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Discussion Starter #81
you know i was thinking while reading this post all 7 pages mind you, that he mentioned earlier on that his plug gap eroded to .30 from .25 and the thought popped into my head that he was getting detonation and that was causing the plug wear.

Thanks for reading and commenting, I think the plugs i am running are a non resister race plug by ngk and i had about 5000 miles on them and 25 drag strip runs so i hope it was just normal wear im thinking it may have been bad gas as i did not have any sign on the plug just prior to this breakage #1 looked to be the richest plug and #4 was the one i was worried about as it showed lean and showed signs of detonation so I turned the fuel pressure up 4 psi from my normal street closed exhaust setting before I had this piston failure and i set the timing back to 10 degrees from 13 so im pretty confused as to why this happened when I was taking every precaution I thought.



Wow that piston chunk flying out like that is ridiculous. Good thing nothing was destroyed. The same thing happened to my yamaha warrior 350 quad and destroyed the head, cylinder, crank, and a few gears. Nothin like a chunk of metal causing you to pull the wrist pin out of the piston!
Lol thats funny you mention that I have a warrior too with a J&E 12-1 piston, dg exhaust, megacycle race cam, 38 mm mikuni carb and a few other tricks, I can give a stock 450 a good run and raptors I can run dead even with, the little 348 cc 2 valve just screams to 10,000 rpm.

Thanks for the comments and input I do appreciate it..!
 

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Discussion Starter #82
Well more good news for me the intermediate shaft and oil pump are stripping each other out to where the gear teeth are sharp at the tips, I dont get it because just before i swapped over to 16 valve I stripped an intermediate shaft in the old block and put a new melling pump with a good shaft in and swapped that over to the 16v motor since it was still in great shape after a few months of driving it now its trashed after 6000 miles

WTF
 

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Discussion Starter #83
Im wondering if the gear on the new oil pumps are just too hard for the i/m shaft, guess im going to find out the hard way, and I will loosen the tension on the t belt, but man ive only got two i/m shafts left on the shelf.
Years back running my turbovan I never had problems with the melling pumps or i/m shafts. brand new bearings careful installation maybe the bolts on the oil pump need to be elongated so that a certain backlash can be established between the gears ?
 

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I have actually heard of this happening before. I am thinking that the earlier i-shafts were actually made of a harder steel, so you might want to look at that as a possible fix.
 

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Discussion Starter #85
I do have an 87 block in the corner of the garage, maybe i will pull that one and try it.
 

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Discussion Starter #86
I got the only oil pump in town it seems and it was sitting on the shelf since 03, the funny thing is it has a really nice looking fully machined steel gear on it with extra beveling on the gears same part # as all the rest melling m118 and it has a bullet shaped discharge hole instead of the egg shaped and it has a thicker mounting flange

Found a spot on the oil pan where the oil pump was chattering/rubbing against it so im going to be doing some grinding on the new pump body to stop that, the pump must be vibrating or flexing against the pan, the pan is not bent at all.

The chuck end of a .154 drill bit cut into pieces works great for plugging up the crossdrill holes in the block + a little red locktite is always nice

I dont reccomend a newer style headgasket with the teardrop, the bore of the gasket is 3.470 so with a 3.4635 bore things are getting close, also it is only 3 layers and very thin at .018 compressed, it has no coolant passages on #1 cylinder except 1 in the back side. the felpro i have now is for a 97 dohc and is 4 layers at about .032 compressed and the bores are 3.530 with coolant holes all around cylinder 1.

With .009 deck clearance and that little gasket I only had probobly less than .027 piston to deck clearance cold.
 

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you should be able to swap a gear off of one that you know didnt do this in the past. idk, i remember seeing this kinda stuff on v-8's but not 2.2-2.5l's. maybe worth a shot?
 

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Discussion Starter #89
Thought i would post a couple of pics of my intake port work, it took quite a bit of metal removal to get rid of the necked down area near the injector bosses, port #1 was a bit larger than the rest and port #4 was getting the short end of the stick with some nasty casting flash.
 

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Discussion Starter #90
Got the car all fixed up, installed the 75# injectors with the same fwd hybrid cal and turned the fuel pressure as low as it woud go to 34 psi (running corked up with my 2.5" muffled exhaust for the street) im getting 10-1 afr at 14 psi and at 17 psi i get about 10.8-1 afr so its not far off once the exhaust is uncorked and boost is turned up :D

Definately going to be shooting for a much richer afr after toasting that piston, put about 500 miles on it so far and feels like it wants to destroy the car at 15 psi, I ported my compressor housing and added a jacobs high energy coil, knife edged and polished the throttle body but I really need a 58 mm throttle body at least.
 

