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CODE 11
Code 11 will set after the battery is disconnected and will stay in memory until the engine is cranked.
If the controller does not see a crank/rpm signal from the HEP the code will remain.
Was the engine cranked and the car did not start and the code remains?

CODE 23
Do you actually have an Air Charge Temp Sensor, I do not see one for an Omni in my wiring diagrams, the wiring may be there from the factory but the car does not use the sensor, this will set the code but not create any driveabilty issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I disconnected the battery and put it on a charger. I never tried to start it before I checked for the codes. I'll have to check on the air charge temp sensor tomorrow.

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Discussion Starter #24
I did some more looking around and I found this. I noticed oil seeping out from around the cover on the driver's side of the head. When I removed the cover I found this. It looks like a seal that wasn't properly installed or the wrong one possibly?







The car is still running the same. I have not checked the timing using a light yet because I don't have one. Do yall have a suggestion on a good one to buy? Im also not real clear on how to use the light. Everything I have read refers to timing marks on a pulley or dampener. I see where I'm suppose to point the light but I have not seen any marks to be able to reference...

Thanks for all the continued help on this long journey.
 

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CAM SEAL
That is the rear cam seal and it is common for them to pop out when they get old.
Happened to me driving to work back in 07/08, luckily I was only 1/4 from work, lost 3 qts of oil in that 1/4 mile.

Get a new seal or cam cap, clean all oil from the housing that the seal sits in using brake cleaner, apply a non- hardening sealer such as Permatex #2 or Permatex Aviation Cement on the outside metal housing of the seal, place it in the opening and tap it in evenly.

http://www.autozone.com/internal-engine/camshaft-oil-seal/dodge/omni/1986/4-cylinders-e-2-2l-fi-turbo?filterByKeyWord=cam+seal&fromString=search

https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/permatex-form-a-gasket-no-2-sealant/

https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/permatex-aviation-form-a-gasket-no-3-sealant-liquid/




IGNITION TIMING AND TIMING LIGHT
You only need a basic timing light, you do not need anything with a digital display tach, advance meter, etc. and they are not difficult to use.
I bought mine back in the 80's at Sears and still have it.
You will only use it again if you do a timing belt, remove the cylinder head, remove/replace the distributor, etc.
You connect the 2 clamps to the + and - battery, and the pickup goes around the plug wire on #1 cylinder.
Start the car and with the engine running disconnect the Coolant Temp Sensor connector, this puts the car in "failure" or "limp in mode" and brings spark advance to "base timing".
Also, the cooling fan should cycle on and the power loss lamp should illuminate.
Now point the timing light at the timing mark opening in the bell housing and you will see a solid line on the flywheel.
That mark should align with 12 (degrees before top dead center).
If it is not aligned loosen the distributor hold down bolt and slowly turn the distributor until the timing mark aligns with 12.
Once timing is properly set tighten the distributor hold down bolt, recheck timing, adjust if needed, when done shut engine off and then reconnect the coolant temp sensor connector.
Restart car, power loss lamp should be off, a code 22 will be set in memory.

You can get one at Harbor Frieght for $17.99 (???) from an online tool company, local parts supplier, amazon, eBay, etc.
Back in about 2006 I stopped buying from Snap-On, Matco, Mac because their prices are stupidly high so for common items I started buying from Tooltopia.com.

HARBOR FRIEGHT
Xenon Timing Light

TOOLTOPIA.COM
Great deal on Electronic Specialties 150 at ToolTopia.com

AUTOZONE
http://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/timing-light/innova-digital-timing-light/108151_0_0/?checkfit=true

CHECKING/SETTING IGNITION TIMING


 

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Discussion Starter #26
I have been working one the Omni again with a friend and we got it going a lot better but still not quite there.

We removed the oil pan and re clocked the distributor so it was horizontal to the block and lined up with the no. 1 cylinder. Lined the two dots back up and turned it on. It fired right up no backfiring.

The timing light showed the mark at about 6-8 at "idle". It still seems to idle a bit high but I'm not sure. I ran out of adjustment at the dizzy turning it counter clockwise. So I guess the cam shat is off a tooth or two still?

I have a video I'll up load later to show what I've got going on.
 

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Assuming you disconnected the CTS with the engine running to bring timing to base...

If you have to turn the distributor that far the intermediate shaft is still not properly aligned.

