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Clicks when turning key to the start position...

First...
1)Is the battery fully charged (12.60 volts) and will it hold a load?
(If not sure take it to AZ and have it charged and tested)
2)Are both cables/battery posts clean (inside and outside) and tight on both ends.
If Yes to both 1 and 2...
Then you can check/test the starter relay and wiring.
3)The Starter Relay has two 12 volt power feeds, ground and power output to the starter solenoid.
Red - 12 Volt Battery Supply through Fusible Link.
Yellow - 12 Volts From Ignition Switch (Will only be powered with the key in the "start" position)
Brown/Yellow - Ground (Bolted to transaxle on MT, through Neutral Saftey Switch on AT)
Brown - 12 Volt Output to Starter Solenoid.
4)If you have 12 volts on the RD and YL wires, continuity to ground on the BN/YL wire (less than 5 ohms) and do not have 12 volts on the BN output wire replace the relay.
5)If you have 12 volts on the RD and YL wires, continuity to ground on the BN/YL wire and 12 volts on the BN wire the relay is good, check power to the starter on the + battery cable and solenoid wire at the starter.
If you have proper power at the starter and the wires/cables are clean/tight replace the starter.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Clicks when turning key to the start position...

First...
1)Is the battery fully charged (12.60 volts) and will it hold a load?
(If not sure take it to AZ and have it charged and tested)
2)Are both cables/battery posts clean (inside and outside) and tight on both ends.
If Yes to both 1 and 2...
Then you can check/test the starter relay and wiring.
3)The Starter Relay has two 12 volt power feeds, ground and power output to the starter solenoid.
Red - 12 Volt Battery Supply through Fusible Link.
Yellow - 12 Volts From Ignition Switch (Will only be powered with the key in the "start" position)
Brown/Yellow - Ground (Bolted to transaxle on MT, through Neutral Saftey Switch on AT)
Brown - 12 Volt Output to Starter Solenoid.
4)If you have 12 volts on the RD and YL wires, continuity to ground on the BN/YL wire (less than 5 ohms) and do not have 12 volts on the BN output wire replace the relay.
5)If you have 12 volts on the RD and YL wires, continuity to ground on the BN/YL wire and 12 volts on the BN wire the relay is good, check power to the starter on the + battery cable and solenoid wire at the starter.
If you have proper power at the starter and the wires/cables are clean/tight replace the starter.
I have 10.89 on the red wire. 4.9 on the yellow wire. And the battery says 12.25

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Discussion Starter #43
Disregard that last post I have 12.10 at the red and yellow wires.

I have 1.5 ohms on the b/y wire and nothing at the brown wire. So I assume it's the relay that's bad?
 

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So even though the relay is clicking it still could be bad?

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Yes.
You have correct voltage on both power feeds and continuity to ground but nothing on the output wire so the relay must be bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
I got it running again and now it's surging. On first attempt to startup when cold it revs to around 900rpm then dies. 2nd attempt same thing. 3rd attempt it revs then drops to like 100rpm but keeps itself alive.

Once running it surges between 200 and 1000 rpm.

I am almost certain I have the timing correct. I lined those bad boys up.

What should I check next?


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I am almost certain I have the timing correct. I lined those bad boys up.



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If Cam and Ignition Timing have both been verified correct then your next steps in order would be...
1)Fault Codes
2)Vacuum Leaks/Map Sensor Calibration/Pressure
3)Fuel Pressure
4)Controller Ground Circuits

CAM AND IGNITION TIMING
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f14/359212-cam-timing-belt-tension-84-95-a.html

MAP SENSOR CALIBRATION/PRESSURE
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f14/344296-code-13-diagnostics.html

FUEL PRESSURE
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f14/358339-checking-fuel-pressure-84-93-turbo.html

ELECTRICAL- Main Controller Ground 84-89.jpg

86 Turbo Vacuum.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #48
If Cam and Ignition Timing have both been verified correct then your next steps in order would be...
1)Fault Codes
2)Vacuum Leaks/Map Sensor Calibration/Pressure
3)Fuel Pressure
4)Controller Ground Circuits

CAM AND IGNITION TIMING
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f14/359212-cam-timing-belt-tension-84-95-a.html

MAP SENSOR CALIBRATION/PRESSURE
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f14/344296-code-13-diagnostics.html

FUEL PRESSURE
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f14/358339-checking-fuel-pressure-84-93-turbo.html

View attachment 239850

View attachment 239858
Here's all my timing marks.


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Discussion Starter #49
Here is the only vacuum line I can find that's open. It's under the throttle body. The first picture is of the entire area the second is of the vacuum line coming off of the part. I'm not sure where that is suppose to go. It seems like some kind of check valve or something.


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Discussion Starter #50
I guess it's the back pressure transducer... According to this picture the vacuum line goes back to the throttle body


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Discussion Starter #51
How does this coil spark look? Just curious if it could be part of my problem. Because when I look at my timing marks with the light the timing mark is inconsistent. It'll be there two times then gone the third or seems to hit every other time.

