Turbo Dodge Forums banner

1 - 20 of 86 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
269 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Well guys, here is where I'm at on this project that has gotten a little out of hand.

I bought an 1986 Dodge Omni GLH from a guy in Utah. He advised that it "needed a new fuel pump, and it should run..." Not to say he lied because it did need a new pump, however, that was definitely not all it needed to "run".

Long story short I got it to do just that...run... Sorta... I drove it around a parking lot a few times. Except every time I drove it one of the fuseable links would burn up. I understand that they are there to protect more expensive things from burning up but I think mine were so brittle and old they were just breaking.

I talked to a couple guys around where I live and they suggested to replace the fuseable links with a fuse box from another vehicle.

I went to the pick and pull and found a very simple maxi style fuse box with 8 or so fuses. I read up on the loads for the fuseable links and matched them to the maxi fuses. I even made a crude wiring schematic. So I hooked it all up and....

It cranks but no fuel. I know I have good solid spark to the plugs and the timing wasn't messed with since it was running. I basically just wired the fuses in place of the fuseable links.

I checked voltage to the pump and there is voltage to the gauge but not to the pump itself.

I made a jumper wire for the pump to see if it would come on and I heard a solenoid click in the engine bay but I never heard the pump actually turn on.

I'm overwhelmed and frustrated with the car and need to get it running soon or the wife is going to get rid of it.

I need some help. Thanks in advance and I can get some pics or videos if they would help. I did all this before I noticed the STICKY fuseable link thread.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
something is not right somewhere and usually if the fusible link is burning, there is a short or excessive electrical draw on the system. Some time with a VOM I think would be appropriate. To me it sounds like a bad relay or wiring to the fuel pump
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
24,577 Posts
I am going to play devils advocate here and go the other direction just for giggles and we are going to go one step at a time.

With the key on/engine off manually actuate the ASD relay and tell me what happens or if you have power at the + coil, fuel pump and injectors.

To manually actuate the ASD relay...
1)Locate the underhood diagnostic connector.
2)With the key on/engine off ground the DB/YL wire in the diagnostic connector.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
269 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I finally got a chance to work on the OMNI and went threw the steps you provided NAJ and I found power at the coil, injectors, and fuel pump.... AFTER i found a ground wire dangling between the firewall and the exhaust manifold....

I now have fuel to the rail and injectors.

I still tested the coil during cranking and the test light illuminated. I then put it on the (-) terminal and it flashed during cranking.

Once I went through these steps I went to start the car and it sputtered and backfired! Progress I thought!

I cranked the car again and it ran for about 5 seconds and died as soon as I pressed the gas pedal. I am going to replace the spark plugs and change the oil and try again.

Thanks for the help I'll report back once I get the "tune up" done. Is there anything else I should check?
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
24,577 Posts
The ground wire that was disconnected is the main controller ground and will cause a lot of issues including your no start.

Be sure you have good spark at the spark plugs. before proceeding.
(Using an adjustable spark tester is the easiest/safest way)
You may still have fuel sitting in the cylinders so remove all plugs, ground the coil secondary wire to the block(or connect to your adjustable spark tester) and hold the throttle wide open(this is "clear flood mode" and will prevent the injectors from opening) and crank the engine to displace any liquid fuel that may be sitting in the cylinders.
Once that is done replace the plugs and oil/filter.
When you start the car you may have to lightly feather the throttle to keep the car running if there is still excess fuel that needs to be burnt off.

ADJUSTABLE SPARK TESTER
http://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/ignition-tester/great-neck-adjustable-ignition-spark-tester/10257_0_0/

Good Luck and Keep Us Posted.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
269 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Did some tinkering today.

I got the adjustable spark tester, neat tool but mine was made very poorly... However, I was able to confirm good solid spark at each plug.

I drained the old oil which smelled like a mixture of gasoline and oil. I also switched the filter and plugs.

Once I did this the omni started fairly easily... but it revved up pretty high then died. It did this a couple times every time it died it backfired through the throttle body.

I also attempted to feather the throttle to keep it running but it would die as soon as i touched the pedal. Huge vacuum leak?

The car does not have the air filter or airbox installed. It also only has a downpipe from the turbo.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
866 Posts
Well guys, here is where I'm at on this project that has gotten a little out of hand.

I bought an 1986 Dodge Omni GLH from a guy in Utah. He advised that it "needed a new fuel pump, and it should run..." Not to say he lied because it did need a new pump, however, that was definitely not all it needed to "run".

Long story short I got it to do just that...run... Sorta... I drove it around a parking lot a few times. Except every time I drove it one of the fuseable links would burn up. I understand that they are there to protect more expensive things from burning up but I think mine were so brittle and old they were just breaking.

I talked to a couple guys around where I live and they suggested to replace the fuseable links with a fuse box from another vehicle.

I went to the pick and pull and found a very simple maxi style fuse box with 8 or so fuses. I read up on the loads for the fuseable links and matched them to the maxi fuses. I even made a crude wiring schematic. So I hooked it all up and....

It cranks but no fuel. I know I have good solid spark to the plugs and the timing wasn't messed with since it was running. I basically just wired the fuses in place of the fuseable links.

