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Discussion Starter #1
Whats the best motor-mount recipe for a an 89 Lebaron 5spd? (2.5 turbo)

I want to stop the excessive movement but I don't want any added vibration. So perhaps a compromise.

Looking at GLHNSLHT2... i know somewhere he wrote the perfect recipe but I can't find it.

Thanks in advance!
 

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probably here: Replacement bobble strut / shock for 1986 Laser?

But I'll sum it up here:

for 5spd cars.
PB front and drivers side mount.

Mopar Performance (MP) passenger side mount. These are stiffer than stock but also have bosses on the one side to stop any sagging. A stocker has bosses on the top but both sides but because there's none on the bottom they still sag. So you can tell which mount is stock and MP by looking for these bosses.

The bobble strut can be PB or custom. I made my own way back in 2001 that is nothing more than a 1" galvanized pipe with a hole drilled through it sideways were it attaches to the kframe. Then a pipe cap with a hole drilled through the center and a shouldered bolt ran up through it and through the bracket on the trans. I used the big washers from the stock strut and an energy suspension "strut rod" bushing on either side. The bushings must ride on the shoulder of the 3/8" bolt. If they ride on the threads you'll destroy the bushings and they'll be gone. Anyway so it's semi solid setup that transmitted zero vibes to the car. The PB version (and I talked Johnny into making these for the community at a PNWSDAC gathering) has bushings at both ends. Also don't have any preload on this setup and set the bushings just snug on either way you do this. My version is $10. PB's is more expensive but easier to just buy and go. DO NOT use my version on a 525 trans! You'll snap the corner of the trans clean off in one easy launch of the car. 520 or later trans only! I have no experience of the PB mount on a 525 so your results may vary but be aware.


Auto cars.

PB mounts on all 3 corners as they don't have a bobble strut.

Now Simon (newbies won't know him) did fab up a bobble strut bracket for the auto trans. If you can do that and feel like it run the mounts like a 5spd setup and use a stock Lbody dogbone for the "strut" as it's going to give you a bit more give and allow more room.

Here's my latest "solid bobble strut"

271097



271098

 

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Discussion Starter #3
Awesome, thanks so much!
I think I am going to get the PB bobble, just to save some time and energy on my part.
Any source for the Mopar Performance (MP) passenger side mount? Part number, or anything?
Many thanks.
 

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I am using the poly bushing bobble strut on my '89 Lancer Shelby, and a pb motor mount on the passenger side.
Here is a link: bobble strut engine mount It is a little different than the one used by the legendary driver, which also looks like a good design
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hmm. Weird about the pic.
On a related not, mine also has a bobble strut up top. Should I just leave that in?
Also, when you say not to preload the solid rear bobble, what do you mean exactly?
 

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that picture looks like a front motor mount for a 1st gen Neon
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well I got the front PB mount in, as well as the driver's side.

Proved a little difficult to get the bolt holes line up with the new bushings, but they're in.

I'll put the solid rear bobble in as soon as I get my steering rack ready to drop in. Still waiting on new steering rack bushings to come in the mail.

It's funny, I don't know if this is how all TD cars are , but there was a little bobble alongside the driver's side mount as well. So that's a total of three bobbles: the rear, the driver's side, and the passenger's side.
 

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Convertible! All the pre-90 verts have the extra bobble struts. I don't know why. Maybe because they cut the roof they needed some extra dampening? The later 90 vert mounts got rid of that and if you have a 90+ car are awesome mounts to use as they transmit zero vibes but also allow for zero engine rotation.
 

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On preload. What you don't want is the bobble strut pushing or pulling on the transmission. you just want it to hold it in place where it rests. So you mount it to the kframe and then just snug the bushings ever so slightly around the bracket. This keeps the motor from moving when you accelerate or decelerate but doesn't transmit vibration to the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Gotcha, sounds good on the preload. Thanks for the explanation.

Was wondering, when doing all this, is there a chance that I am somehow misaligning the motor as I bolt things up? I think I remember seeing something in the FSM about aligning your motor mounts.. something about CV length?

Also, on the bobbles: interesting. I left them on there, not sure if they’re still doing anything but there they are. Hopefully the stiffer mounts won’t twist my convertible body up, haha.

Still coming up blank on the passenger side mount. Wondering if there is an acceptable aftermarket company making these mounts?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So I did some more research on the passenger side mount, looks like that part number is actually correct.
I think they must have the wrong photo.
I ended up ordering the passenger side MP mount from a smaller speed shop that had a better price. Hope it gets here soon!
 

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Gotcha, sounds good on the preload. Thanks for the explanation.

Was wondering, when doing all this, is there a chance that I am somehow misaligning the motor as I bolt things up? I think I remember seeing something in the FSM about aligning your motor mounts.. something about CV length?

Also, on the bobbles: interesting. I left them on there, not sure if they’re still doing anything but there they are. Hopefully the stiffer mounts won’t twist my convertible body up, haha.

Still coming up blank on the passenger side mount. Wondering if there is an acceptable aftermarket company making these mounts?
Yes, you want to be able to push the axles in equally from the hubs which shows you how well the motor is centered. If it was already centered and you're doing 1 mount at a time you're probably ok. If it hasn't it's a good thing to check. Car in the air with the jack stands under the ends of the a-arms so the weight is on the suspension. Have to undo the axle nuts which I just put a big screwdriver in the brakes and a huge breaker bar. Torque is 135ft-lbs on them IIRC. Once centered tighten everything back up.

So I did some more research on the passenger side mount, looks like that part number is actually correct.
I think they must have the wrong photo.
I ended up ordering the passenger side MP mount from a smaller speed shop that had a better price. Hope it gets here soon!
Nice! keep us informed. Show some pics. Should have 2 bosses on the same side of the mount where the stocker has 1 boss on each side at the top. You'll see.
 
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