Here's a video of the spark from the coil. It's jumping a gap set at 25.

Link to the video below

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gELu93553xfRV_TRNiZ8Tqh7TUIL1-0A/view?usp=drivesdk

Thanks

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I am unable to watch the video.

If you are using an adjustable spark tester set to 25 KV and the spark is blue and jumping the gap with no issue at all 4 plugs the ignition system is OK.

There is no way to check/test spark plugs other than a scope or physical inspection.

As far as ignition timing you need to disconnect the CTS with the engine running to get timing to base to view the timing mark.

If the mark is jumping around while at base timing and the ignition system checks OK either the timing belt is loose or there is something loose in the distributor.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
I am unable to watch the video.

If you are using an adjustable spark tester set to 25 KV and the spark is blue and jumping the gap with no issue at all 4 plugs the ignition system is OK.

There is no way to check/test spark plugs other than a scope or physical inspection.

As far as ignition timing you need to disconnect the CTS with the engine running to get timing to base to view the timing mark.

If the mark is jumping around while at base timing and the ignition system checks OK either the timing belt is loose or there is something loose in the distributor.
I read your other post about how to tension the belt and my belt is constantly on the outside edge. I'll loosen the belt and it'll hardly move inward. The only time it moved the belt was so loose I could twist it more than half way around.

I'll be at the shop tomorrow. I'll try to get a video of the timing marks, spark test, and the belt tension. Hopefully I can figure out how to post the videos.

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I would not be to concerned about where the belt is riding on the sprocket at this time.
As long as you are sure the Cam and Ignition Timing are correct move on to the next steps in the diagnostics process unless of course the original issue has been resolved.
 

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And if the oval slot in the cam sprocket is at the correct position with the cylinder head (12 o'clock center with the cylinder head) and the mark on the flywheel is at 0 then you are good.

ENGINE-2.2L-2.5L Timing Belt 4.jpg

IMAGE-Timing Marks 2.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #57
I worked on the Omni again over that past two days and I have the timing correct FINALLY. I believe all the marks line up, I may be a tooth off on the intermediate shaft still. I am still having a problem with starting the car. On a dead cold start (29*) it takes three tries to get the car to start and run. The first try it just turns over, try two it'll turn over crank and immediately die, try three it'll fire right up and idle.

The reason I think the intermediate shaft is still off a tooth is because of the starting problem and the fact that I have the distributor turned counter clockwise until its hitting the housing. This being said the timing marks when running look good.

I start the car and let it warm up. Then I disconnect the sensor to put into "Limp home mode". Then I hit it with the timing light. The mark comes up between 11 and 12. The I shut the car off plug the sensor back in and turn it back on. Sometimes it takes 3 tries as stated above. Once the car is running it stays on until I shut it off. (Which is an improvement)

Now for the bad... While I was still tinkering on the car I went to start it again and I didn't hear the fuel pump prime. I try to start it and it'll turn over but won't run. So I try a few more times and still won't start. I got my jumper wire as written by NAJ many times and manually actuated the ASD relay. It will usually click when I ground the circuit but there was no clicking. I checked for power to the coil and fuel pump but there was none.

Correct me if I'm wrong but in cars of this year the ASD relay is incorporated into either the Logic Module or Power Module in the engine bay of these cars? And if it's kaput do I have to replace the whole module?

Thanks to anyone that reads my rant and can point me in the right direction.
 

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Your "3" times cranking to get the car to start and run sounds like it may be a fuel pressure issue which would/could be related to your ASD issue.

Although the ASD relay is integral to the PM ground side control of the relay is done by the LM.

Before condemning the controller(s) you need to verify all power feeds are present into the controllers and all controller ground circuits have continuity (less than 5 ohms) to ground.
You also need to verify there are no connection/terminal issues (especially with the LM) such as corroded/loose/pushed out/cracked/broken terminals.

85-87 PM 10 Pin.jpg

85-87 PM 12 Pin.jpg

85-87 LM Turbo Red.jpg

85-87 LM Turbo Blue.jpg

ELECTRICAL- Main Controller Ground 84-89.jpg
 

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The reason I think the intermediate shaft is still off a tooth is because of the starting problem and the fact that I have the distributor turned counter clockwise until its hitting the housing. This being said the timing marks when running look good.

I start the car and let it warm up. Then I disconnect the sensor to put into "Limp home mode". Then I hit it with the timing light. The mark comes up between 11 and 12. The I shut the car off plug the sensor back in and turn it back on. Sometimes it takes 3 tries as stated above. Once the car is running it stays on until I shut it off. (Which is an improvement)
The intermediate shaft could be 5 tooth off, as long as you can get the ignition timing at 12 degree, it doesn't matter where the shaft is.
 
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