Turbo Dodge Forums banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
452 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well, I haven't posted here in a long time. I cannot unlock my old thread to continue it as it's been many years since I started my build. Took a break for a long while because life, but over the past year have gotten back into it. Had to take stock of where I was, and decided to redo many things, and also finally started pushing hard to get a lot of stuff done. For reference, here's a link to Part 1 of my build:
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f11/f69/371204-bonds-build-thread-finally.html

Tis been a while, but progress has been happening. Life came up, and ended up not touching the car between July and February, so he's an update:

The pictures were taken with my 6yr old smart phone, so a few of them are not the greatest.

There were a few things I didn't get photographed, such as yanking the transmission off and cleaning the diff housing, resealing it and the extension housing and installing the Fidanza aluminum flywheel and my TU 6 puck clutch. Also picked up a bunch more miscellaneous parts - 10AN fittings and lines for all the oil returns.

Had the TIG welding finished up on the headers and downpipes. Heat relieved the heck out of everything, but it all bolts together quite nicely.




After that, took the opportunity to remake the radiator crossover tube (the pipe that sits between the V of the block and goes from the water pump to the bellhousing. Originally, I was only going to remake the block section in aluminum (you can see the end of my original redesign in the picture above). The mad scientist and I decided - with how close exhaust pieces were in this area - we should try and put the hose connection further out. So we came up with this idea:



It routes through the block like usual, but bends down and runs between a space in the transmission casing. It bolts up using one of the bellhousing bolts and a bolt from my hydraulic clutch slave cylinder mount.

After this was fabricated and fit, we put the engine into the car. I had previously built the body side of the exhaust system, just had to finish up the downpipe flange to mate up with the body 3" system. I had just enough room to fit a 2.5" elbow between the firewall and the rear header, which then transitions to 3" into a 3 bolt flange mating up to the body section.




Once I had the engine in, and the turbo system all bolted up, also put my homemade oil filter relocation block on the engine:



Over the past week, I've been piecing together the cold side of the system. Mounted the rad, intercooler, and started routing piping. Cutting, fitting and welding the aluminum together. Also had a buddy bead roll the pipe ends for me. Mocked up the filters to check for clearance and spacing and to measure how much 3" aluminum I need for the upper filter.






And today, spent some time getting my oil filter relocation bracket installed. Mocked and checked with the sandwich plate installed. Cut and ran the -10AN lines to the block to verify header and radiator clearance. Came together quite well.




AND finally.. I cleared some stuff out of the way, took a few steps back and grabbed this pic. Ignore the missing silicone couplers. I have them, just forgot to put them back on for the pic.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,784 Posts
I'm going to read your other thread for sure, but what are you doing about head sealing? 6G72's like to push coolant at higher boost levels.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
452 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I've got quite a ways before I'm worrying about high enough boost levels to push coolant. The heads and block were resurfaced, and a new MLS headgasket for reassembly. I did a 100psi leakdown test right after building and had averaged about 4% across all 6 cylinders - 1 cylinder was closer to about 8% and the lowest was 2. The wastegates are spring matched for ~5 psi currently, with the next spring step up to 8psi. Will use my boost controller to up that, but I'm not looking for skyhigh levels of boost. Just want something that sounds great, goes like hell, and is unique.

When the time comes, I'm already planning the next set of heads to be oversized valves, more extreme porting (my current heads are very mildly ported) and cams. I'll most likely do the copper wire to the next set.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,784 Posts
So did you make any improvements regarding the Engine side , Pistons or crank ?
As long as the ring gaps have been opened up a bit and you have good control over the tune the stock pistons are OK. They will handle some abuse. The stock crank is plenty strong for whatever we will ever throw at it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
377 Posts
i was thinking that the Mitsu 3.0 Twin Turbo Crank would be a forged unit but didn't know if they were interchangeable .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
452 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
i was thinking that the Mitsu 3.0 Twin Turbo Crank would be a forged unit but didn't know if they were interchangeable .
They may be, and may be stronger. My understanding is the DOHC and TT engines have 4 bolt mains, so those engines should handle a bit more abuse from the factory.