Bring #1 to TDC on a compression stroke being sure the timing mark on the flywheel is at 0.
Is the mark on the intermediate shaft aligned with the mark on the crank sprocket?
Is the distributor rotor pointing to #1 cylinder on the cap with the distributor in the proper position?

If not
Move the distributor back to its normal position(parallel to the block).
Turn the intermediate shaft until the rotor is aligned with #1 on the distributor cap and make a new mark on the intermediate shaft to align with the mark on the crank sprocket.
Install the belt, rotate the crank 2 revolutions clockwise by hand bringing #1 back to TDC with the flywheel mark at 0 and recheck mark alignment and belt tension.
Repeat until correct.

Start the car. warm to operating temp, with engine running disconnect the CTS connector (power loss lamp illuminates, cooling fan cycles on), check/set ignition timing, shut engine off and then reconnect CTS.







 

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I followed Jan's (NAJ) advice and troubleshooting guidelines because I had a similar problem.
It was a weak pump and a bad ASD relay in the power module.
Follow his steps and you'll fix the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Me too! Haha

Well did some more work on the Omni and had good results everything seems to be better lined up.

I was unable to get the car to operating temperature do to fact that life is continuing to happen around me...

I still have to hook up all the accessories and apparently replace the fan and radiator due to a leak and the fan bearing being its final annoying loud leg. (I should have a spare around somewhere)

Hopefully I'll get back to it this week sometime and will have good results! Fingers crossed!
 

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Discussion Starter #32
ALLLLLLLLLLLRIGHT ALREADY!!!

Something positive needs to happen soon during this GLH build... So i leak checked my radiator and everything was good. Then I replaced the fan because its bearing is toast. All was going smoothly until I went to re-install the alternator and the belt....

The freaking "tensioner" bolt setup stripped out. The removable clip on the alternator bracket stripped out and KO'd the bolt too. Does anyone know where I can find this clip thing? My idea is to weld a nut to the back of the alternator bracket and get a new bolt to use. Are there any better ideas floating around out there?
 

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I cannot help you much with this issue however here is an exploded view of the alternator mounting so you can point out exactly which items you need.

 

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Discussion Starter #34
Well I'm back... not that any of you knew that I was gone but I have a fairly good excuse for not working on the GLH. My wife and I took 6 months off work and literally traveled around the world. But I'm back and settled into working and making money to fund this disease called a hobby.

When I left off I had it running-ish and stripped the alternator tensioner. I replaced that and put it all back together to find out something was still amiss. I tore it back down and checked everything for the 100th time and noticed something I'm a little embarrassed to admit.

In the picture from "the book" NAJ posted I only paid attention to the DOT on the cam, the DOT on the crank, and the DOT on the intermediate shaft.... I never paid attention to the two arrows on either side of the cam sprocket that should point to the seam in the head. Well once I noted the obvious advise. It ran really well and stayed running long enough for me to hit it with the timing light. I got it dialed in so that the Line With The Dot is hitting at 0 with the CTS unplugged.

Hopefully I have this part of it figured out. Ill be re-reading a couple things on here to double check my work for next week when I get to work on the car again. Thanks to everyone for helping me this far. We might just get this lil' car all sorted out after all!!!

D. Schick
 

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That will split and distribute vacuum to the solenoids on the passenger inner fender area. the smaller nipple pointed out the back goes to the fuel pressure regulator.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
That will split and distribute vacuum to the solenoids on the passenger inner fender area. the smaller nipple pointed out the back goes to the fuel pressure regulator.
Where does it plug into at the vacuum solenoids? I have a jumbled up mess over there and no line that is unplugged.

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Discussion Starter #40
Thanks I figured it out and THINK I have all my vacuum lines hooked back up. I began tidying up all the wiring and vacuum lines and it's starting to look better. I got all the accessories hooked back up and belts tightened down.

BUUUUT

When I went to start it a relay clicks and nothing. I noticed when I turn the keep to "run" the BRAKE idiot light illuminates. The relay that clicks is the starter relay.

I did some hunting and the only questionable thing I could find was one of the white 3 pronged pigtails to the distributor was looking pretty warn where the wires go into the plug. Thinking about cutting both pigtails off and making a weather-pak style plug on both ends.

Good idea or not?

Thanks for the help!
DJ

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