I checked voltage to the pump and there is voltage to the gauge but not to the pump itself.

I made a jumper wire for the pump to see if it would come on and I heard a solenoid click in the engine bay but I never heard the pump actually turn on.

I'm overwhelmed and frustrated with the car and need to get it running soon or the wife is going to get rid of it.

I need some help. Thanks in advance and I can get some pics or videos if they would help. I did all this before I noticed the STICKY fuseable link thread.

The wires that attach to the pump threw the rubber cap under rear seat may be broken or disconnected in tank....Is bad connection points ?

fuel pump relay wire in plug connector bad iiii dark blue wire ignition run relay.
Ignition key module on steering col. blue and green wires to module under dash steering wheel .

FUSEBAL LINK are grey relay 15Gornge /red.15Gorange/

Blue ign. run 20Glightgrey ,,Id try this wire as well for fuse burning out ? controls the fuel pump running relay ?
/ red,wite power 20Glight grey

\/// Bat. charge white cable conector *** 25G Postive dark,red **** \\\this WIRE may be the one that burns out in the FUSES in the box you put in? \\\ /split pinkblak. 15Gorange .......


A brand new harness from Chrysler plant is $1,800.00USD plug and play OEM Part ITs for a 1986 Omni glhs.

ALL THREE main HARNESSES in engine bay.
list $2,258,00USD Showing ALL New OEM PARTS 2left/ 1body/ 2front/ 1super60/ 1fuseabel link/GLHS *86 GLH '85./

Vac..lines 1/8,,1/4,, no line split connectors though.... hard to find auto part so this might help!

I m not 100 on stuff but points to check out in the wires
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
24,577 Posts
Backfire through the intake is going to be caused by...
1)Ignition Crossfire or Firing Order Not Correct
2)Cam/Ignition Timing Not Correct
3)Running Rich...
a)Map Sensor Issue(Pneumatic or Electrical)
b)High Fuel Pressure
c)Coolant Temp Sensor Out Of Range
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
269 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
thanks mike0007! Im going to attempt to patch up the old harness and get it running. Hopefully ill be able to buy a new harness when I get the car going. It sure would be nice to get ride of all the dry rotted wires and loom!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
269 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Okay so I did this



and this in an effort to get the timing dialed in.



I did discover that the belt was a few teeth off a problem in which I remedied.

However now when I try to start it now it goes GLUB-GLUB-BAM!-GLUB-BAM! And is backfiring something fierce out the tail pipe.

The plug wires are correct (passenger 1-2-3-4 Driver) Firing order (1-3-4-2)...

Went from coughing through the intake to backfiring out the tailpipe.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
24,577 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
269 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
I was going back through everything and noticed that the oil pump shaft alignment was off. When I line up the dots the oil pump shaft is not exactly but close to 90* off. I haven't looked into why this would be or a way to fix it yet, because it was dinner time!

This time around I will also mark the center line of the cam sprocket cover to be sure its correct. Also my cam sprocket hole is not an oval like shown in the manual or in NAJ's picture its just a circle. Not sure if that makes a difference.

Thanks for the link NAJ I will go over it tonight.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
24,577 Posts
Just remember that the Cam Sprocket slot gets aligned at 12 o'clock center with the head but the head is on an angle so it will not be 12-6, it will be closer to 11-5, once set you need to rotate the crank 2 revolutions clockwise by hand bringing #1 back to TDC with the mark on flywheel at 0 and recheck the position of the Cam Sprocket and belt tension.
You need to do this each time you make an adjustment.
1 tooth = 9 degrees so if you are off...

If the intermediate shaft is not properly aligned/parallel to the block someone may have had the oil pump out and did not properly position it during the re-install.

If that is the case just turn the intermediate shaft so it is parallel to the block and place a new mark on the sprocket with a paint marker and align the new mark with the crank sprocket mark and then your distributor will be properly oriented.

During the mark alignment recheck be sure the distributor rotor is pointing to #1 cylinder on the distributor cap.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
269 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
okay good news for once. After checking everything the car started without much issue. I dont think there was much fuel in the tank and once I added some it started much easier.

Once started it stays started, which is an improvement from the last time it "ran". However, now it idles around 1500 rpm for a few seconds then drops almost killing the car, it stumbles for a second then revs back up to 1500rpm. (I can post a video if it would help)

It seems like a vacuum issue to me like a MAF or MAP problem...? Thanks for the help so far we are finally getting somewhere.

MOST Importantly, my wife heard and saw it run and it actual made her smile!
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
24,577 Posts
It appears that as the controller lowers the idle speed the car does not want to run, this can be caused by numerous things...
1)Cam/Ignition Timing
2)Fuel Pressure
3)Vacuum Leak

Are any fault codes stored in memory?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,036 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
269 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
I believe I have the following codes:

11 crankshaft signal or ignition signal, no reference signal during cranking
12 memory to controller has been cleared within 50-100 engine starts
23 air charge temp sensor voltage high/low detected

Here's a video of the process to make sure I'm doing it right. Well... its taking longer than I thought to upload it to Google Drive so I'll post it as soon as its done...
 
1 - 20 of 86 Posts
Top