40
Uninsulated crimp $20
Crimp tool $13
Shrink Wrap $10
Misc bolts $15
Relay $15
Fusebox $25
Fuses $5
E85 sensor + connector $80
knocksense $80 - looking to sell it
Injector resister $30
wire loop $20
On/off Solenoid valve for idle control $30
3m tape $6
Tuner Studio + Megaviwer $80
lilknockmeter -$119.95
BOSCH knock sensor 0261231038 -$25.00
TPS connector for knock sensor -$11.95
Balanced crank pulley -$74.31
step down stud for knock sensor N90905502 -$2.49

13,441 Posts
Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
I've been asked about the knock system I use, so I thought I write it down.

MS2/Microsquirt only accept knock sensor with a knock module, and most of the knock modules has only a output of 0-5V digital on/off. I wanted something more, and I found lilknockmeter.

Features of lilknockmeter are:
A set of LEDs from green to yellow to orange and red, giving you the severity of knocks (LED lights is adjustable via software)
Audio jack output (use headphone to listen to knock!)
0-5v on/off digital output
0-5v analogue output
Software to calibrate the lilknockmeter

I was very happy to find lilknockmeter, you will not find another product with all these features and this low price! Product is made in California, great support from the Leonard, the lilknockmeter creator!

I used the parts below for my install.

A knock module call lilknockmeter, https://www.ebay.com/itm/Knock-sensor-gauge-with-audio-full-digital-knock-gauge-turbo-nitrous-/292278629407?hash=item440d29f41f:g:ecAAAOxyUylTUcSv&vxp=mtr, made by Insane Import Performance
a VW BOSCH knock sensor 0261231038 (3 wire knock sensor, signal, ground, and ground for the shielding)
VW N90905502 m10x1.5 to m8x1.25 stud, $2-$3 at VW dealer
M8x1.25 washer
M8x1.25 nut
3 wire BOSCH sensor connector, https://www.ebay.com/itm/B1-Rectangle-Bosch-Style-3-wire-TPS-Sensor-Connector-Pigtail-With-Rubber-Boot/231764156971?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

Stock Chrysler knock sensor is mounted on the intake manifold between number 2 and number 3 runner.
The knock sensor is now mounted at the AC bracket at the block between the 1st and 2nd cylinder.

Lilknockmeter is wired up in the car with 12v, ground,0-5V analogue going to Microsquirt, and the shielded cable going to the knock sensor.

My current lilknockmeter software settings are

Frequency = 6.64kHz (I used this to calculate knock frequency https://www.phormula.com/KnockCalculator.aspx)
Gain = 2.0
Time = 240
Threshold = 0500 (0 to 1024 range, corresponds to 0-5V)
Cylinder = 4

Chrysler uses 0-5 V analogue setup, since I can only set up the LED come on at one voltage, I set it at 2.5V

49 Posts
A few questions on micro squirt...or is it megasquirt?
How to control boost on t1?
Is BOV just for T2?

Is microsquirt scanner friendly for troubleshooting?
triggerwheel and ford dis would be no problem.

Are t1 injectors high or low impedance? any problems there? Thought I read something about another board needed for low imp.
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