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Just picked up an 88 Town and Country wagon in avg rough shape. It has multiple electrical problems. I was told it was just a door sensor since the pass door is dented pretty bad and sags. It kills the battery overnight if it's left plugged in and it came with 2 brand new batteries and a piece of paper with a electrical specialists number on it so I'm 100% sure it's not the door sensor. The red door warning was on but it was a back door not the damaged one and I fixed it with a piece of plastic (sensor was shorter than it should be) now there is no dome light or door warning light.

Problem 1 is the power draw I pulled fuses and it was still drawing power. It seems to come from this wire

Problem 2 is pretty low voltage. I pulled the stock Bosch alternator and the wire to the black module on the back had a broken contact inside the alternator (Not connected but it still passed?) and the bearing was noisy But we ran the autozone test it PASSED 14.5v and ripple was in spec and we ran the test 4 times....

Problem 3 is speedo acting weird but it smoothed out after a ride around town....

I put in a new alternator but the short seems to still be there (bright spark from neg terminal when hooking up). I never ran it since I was fixing the leaking trans hoses which turned to a 3 hour nightmare when I pulled the battery tray I saw a heater hose getting dug hard by a bolt protruding from the radiator and the heater valve snapped and all the hoses were rock hard trash so I ripped out all 4 hoses and the broken valve out. Tomorrow I'm getting the new valve and replacing all the hoses. I still don't know what is up with these electrical problems......
 

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The large wire with the "quick connect" is the main power feed for the Fusible Links, are all Fusible Links intact?

When checking for an IOD you should be using a DVOM, disconnect both battery cables, place the DVOM between the + battery post and + battery cable set on a 10 AMP scale.
Reconnect the - Battery cable.
Be all interior lamps are off (dimmer is also off) and wait one minute for all controllers to go to sleep.
Anything over 30 milliamps (.030) is an excess draw, seeing your videos I would say you are well above that.
If removing all fuses does not lower the amperage then you need to start disconnecting devices that may be shorted or staying alive such as the alternator and engine controller.

As far as the "not charging/low battery voltage" condition...
Locate the source of your IOD first.

I am going to send you wiring through PM.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ok so it has been reassembled and driven. New alt,cap,rotor,wires,plugs,heater valve,heater hoses,trans hoses. And the new $100 Alt got me an extra .10 Volts....
I'm going to test all the fusible links in a couple hours but still stumped on the low voltage....
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ok So I got the draw to go from .430 amps down to .005 amps by removing these 2 fuses. But for some reason the radio doesn't work and when u turn it on it does this

Removing fuse 15 only gets it from .430 down to .021 Is that acceptable?
with fuse 7 and 15 both removed it draws .005 A but I did pop/melt my multimeter by hooking it to the battery terminals in AMP mode but it seems to still work.
Here's a vid of it getting tested. I noticed hooking up the terminal the car dings like the key is in for a second so something somewhere is shorting I just have no idea.....


273132
273133
 

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.030 (30 milliamps) is the max for an IOD (Internal Off Draw) so at .021 you are good.
Fuse 15 is all of the interior lighting so that is obviously where the draw is.
It is probably not a short or the fuse would have blown so something is staying powered on.
One thing to keep in mind...
Be sure ALL fuses are good (power in and power out).
Electricity is extremely lazy and always looks for the easiest path to ground (the path of least resistance), if a fuse blows for any circuit the current will look for an alternate path to ground, if it finds one other circuits maybe powered on when they should be off.

I will send you the Low Battery Voltage Diagnostics through PM, it may help you locating your other electrical issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
.030 (30 milliamps) is the max for an IOD (Internal Off Draw) so at .021 you are good.
Fuse 15 is all of the interior lighting so that is obviously where the draw is.
It is probably not a short or the fuse would have blown so something is staying powered on.
One thing to keep in mind...
Be sure ALL fuses are good (power in and power out).
Electricity is extremely lazy and always looks for the easiest path to ground (the path of least resistance), if a fuse blows for any circuit the current will look for an alternate path to ground, if it finds one other circuits maybe powered on when they should be off.

