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This is a work in progress. I will be adding to it as it progresses.

This is my 2.5l MPI build thread.

I bought a 1993 Dodge Spirit in 1999, when I was stationed in Texas. I have since left the Air Force, and returned to Michigan. It had 80,000 miles on it when I bought it. It now has 235,000. My little car gets great gas mileage. The body is in great shape, minus needing a little paint.

I have always worked on my own cars. The money I save by doing my own work allows me to invest in tools to do that work, as well as repair friends and families vehicles.

I am always looking for ways to improve fuel economy. I first pondered doing a turbo conversion, but decided against that route because I do not race my car, and drive sensibly. I researched doing a Flex-Fuel (FFV) conversion, but I do not intend on running E-85 in this car, due to the lower energy density and economic loss with the fuel cost. I found out about the 2.5l MPI non-turbo, non-FFV engine that Chrysler sold in Europe, Mexico, and South America. Once I found a copy of the Mexican MPI calibration, this seemed the way to go.

The prep work mostly involved amassing the parts for this conversion. The turbo Chryslers are getting rarer at the local "Automotive Recycle Centers", but they can still be found.

Here is a list of the "new" parts from my various yard crawls:

Intake manifold - I am using an 1989 T-II, slant manifold. (lightly ported)
Throttle body
Fuel Rail and regulator - I found both these, in stainless steel, in a FFV Spirit.
Air filter box and hoses - From FFV Spirit. (I will probably end up fabricating a new one)
Wiring for injectors, cam shaft position sensor, knock sensor, etc
Fuel injectors - From 1989 2.5l T-II.
Distributer - From 1988 turbo.
Crank/Cam position HEP assembly - from 1989 T-II.
SBEC-II - Socketed from a 1994 3.3 V-6: It has all of the injector drivers, as well as the coil drivers. If I figure out how the coil pack is driven in the calibration code, I will go the coil pack route.

I started by running all of the extra wiring in the engine compartment. Using wiring diagrams, it was easy, yet tedious, to add the additional wiring to the stock wire harness. (I swapped the original 1993 engine harness, in 2005, with a 1994 because the 1994 had the provisions for the ABS system and daytime running lights.) Since I am unable to get a copy of any 1992+ Mexican MPI engine wiring diagram, I am basing all my wiring off of the 1993 FFV diagram and the 1994 Mexican MPI vacuum diagram. At first I got the appropriate coded wires from a 3,0 V-6 ire harness, but later found another FFV Spirit at one of the local yards. I removed the wires for the injectors, knock sensor, cam position sensor. I removed the wires, connector to connector. This eliminates the need for a lot of splicing. Some splicing is still required for the power and ground for the cam position sensor. According to the Mexican vacuum diagram, there is not a Purge solenoid, however there is a BARO READ solenoid. I used the existing purge solenoid and wiring. I moved the purge solenoid wire from cavity #52 on the SBEC-II's 60 PIN connector, to cavity #55.

With the wiring installed, I started doing light porting to the intake and exhaust manifolds. I got a new, re-manufactured cylinder head for some light porting. As I was doing this, I changed my main and rod bearings, as well as my piston rings.


***BURN CAL FILE***

***BOLT-ON***

***VACUUM HOSES***
 

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This is what I want to do with my 85 Plymouth Caravelle. Get rid of the TBI for a better induction system but don't need the turbo. I have most parts for the log turbo setup allready from a scrapped 84 T1 just not sure if the turbo is good.
 

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The log intake is certainly NOT a better induction system than the tbi setup.. It just has a turbo to prop it up.

I would not say a stock 1pc manifold is 'better' than either tbi setup (your 85 has a different setup than mangelhaft's) in practice unless you can properly tune for it. Running the stock n/a MPI cal is a good start.

However, i did very simple mods to two tbi motors and calculated out (based on weight and trap speed) to be making more power than a stock MPI is rated at. So, do not expect miracles from bolting on and plugging in a 1pc intake setup. For someone who has a currently-running but un-tuned tbi, i would invest in the ability to tune before throwing parts at it. My most modded TBI was so far out of tune on the stock computer that taking out the thermostat resulted in a huge power gain (from fuel enrichment). A properly tuned tbi will make more power than a 1pc on a stock cal (even if it is the correct one)... even my UNproperly tuned one did. Food for thought.
 

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Vigo ---> Good points. I am hoping to find a two-piece intake manifold at one of the yards. From what I have come across during my research, the two-piece is much better than the log intake, and an improvement over the one-piece, slant intake. Power is not a concern: Increasing MPGs is. If all else fails, I could always swap the intake, throttle body and calibration chip back, if I have too many issues.
 

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The 2pc is vastly superior to the 1pc in all respects except price.

A member on this forum (Unaclocker) built a MPI rampage a long time ago and got 42mpg out of it. Of course, he had complete tuning ability (via Megasquirt) and probably a manual trans (efficiency, overdrive) along with a bit less weight, although i dont think the weight is much of an issue.
 

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I am still on the lookout for a 2-piece intake, from a local yard. I had seen them in the past, but did not know what I was looking at. If I find one, my initial post will be amended as such, as well as I will be adding to it as this project progresses.
 

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Did you ever finish it?If so any pics? I'm currently doing a 2.2 the same way. Would live all the help you can give.
What help do you need with your conversion? I run 2.2 and 2.5 N/A circle track cars that I've converted to multiport. Here's what I run.

