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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, I have been dealing with this problem for awhile and can't get rid of it. Every time I go WOT in any gear but first on a roll I get a lot of jerking and cutting in and out at around the 3,500 rpm range. The only time this doesn't happen is when I go WOT through all the gears like when running a quarter mile. my boost setting is at 10 psi and would like to raise it to 14 psi but with the cutting out problem I will barely get to 14 psi before it starts dancing. Any possible suggestions anyone might have would be great. Thanks
 

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Since there is no such thing as a 2.5 TII from the factory, I'm figuring your car has some modifications. You'll need to post specifics on your set-up so that everyone can chime in with educated advice.

For a start:

  1. What fault codes are stored?
  2. What kind of computer are you running?
  3. What kind of fuel/octane are you using?
  4. What is your injector size?
  5. Are you running a wideband? If so, what is your a/f @ WOT?
  6. What kind of fuel pump is in the tank?
  7. Plugs/wires/coil in good shape?
  8. Stock or aftermarket intercooler?

Could keep adding to this list indefinitely. You get the idea...

Based on the limited info, it sounds like one of three possibilities:

  1. At WOT, you're lean, causing detonation. Not good.
  2. Plugs, wires or ignition coil aren't getting the job done.
  3. Your boost gauge is inaccurate or your MAP sensor is seeing more boost in the manifold than you believe and you're hitting fuel cutout.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I had forged internals installed in the motor with the stock mitsu turbo rebuilt from turbonetics. I also have 2.5 inch exhaust w/o a cat and installed a stock intercooler from a shelby daytona. The fuel system is stock but I have do have a turboxs boost controller and bov. I messed with the boost controller a bit to see if that helped but it didn't do anything. However, I do get boost cut at around 15 psi so thats why I figured my boost gauge was pretty accurate. Also, the car does not read any fault codes when I hook it up to a code reader. I have used a variety of fuel/octanes and nothing seems to change. Distributer, car, rotor, plugs, and wires are all brand new.
 

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Are you running a stock TI computer? By stock fuel system, I assume stock injectors, TI fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump? How old is your fuel filter? Is the ground for the injectors near the FPR in good shape?

Has the car ever completely died on you for no apparent reason? Just driving down the road, and complete loss of power for a second before everything comes back on?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I am running the stock TI computer, stock TI injectors, fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump. The fuel filter is new and I checked over the grounds they were pretty clean but I cleaned em up anyways to see if it helped but nothing changed. The car has never completely died it just bucks really bad like it is a fuel cut but worse. I also tired just keeping it at WOT and the bucking doesn't go away until I let off.
 

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Stay away from WOT for now.

Has to be one of a couple things:

1) Spark isn't correct - Could be timing, bad plug or gapped wrong. You said wires, plugs and coil are all good. Have you checked gap? Is ignition timing at 12' BTDC?

2) A/F ratio is lean - Much bigger issue. Excessive lean mixture can melt pistons. Have you tested your fuel pressure at static, idle and WOT to ensure enough pressure in the rail under all conditions? Get a gauge that can be hooked to the shrader valve and test your pressure. If pressure is good across the full range, then the issue might be with a faulty injector. If pressure isn't correct, then your FPR or pump might not be doing their job correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Gap and timing are both good so I suppose my next check is gunna need to be with the air/fuel ratio. Thanks for all your guys help I appreciate it, I'll check it out over the weekend and post my findings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok so I went out to buy an air/fuel gauge and turns out my brother-in-law had one in a car he bought awhile ago but was never hooked up and he said I could have it. Only problem is the wires are only about an inch long out the back of the gauge and I have no clue on how to wire it. The three wires out the back are black, red, and purple. Thanks again for your help.
 

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One wire is for power, needs to be tied into a keyed power source that shuts off when the keys off, like the radio power wire. (Red)

The second is just a ground wire. Wire directly to the frame or to the battery. (Black or green usually)

The third should be illumination, you can hook this into the dash light switch to get lighting/dimming for the gauge. Someone here such as Naj would know which wire would be best suited for that. (Normally yellow or orange)

And finally the last remaining wire goes to the o2 sensor voltage wire. It will need spliced into the wire, and ran to the gauge. Make sure you aren't accidentall splicing it to the heater sensor if this is a 3 or 4 wire o2 sensor.

Consult the info for the gause if you can get it, for the proper wire configuraton/colorings.

What brand and model is the gauge?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The gauge is a white faced Autometer. Not sure on the model cuz I couldn't seem to locate a model number or name. Also, the gauge only has three wires so I'm guessing purple goes to the o2 sensor and red does both power and illumination maybe? I was also wondering if I need to have a wideband o2 sensor for this gauge to work or will a stock sensor do the trick?
 

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The gauge is a white faced Autometer. Not sure on the model cuz I couldn't seem to locate a model number or name. Also, the gauge only has three wires so I'm guessing purple goes to the o2 sensor and red does both power and illumination maybe? I was also wondering if I need to have a wideband o2 sensor for this gauge to work or will a stock sensor do the trick?
If the gauge does not have illumination then it may not have a 4th wire. Also if it is digital I don't know if you can "turn down" the intensitiy of the light as it always has to be on (technically) to have a visible reading
 
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