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Discussion Starter #61
Your "3" times cranking to get the car to start and run sounds like it may be a fuel pressure issue which would/could be related to your ASD issue.

Although the ASD relay is integral to the PM ground side control of the relay is done by the LM.

Before condemning the controller(s) you need to verify all power feeds are present into the controllers and all controller ground circuits have continuity (less than 5 ohms) to ground.
You also need to verify there are no connection/terminal issues (especially with the LM) such as corroded/loose/pushed out/cracked/broken terminals.

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When I check all the pins do I ground the ASD relay again then check? Also is this as easy as a test light into each pin?

Im assuming KOEO when doing the tests.
 

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Key On/Engine Off
ASD not actuated
Use a Digital Multi-Meter, you are looking for 12 volts (battery voltage) on the power feeds and power outputs and less than 5 ohms resistance on the ground circuits.
 

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CONTROLLER POWER FEEDS
PM 10 PIN CONNECTOR CAVITY #
2 - DB 12 Volt Input from Ignition Switch
3 - DB 12 Volt Output to LM
4 - PK 12 Volt Input from Battery

PM 12 PIN CONNECTOR CAVITY #
6 - RD/WT 12 Volt Output to LM

LM RED CONNECTOR CAVITY #
7 and 8 DB 12 Volt Input from PM

LM BLUE CONNECTOR CAVITY #
2 and 22 RD/WT 12 Volt Input from PM



CONTROLLER GROUND CIRCUITS
PM 10 PIN CONNECTOR CAVITY #
9 and 10 - BK

PM 12 PIN CONNECTOR CAVITY #
2 - BK/LB

LM RED CONNECTOR CAVITY #
24 - BK

LM BLUE CONNECTOR CAVITY #
7 and 8 - LB/RD

Once you have completed testing the controller power and ground circuits depending on what you find we will move on from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #64
Ok. I should be working one the car next Tuesday again. I'll do some checking and report back.

Thanks again everyone for the help!

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #65
Here's what I got:
PM (10 PIN)
2 - DB/ Input from IGN switch = 11.94v
3 - DB/ Output to LM = 0v
4 - PK/ Input to BATT = 11.94v

PM (12 PIN)
6 - RD/WHT/ Output to LM = 0v

Red LM
7&8 - BL/WHT/ Input from PM =0v

Blue LM
2&22 - RD/WHT/ Input from PM = 0v

Ground:
PM (10 PIN)
9&10 - BLK/ 1.0 Ohm

PM (12 PIN)
2 - BLK/ LB / .08 Ohm

Red LM
24 - BLK/ .08 Ohm

Blue LM
7 - LB/RD/ .07 Ohm
8 - LB/RD/ .07Ohm


Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #66
That being said though, before I did all the testing I turned the key on with the engine off and I heard the fuel pump prime. So I tried to start it and three tries later it started and ran until I shut it off.

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According to your voltage readings you have/had multiple issues that are no longer there since the car started and ran.
From everything you have posted especially in post #66 I can only assume you had a terminal connection issue that was corrected when you were testing voltages.

I would suggest you restart the car and perform a wiggle test on the wiring at the PM to see if you can get the car to sputter or stall.
 

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Discussion Starter #68
Wiggle test is a test I can perform no problem! I'll be back on the car tomorrow.

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Discussion Starter #69
I'm back on the GLH again and I realigned all the timing marks and set the timing mark at 0. Started the car and was able to get the car to idle at 12* with the coolant temp sensor disconnected.

There wasn't any surging like there was before. But when I shut it down to restart it with the coolant temp sensor back in it wouldn't start.

I had a friend crank it and I had my hand on the distributor and rotated it counter clockwise and it fired right up. I disconnected the sensor again and lined the timing mark back up at 12*. Shut it off and had the same problem.

When cranking the motor over there is 0 (zero) fuel pressure at the Port on the rail. While it's running it has a fluctuating 50ish psi.

Is the pressure normally like that?

Thanks
DJ

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Fuel pressure is fluctuating because engine vacuum is fluctuating due to the poor running condition.
(Total Running Fuel Pressure on an MPFI is a combination of push (rail pressure) and pull (engine vacuum) across the tip of the injector and as engine pressure (vacuum/boost) constantly change while driving so does rail pressure.
The FPR does this to maintain 53-57 PSI across the tip of the injector)

Bring #1 cylinder to TDC on a compression stroke and align the mark on the flywheel with 0 and be sure all timing marks align properly and that the distributor rotor is pointing to #1 cylinder on the cap.

