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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I need some help with picking out cams for my car. my car is a PT cruiser with a fully built engine. I just gonna keep this simple and say the only thing stock is the crank/rods and pistons. Those don't matter for what i'm doing to the car. The car is N/A that is no turbo so I need a cam for N/A. I had a stage 3 crower cam in my engine at one time. drove it about 100 feet and put the factory cams back in. It was so undriveable it wasn't even funny and it broke the timing belt. No i was no running a gates racing blue belt. The cams I need would have to be driveable on the street also work with factory ecu. My ecu is not tune-able either. I was thinking stage 1 crower or stage 2 brain crower. But I would like to have stage 3 brain crower just don't want to be stuck in the same place i was before. Its not a neon I can't just go ahead an slap a tune on it. Money to hp doesn't matter either. The head is fully built to take any cam. Lots of head work. From the 3 mm over size exhaust to the 2 mm over intake. 5 angle valve job and cnc ported. DCR lash adjusters with oil flow mod. Also has BC springs. Feel free to as any other questions.
 

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work with factory ecu. My ecu is not tune-able either.
The head is fully built to take any cam. Lots of head work. From the 3 mm over size exhaust to the 2 mm over intake. 5 angle valve job and cnc ported. DCR lash adjusters with oil flow mod. Also has BC springs. Feel free to as any other questions.

Your factory ecu is not going to know your cylinder head flows more air and your engine will run horrible.
 

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Ported head and cams effect the volumetric efficiency of the engine. The pre tuned computer runs on a fuel to vac curve matching a stock engine. Then comes the low Rev limit of the 2.4. Get an indy intake, header and 2.0 cams. Then get a custom tune.
 

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So I need some help with picking out cams for my car. my car is a PT cruiser with a fully built engine. I just gonna keep this simple and say the only thing stock is the crank/rods and pistons. Those don't matter for what i'm doing to the car. The car is N/A that is no turbo so I need a cam for N/A. I had a stage 3 crower cam in my engine at one time. drove it about 100 feet and put the factory cams back in. It was so undriveable it wasn't even funny and it broke the timing belt. No i was no running a gates racing blue belt. The cams I need would have to be driveable on the street also work with factory ecu. My ecu is not tune-able either. I was thinking stage 1 crower or stage 2 brain crower. But I would like to have stage 3 brain crower just don't want to be stuck in the same place i was before. Its not a neon I can't just go ahead an slap a tune on it. Money to hp doesn't matter either. The head is fully built to take any cam. Lots of head work. From the 3 mm over size exhaust to the 2 mm over intake. 5 angle valve job and cnc ported. DCR lash adjusters with oil flow mod. Also has BC springs. Feel free to as any other questions.
Did you degree the stage 3's in, or just install and hope for the best?

When it comes to cams, there is no other way to go. If you're not going to take the time to have them degree in, then no reason to waist time thinking about cam swap because you will never know if they could or couldn't work right.

Having said that, with adjustable gears, you could advance/ retard until you find the power spot you're looking for. Could be a lot more monkeying around though.


You could start with the stock cams, degreed to spec and then 2deg advance on intake and 2 deg retard on exhaust to see the difference a bigger cam will make.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Did you degree the stage 3's in, or just install and hope for the best?

I used the dowel holes to align the cams. Did not degree. So I pretty much just mach up all the marks as you would with a factory cam. But would that affect the drivaeblity at the low end. Also forgot to say I have adjustable cam gears
 

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Your factory ecu is not going to know your cylinder head flows more air and your engine will run horrible.
I don't really have another choice unless I went with a piggy back system. because the transmission needs the ecu. I do have a a404 built for about 800hp i would say. Then I would need to have the piggy back system to get rid of the rev limiter because it won't see the transmission. The ecu was gonna be the next thing on my list to do. Also I have run this cylinder head no problem just my car didn't like the stage 3 cams. So I'm trying to figure out whats the biggest cam I can go with on factory ecu without a tune. The neon 2.0 cams don't sound like a bad idea though.
 

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Did you degree the stage 3's in, or just install and hope for the best?

I used the dowel holes to align the cams. Did not degree. So I pretty much just mach up all the marks as you would with a factory cam. But would that affect the drivaeblity at the low end. Also forgot to say I have adjustable cam gears
Did you try advancing the intake cam while they were in there?

Stage 3 cams are a significant jump on a street driver, and yes, not having them dialed into their optimum operating parameters could make a huge difference. Just depends how far out they actually were.
 

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No did not try and advancing them only because my timing belt broke. I think I'm gonna go with BC stage 2 with my new motor. unrelated to this but my last motor blew up the oil pump so I'm in the process of building a new one and this was the last part I needed more info on. I appreciate your help.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Did you try advancing the intake cam while they were in there?

No I did not. But I'm thinking about BC stage 2 what do you think my idle rpm should be. Or do you think I can run BC stage 3 no problem or do you think I could run my crower stage 3 no problem with advancing the intake cam if so what should my idle rpm be. I have no problem building an engine but getting it to work is a different story sorry for asking so many questions.
 

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Your factory ecu is not going to know your cylinder head flows more air and your engine will run horrible.
I don't really have another choice unless I went with a piggy back system. because the transmission needs the ecu. I do have a a404 built for about 800hp i would say. Then I would need to have the piggy back system to get rid of the rev limiter because it won't see the transmission. The ecu was gonna be the next thing on my list to do. Also I have run this cylinder head no problem just my car didn't like the stage 3 cams. So I'm trying to figure out whats the biggest cam I can go with on factory ecu without a tune. The neon 2.0 cams don't sound like a bad idea though.
So I would assume you mean A604 which is a 41TE at that age. But the big question is who is building 800 HP A604s? Only reason is my GT melts them pretty easy.
 

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BTW a Diablo will tune within reason the ECU. You chose the mod factory choice. It is how you adjust the MP stage computers like a stage 3. Just no transfer adjustments. Megasquirt was working on a transfer controller for it years back. Not sure if that went through
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So I would assume you mean A604 which is a 41TE at that age. But the big question is who is building 800 HP A604s? Only reason is my GT melts them pretty easy.
A little old but I wanted to restate its a built a470/a670 or 31th from a 97 dodge neon. I built it and to my understanding the 800hp limit is the input shaft. Manual valve body that's why it would make the ecu freak out.
 
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