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Discussion Starter #91
Scored a 58 mm throttle body today only $20 at the yard since it had a broken ais connector, picked up some poly sway bar bushings and ordered some nos mopar strut mounts along with a poly control arm kit, also got some electrical gremlins fixed up, found a ground to the smec that wasnt even hooked up just hidden inside some conduit with the end snipped off.

While im doing all the suspension work im going to cut the springs and drop the front about an inch maybe less just depends how it works out this should give me slightly more clearance for the 26x8x14 slicks and hopfully keep a little extra weight on the front end, not sure what else i can do to increase traction maybe reinforce the lower control arms with some steel plate ?
 

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Discussion Starter #92
Heres a couple of pictures of a set of energy suspension 1 1/4" sway bar bushings installed and a shot of my new flexpipe that maintains 3" internal diameter instead of the 2 1/2" one i had on there, also a pic of the 52 mm compared to the 58, 6 mm sure looks like a lot.
The bushings needed the grease fittings removed from the horseshoe, and a little elongation of the bolt holes plus a little piece of flat stock underneath to keep them tight but for $20 I like em.

I also went to the track on saturday, made one pass with too much fuel it sputtered and missfired all the way down the track afr was pegged full rich switched to 19 psi in 3rd gear and got a little better ran a 13.6 but picked up 28 mph on the top end at least wich is at least one good sign, on my second attempt I turned the fuel pressure way down, pulled up did my usual dry burnout, let off the gas and man the tires really hooked like never before and as i let off the gas i heard BANG oh no tried to put it in gear and nothing so rolled it back and got underneath and found thepassenger side outer cv joint broken so theres a couple pics of that too, looks to me like there wasnt enough grease in the joint, tried to show the dry discolored spot where the balls ride, oh well first time my car has ever broke down at the track so i felt i had this coming lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #93
Alright I got the energy poly bushings in the control arms and the new mopar strut mounts, the torque strut mounts were installed backwards and they were all mangled up and the strut mounts had the washers installed backwards so they were digging into the rubber at the bottom of the mount so I got the alignment at 1/32 toe in and about 1 degree negative camber, and all i can say is wow you can let go of the steering wheel and this thing will go strait down the road and the handling is much more crisp, traction seems to be way better even though the front end is sitting up a half inch higher and I havent had any wheel hop, these bushings were a great low dollar upgrade, every td should have these when you hit a bump you can tell that the wheels stay in contact with the road much better than they used to, even braking feels better.

The axle that broke had been in use by me since 2005, so it had a lot of miles on it and believe me I was not babying it one bit, went to 4 different autozones and they kept trying to give p.o.s non turbo axles and then they would argue with me that this is the right part # and I explain to there apparently def ears that ive been doing this for many years and i know the difference and the idiots still argue, finally i found the proper axle after opening 10 different boxes and spending 3 hours driving from store to store and waiting in lines, gotta love the lifetime waranty.
A good tip for anyone trying to find t2 axles is to look for the hammer marks on the back of the cv axle where it meets the stub shaft since its the only axle that would need to be hammered out lol, and if the inner cv is not round its not the right one and will fail quickly in a stick shift car.
I think im going to wait on the 58mm throttle body and cams Its obvious that the car will be alot faster the way its running now and traction should be much improved so i want to keep a bunch of ammo in the tool box as i try to creep up on 11.49
 

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Discussion Starter #94
Well went to the track today, broke the inner axle on the driver side, was still drivable but had a terrible vibration, still ran a 12.4 @ 106 with the intercooler hose popped off at the 1/8 mile and a bog off the line had to pack up and shut it down early.

im just not having any luck with these axles, im not sure what to do besides spend $800 on a set of axles
 

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im just not having any luck with these axles, im not sure what to do besides spend $800 on a set of axles
Convert to RWD.. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #96 (Edited)
Convert to RWD.. :)
That would be nice but it will probobly be another project since ive got a nice clean shelbyz shell just chilling. seeing dean still's and kclarryB,s cars are highly motivational.

Looks like my motor mount broke and the engine slid over to the drivers side as fas as it could go and damaged both axles the outer on pass side is loose and the drivers inner is loose or broken inside dont even have 4 miles on the pass side, Apparently what i thought was wheel hop was actually the engine jumping up and down violently, i think the trans mount is busted up pretty good too:bang head
 

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Sounds like you're having sime difficulties putting all that power to the ground without busting everything around the driveline. Hopefully you work all the bugs out and get it running right, but I hear your frustration. I've been trying to go fast off and on for the past 10 years ...
 

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Discussion Starter #100
Thanks unaclocker I dont know what happened i linked it just like I usually do, hit the youtube icon and put the embedded thing in between....

Im not giving up cawsiclo im going to take my lumps and keep fighting !
 
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