If all marks and the rotor are properly aligned then be sure there is not any excessive side to side movement of the distributor shaft and be sure the shutter wheel in the distributor is secure and not coming loose.
 

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Discussion Starter #71
So i'm on the GLH again and now I'm not seeing any spark at the plugs/wires. I went to NAJ's No start, No Spark sticky and followed his instructions until #2. It says the coil should have a resistance between 3000 and 5000. I assume that is talking about the secondary resistance between the (+) and where the coil wire plugs in. I am getting 10.2 k Ohms which I believe is 10,200 Ohms. For the primary resistance i'm getting 1.5 Ohms. I don't know if this could be the problem or if I need to keep hunting.

As usual thanks for any help ya'll can provide.
 

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Are you sure you are following my no start diagnostics, does not sound like mine.

 

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Well I stumbled upon this thread and skimmed through it. Couple observations... In post # 55, your picture shows the distributor in backwards! This is one reason why your distributor hits the head and doesn't allow it to reach 12° (lol). Second observation is you have a 85 distributor in a supposed 86 GLHT. Either the distributor is wrong for the car, or you actually have a 86 GLHT and not a 85 GLHT. Another possibility is you have a 86 GLHT with a 85 engine. The two distributors are not compatible electrically. In another post #24, you showed a picture of a rear cam seal and rear cam seal cover. 85 engines came factory with rear cam seals, while 86's came with the rear cam PLUG and without the cover. Sure it isn't a 85 GLHT? 85 will have #4323287 casting head, and NO center mounted brake light, while 86 uses the 4105782 swirl head and does have the center mounted brake light on the rear hatch. Fender tag and VIN # will show F for 10th digit of VIN for 1985, while 1986 will be a G. Emission decal on core support should also list what year the vehicle is.
 

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Discussion Starter #74
it is indeed a 1985 glht. ?

So I did the jumper wire to activate the ASD then cranked the car with a test light on the (+) for the coil. When I turned the key to IOEO the test light came on but did not flash while cranking.
 

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With the ASD manually actuated you do not have to crank the engine to check for power at the + coil terminal.
Manually actuating tells you that the ASD circuit and wiring is Ok.
Once you have verified that as OK remove the jumper from the diagnostic connector and then crank the engine and see if there is power at the + coil.
If there is not then that indicates the controller is not seeing a crank signal from the HEP.
Since this is an 85 there is another way to test this.
Disconnect the - battery terminal which will clear the codes.
Reconnect the battery cable.
Before cranking the engine check for codes.
There should be a code 11 stored, the code 11 is "engine not cranked since battery disconnect.
Now crank the engine for 5-7 seconds and recheck the codes.
If the code 11 is still there you know the controller is not seeing a crank/RPM signal from the HEP.
 

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I know 85/86, do not remember if it included 87, IIRC it was all three years.
The code 11 was changed to loss of crank signal in 88 and only showed up when the crank/RPM signal was lost, you would only receive a Code 12 with battery disconnect, code 12 means The Battery was recently disconnected.
 

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Ugh! Why did they change that? Wouldn't it be the only way to quickly identify a failed HEP?
 

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Ugh! Why did they change that? Wouldn't it be the only way to quickly identify a failed HEP?
You have to remember that nothing that is done on a vehicle that is not related to comfort/convenience or safety is done for you.
When technological advances take place on a vehicle service info is written for dealer techs only, dealer techs that have access to all of equipment needed to work on said vehicle.

For a dealer tech, checking the crank signal was as easy as connecting the DRBII, look at engine rpm and crank the engine, no rpm = no crank signal.

If you read the flow charts in the service manual they all start with...Connect The DRBII...

In 1991 Chrysler did away with fault code numbers (although you can still get the codes by number) and used description only and the only way to get the actual description was with a scanner, why???, they do not want the public working on or touching the car, and now 30 years later...
 

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I don't even want to talk about how much I hate that "You own it, but not really." mentality. DRB prices suck, if you can even find one, then the people who own them talk about how iffy the cable connections are (30 years old, again). I want to get one to help all the local STL guys, but even when I have the money and bid on one, I never seem to be able to win the auction. I'm going to ask one of my guys with a bone stock Shelby Z to check if he gets a code 11 after battery disconnect. We'll find out. :)
 
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