I will send you the Low Battery Voltage Diagnostics through PM, it may help you locating your other electrical issues.
Thanks for the intel. One of the yellow fuses was blown and I don't know what those metal fuse things even are so i'll have to research it more.The book just says use regular fuses. Also I'm still only getting 13.17v when it's charging so maybe some sensor or ground is off.....
 

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Those "Metal Fuse Things" are Circuit Breakers, rather than a fuse that blows the circuit breaker will momentarily open the circuit when amperage exceeds the limit and will reset after it cools.
They are usually used on power seats, power windows, etc.
The amperage rating is stamped on the outer cover of the circuit breaker.
Yes it is normal for them to be hot to the touch.

13.17 volts is charging, although somewhat low.
Normal charging voltage on these cars is in the 13.60 - 13.80 range.
If you were not charging at all you would be reading battery voltage.

1)Be sure the battery is good, 100% charged and will hold a load, a faulty battery may/will cause charging/alternator issues.
2)Verify the alternator is properly grounded.
Be sure all engine grounds are present and secured on a clean/rust free surface.
The main engine controller ground is located at the fuel rail.
There is also a ground on the R/S (passenger) engine mount to body.
ELECTRICAL- Main Controller Ground 84-89.jpg Engine Compartment Front-2011.jpg

3)Be sure you have battery voltage at the field terminals and battery feed at the alternator.
Follow the diagnostics I sent.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Those "Metal Fuse Things" are Circuit Breakers, rather than a fuse that blows the circuit breaker will momentarily open the circuit when amperage exceeds the limit and will reset after it cools.
They are usually used on power seats, power windows, etc.
The amperage rating is stamped on the outer cover of the circuit breaker.
Yes it is normal for them to be hot to the touch.

13.17 volts is charging, although somewhat low.
Normal charging voltage on these cars is in the 13.60 - 13.80 range.
If you were not charging at all you would be reading battery voltage.

1)Be sure the battery is good, 100% charged and will hold a load, a faulty battery may/will cause charging/alternator issues.
2)Verify the alternator is properly grounded.
Be sure all engine grounds are present and secured on a clean/rust free surface.
The main engine controller ground is located at the fuel rail.
There is also a ground on the R/S (passenger) engine mount to body.
View attachment 273146 View attachment 273147

3)Be sure you have battery voltage at the field terminals and battery feed at the alternator.
Follow the diagnostics I sent.
1 the battery was fully charged at AutoZone and it was only a month old the other one was a couple months older and had a lot less cranking amps both of them are not even a year old though previous owner was just throwing batteries in it.
2 and 3 I'll do now Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #9
1 the battery was fully charged at AutoZone and it was only a month old the other one was a couple months older and had a lot less cranking amps both of them are not even a year old though previous owner was just throwing batteries in it.
2 and 3 I'll do now Thanks
I checked all the grounds are good but now it's even worse. I had to take it on a 3 hour round trip to pickup a huge tv and when I started it today (It rained last night) the digital dash was dead(fuse was getting no power) but the radio came back even if I put those 2 fuses back in. I drove hour and a half no gauges then 30 minutes into the return trip the "GATE" light was dimly lit then it got real bright radio made a high pitched noise died and the digital dash reactivated. Turning on the radio makes the "GATE" light come on and the dash goes to Kilometers and even with the interior light fuse out if I open a door or turn on the interior light it makes the "GATE" light come on and kills the dash. Also with the dash working the radio won't work just shows the time.....I was thinking the liftback had a problem but when u open it the "GATE" light comes on and off like it should. And now it's barely charging anymore (12.8v like the old alternator)when I raise the windows it drops to the red on the gauge. Total electrical mess and no clue where to look at this point......
 

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Follow the charging diagnostics and see where it leads, it may be related to your other issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Follow the charging diagnostics and see where it leads, it may be related to your other issues.
Checked charging system (Don't have a DRB-11) And 13.5v at the terminal on the Alt.Fields good Grounds good but only 13.2 at battery.

Got cluster working same way I did on my neighbors 2013 Bmw 328xi. I took it apart and put it back in and boom it works again....