-1 Piece T2 Intake with factory Fuel Rail, Injectors, & Injector Harness as well as the knock sensor and air charge temp sensor

-52mm Throttle Body (You'll want to stick with 46mm factory if you care about mileage) the 52mm come on v6 caravans and stuff like that. Mines off a 98

-Turbo computer (I have one car on an 87 Logic Module Set-up and another on an 89 SMEC) For best results you'll want to socket it and tune as you drive. The SMEC is much easier to tune than the LM because I can't get the program MPScan to data log anything with the LM set-up and the LM set-up has to have extra wires run to get it to work with the AIS motor unless you get one from a shelby car.

-Turbo Wiring Harness respective to the computer that I am running.

-Distributor can be off of any 2.2 or 2.5 turbo car they're all the same. (Possibly not the 16 valve engines but i doubt youll find one of those anyways)

-Cold Air ebay intake from an non-turbo 95-99 eclipse fits in just perfectly if you have a manual transmission. You have to get a true COLD air intake tho. If you get a short ram i'm not sure how well that will fit.

Your first step is going to be getting a computer and wiring harness. You have more work than I did because youll have to integrate your current harness with the turbo harness on my cars all I have to do is strip the wiring out for everything except what is needed to run the motor and the gauges. Use the pinouts on Minimopar.net to figure out what wires run what.

Once you strip down your turbo harness to just what you need then you'll be able to start integrating them together. This will take a weekend at least if your good with wiring. Maybe a couple if your not. The more creature comforts you have an want to keep (Ex. Cruise or AC) the longer it will take to integrate.

Once you have the harnesses integrate your pretty much done. All you have to do then is remove your old intake and install the new intake with the fuel rail. Body to engine ground strap goes on the right fuel rail bolt. The fuel lines will have to be hose clamped on. I double clamp the feed line on mine and haven't had an issue

The turbo distributor just pops right in. Do pay attention to the position of the distributor and put it back the same way. I would suggest timing it after you get it running.

The harness just basically is plug and play after you have everything installed. If done correctly you should be able to fire up the car and drive it at that point. I may have forgotten a step in there but I think i covered it all

Tried to post some pics but it wouldn't upload them
 

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Here is what I have so far. I have a t2 1 piece, stock fuel rail, turbo distributor, larger than stock tb not sure what size it came in a box of parts, injector harness, and a Mexican MPFI sbec. I have aluminum turbo piping for CAI currently going to where charcoal canister was. Left overs from supercharging and blowing it up. I need the a turbo distributor wiring harness still but I hope that's it. Which vacuum system are you running and where do you set your timing and fuel pressure? I was playing with cam timings before car was put away for winter. I ended happy with the cam 6° advanced and 15° of timing at 41-42 psi fuel pressure. I also run a ported head with beehive 3.3's and pt lifters. I attached pic of current setup.
 

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I run the stock requlator that will regulate the pressure between 50 to 58ish PSI depending on engine vacuum I have one vacuum line run from the throttle body to the fuel PSI regulator and another line from the manifold to the MAP and that's it. I don't even run anything to the brake booster on my set-up. For you all you should have to add is the manifold to brake booster line and the connector on the brake booster should have additional nipples on it to connect HVAC and cruise vacuum lines

For timing advance I have mine set to 12* advanced. Set it with the engine up to operating temp and the coolant temp sensor unplugged. (The rad fan will come on when you unplug the sensor so keep your hands clear)

I have my blocks decked and heads milled so my timing is off. I set it to the retarded side which is 4-7 degrees normally. For street application you may be better off leaving it in the middle. Retarded you loose low end and gain top end. Advanced you gain top end and loose low end so it all goes back to application.

Where in the hell did you find a Mexican MPFI SMEC if I may ask? I looked and looked before I did my first conversion and could not find one to save my life.
 

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I got the MPFI sbec from a Facebook member of one of the group's I'm in. I was asking him for a turbo sbec for this project and he said "why I have the Mexican sbec?". He said he's had it for years planning on doing the conversion but never got to it. He was so happy someone was going use it he let me have it for $10. I can't seem to find the numbers anywhere in any database. #4516670. The number on the chip is 391. Any ideas where to look?
 

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Looks like a Mopar part number. I would guess it's right but just so old that it doesn't show up. The fact that it came on non-american cars probably doesn't help either.

The Mexican cars did come with an injector which part number that isn't the same as any turbo cars where. PN:4554130

It was hypothesized that they flow less than the smallest turbo injectors which are 27pph. You'll have 34pph probably so if you find the car runs really rich especially under wide open throttle you might have to find some 27pph injectors and drop the fuel pressure down to get it to run the proper Air Fuel Ratio.

I found most of my info for this from Gary's site. The Dodge Garage and most of my wiring info came from MiniMopar Resources
 

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I don't know why, but I am still desperately looking for an FFV. Somebody has to save ONE of them. I can't find a single person that has a single one, though! They've mostly been junked and then scrapped. Since noone has any interest in the FFV other than to strip them of injectors, noone has messed around with trying to rig in an ethanol sensor in place of the methanol sensor and tune the SBEC for gas/E85.
 

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You'd be hard press to find one. I think they produced just around 12,000 total and most where fleet vehicles. I know they where a pain in the ass to find certain parts for and most have probably been scrapped out and pillaged for the injectors before being crushed. I'm sure theyre are still a couple out there but finding them is another story. Probably owned by older people who rarely drive them and when they pass away their kids will send the car straight to the scrap yard. If i ever see one I'll certainly let you know. I looked real hard a few years back before I did my MPFI swap and came up empty
 

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Thank you! My friend Karl found one in a Chicago salvage yard two years ago. They crushed it complete(no one had pulled a single part) before he got down there to COMPLETELY strip the car for me. I wanted him to pull every FFV item so I could document it all. Maybe build a clone. R.I.P. FFV.:crying:
 
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