The issue is supply and pricing. DOHC/TT 6Gs are not very common in my area, so trying to find bottom end parts for them at a decent price isn't easy. On the other hand, I can get a running 07/08 6G75 (3.8L) entire engine from a wrecker for approx $1000, and I think I'd more likely go that route as they have factory forged crank, 24V and more displacement.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
377 Posts
understood , incidentally i have a 3.0 TT that i'm getting rid of . It was my spare Engine for out Stealth . is that something you might be interested in ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
452 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
understood , incidentally i have a 3.0 TT that i'm getting rid of . It was my spare Engine for out Stealth . is that something you might be interested in ?
I appreciate the offer, and 18 months ago I would've went for it. I honestly think the next engine will be a 3.8L.


WOW! amazing work !!
Thank you! I'll be very happy when I can finally drive the thing. I'm working through the endlessness that is plumbing and vac lines right now. I'll hopefully have some pics later this weekend to show more progress.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,055 Posts
I'm going to read your other thread for sure, but what are you doing about head sealing? 6G72's like to push coolant at higher boost levels.
Ran 12psi and never had heads push coolant... been boosted for a decade now. where do you get your facts?

Also tt cranks are a direct swap over... but why would you unless you had one? Stock 6g cranks handle abuse rather well, speaking from experience, not hearsay.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,784 Posts
Ran 12psi and never had heads push coolant... been boosted for a decade now. where do you get your facts?

Also tt cranks are a direct swap over... but why would you unless you had one? Stock 6g cranks handle abuse rather well, speaking from experience, not hearsay.
Well, 12psi isn't "higher" boost! LOL I'm talking 20+. I get my facts from real life...seen it in person with Ondonti (arguably the "expert" on boosting thee engines).

Agree on the crank. No reason to mess with that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
452 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Well, 12psi isn't "higher" boost! LOL I'm talking 20+. I get my facts from real life...seen it in person with Ondonti (arguably the "expert" on boosting thee engines).

Agree on the crank. No reason to mess with that.
I respect what Ondonti has done, and I would never discount his expertise/experience with these engines. That being said - he was also known for running junkyard engines with unknown history, compression, leakdown, etc, reusing head gaskets, and relying solely on rising rate regulators and factory ECU for fueling/timing control. Not saying he doesn't know what he's doing, but pushing coolant on that type of setup doesn't mean it's common or not, and could be more a symptom of the setup.

I cannot remember off the top of my head exactly what setup he was running when he pushed coolant, but my memory tells me it wasn't an optimal setup.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,784 Posts
You are correct that his typical setup is not optimal. I've been bugging him for a long time to dump the RRR and all, but he likes mucking with it! LOL In all seriousness, he views it as a challenge.

Anyway, when I was with him a few years ago when he put his DD Spirit on the dyno and it pushed it was due to the engine being right on the edge of knock.

Besides, the coolant push thing is a known problem with the 3Si guys, too.

Take a look at the head when you get the chance. Underneath of the exhaust port is the problem area. There's coolant there, but no support for the head's deck. We've got a few theories we want to trial to help this. I'm really hoping to maybe have my own 3.0 up and running again next year. I want to try my hand at some of it, too!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,055 Posts
Word... well I've not personally seen it or seen Brent talk about it on TD. But I know hes on allot of forums so that could be it. If I remember to do it today, I'll post my ms3 msq. For my turbo tune to the forum! Since everyone else is being stingy with theres lol... that way everyone can plug and play for a change haha... tired of never having that shot, so I guess I'll give some more 😉
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,784 Posts
Part of the reason there's a lack of MS3 stuff for the 3.0 is that I don't actually know that anyone has one running *well* on it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
452 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
You are correct that his typical setup is not optimal. I've been bugging him for a long time to dump the RRR and all, but he likes mucking with it! LOL In all seriousness, he views it as a challenge.

Anyway, when I was with him a few years ago when he put his DD Spirit on the dyno and it pushed it was due to the engine being right on the edge of knock.

Besides, the coolant push thing is a known problem with the 3Si guys, too.

Take a look at the head when you get the chance. Underneath of the exhaust port is the problem area. There's coolant there, but no support for the head's deck. We've got a few theories we want to trial to help this. I'm really hoping to maybe have my own 3.0 up and running again next year. I want to try my hand at some of it, too!
I've done a bunch of reading about the coolant pushing, and what I've extracted is - too many people use shitty head gaskets! A large majority of the people mentioning it as an issue were using OEM headgaskets (non-MLS) or using aftermarket composite gaskets without copper spray / proper block prep. There are definitely a few concerns raised by the higher RPM or high compression + boost guys in the 3S community who know what they're doing, but I'm going to write this off at the moment as "cross this bridge when it becomes a problem". :)
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top