As far as the power draw........
Car is ripped apart NO RADIO,CLUSTER,GLOVEBOX LIGHTSWITCH,Headlight switch,all interior bulbs,No Dash,No Gate trim,Door sill trim. And Nothing no matter what it draws .4-5 Amps with the #15 Accessory fuse in.
The diagram you sent shows 3 things on the #15 Fuse Glovebox light,radio,Door lights. I removed all of that and it still has a power draw. there has to be some stupid module somewhere on that circuit. It has the same options and dash\cluster as a Chrysler New Yorker.It seems to have self leveling suspension the shocks look blown but have air hose connections and sometimes what sounds like a pump comes on but the power draw makes no noise it's like a timer (Yes I removed the timer relay for key light)

this is what it does and I've never seen a short lag.....
 

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Losing .3 volts between the Alternator and Battery may be a connection issue, loose, rust, corrosion, etc.

Did you verify all fuses were good?
What happens if you remove all fuses/circuit breakers from the fuse block?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Losing .3 volts between the Alternator and Battery may be a connection issue, loose, rust, corrosion, etc.

Did you verify all fuses were good?
What happens if you remove all fuses/circuit breakers from the fuse block?
I found if I just remove fuse 15 which according to the diagram you sent Powers the glove box light radio and interior lights I removed all of that stuff and it still has a short when I put that fuse in. And it might not even be a short since I go to test it and it pulls almost nothing and then after a couple seconds it pulls half an amp. I think this has more Electronics than a regular K car it's more like a Chrysler New Yorker. Power everything.....
 

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So, you are saying that with Fuse 15 removed your IOD is below .030 milliamps?
 

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That would be due to stray voltage as I explained earlier.
Disconnect the headlamp switch and see if the IOD drops.
If no...
Do/Did everything on the fuse 15 circuit work as it should?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
That would be due to stray voltage as I explained earlier.
Disconnect the headlamp switch and see if the IOD drops.
If no...
Do/Did everything on the fuse 15 circuit work as it should?
I took everything including the headlight switch out. Fuse 15 according to the diagram you sent powers the radio (removed),Glovebox light(removed),and interior lights(All removed) And yes all 3 of those work perfectly. There has to be something else on that fuse not in the diagram. When I test it first few seconds only .020A then it jumps to .400 A seems like there's another module or something activating with that fuse in....
 

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Did you disconnect the Time Delay Relay?

My wiring is from Mitchell On Demand, it is not detailed and I am working with standard K-Car wiring, so if there is something else on the circuit...
I do not have Town and Country specific wiring.
If you would like more detailed info that is specific to your vehicle may I suggest...
1)Alldata DIY
Their wiring is broken down into systems/circuits and is much more detailed since it comes from the FSM.
2)FSM
OR
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Did you disconnect the Time Delay Relay?

My wiring is from Mitchell On Demand, it is not detailed and I am working with standard K-Car wiring, so if there is something else on the circuit...
I do not have Town and Country specific wiring.
If you would like more detailed info that is specific to your vehicle may I suggest...
1)Alldata DIY
Their wiring is broken down into systems/circuits and is much more detailed since it comes from the FSM.
2)FSM
OR
Yes that relay is out along with the radio and everything else on that circuit and it still ramps up to 4.A after a few seconds with that fuse in. The car is optioned like a Chrysler New Yorker so I'm assuming that might be the harness they used on this car and the digital cluster is the same as a 1988 turbo lebaron 4 door old body and the 1987 Chrysler New Yorker....
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Did you disconnect the Time Delay Relay?

My wiring is from Mitchell On Demand, it is not detailed and I am working with standard K-Car wiring, so if there is something else on the circuit...
I do not have Town and Country specific wiring.
If you would like more detailed info that is specific to your vehicle may I suggest...
1)Alldata DIY
Their wiring is broken down into systems/circuits and is much more detailed since it comes from the FSM.
2)FSM
OR
Yes that relay is out along with the radio and everything else on that circuit and it still ramps up to 4.A after a few seconds with that fuse in. The car is optioned like a Chrysler New Yorker so I'm assuming that might be the harness they used on this car and the digital cluster is the same as a 1988 turbo lebaron 4 door old body and the 1987 Chrysler New Yorker....
 
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