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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys!

I'm in debt to anyone who can provide me help here! I'm a bit frustrated on the lack of information when it comes to where to drill and tap the feeds/returns for a hybrid setup, plugs in the block, etc. There are alot of websites that are either incomplete, have horrible pictures, or no longer exist. Yes I checked all of this site and it's links, none of the writups or such give me confidence (I'm a visual person)

What I'm looking for is a a pictorial reference that can SHOW me where to drill/tap/plug etc. in the block and head, from someone that is still alive in the universe and did not do this back in 2001 or something.

I setup and test engines on dyno's for a living, so I'm confident in figuring it out myself eventually, but that usually involves screw-ups to learn, and I don't have the money to learn the hard way :thumb:

Thanks to anyone who can lend me a hand!:hail::hail::hail::hail::hail:

When I'm complete with mine, I'm going to make the most insane and detailed writeup you will ever see :thumb:

Eric,





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Here are some pictures of my block and head. I have the drain going to the back of the block under the turbo.



Oil drains are plugged in the head


New oil drains




Hopefully this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
This is EXCELENT sir! Thank you very much for the pictures. I apologize for not specifying my setup in my rant of a post, haha. I’m doing an 2.0 Avenger head (420a) on a 2.5CB with “long tube” header for a front mount turbo in the front of my van (not a street car setup)

Because the turbo is going to be in the front, I was thinking of using the old oil drain for the turbo as the head drain. As far as oil goes, do I need to have any restrictors going to the head? I know other motors have issues with too much oil going to the head and not enough staying in the pan (Ford 4.6 DOHC)

Also, some people seem to plug holes in the block as well, did you accomplish the same task by plugging the holes in the head? Did you need to just plug the oil holes, not the coolant passages? I apologize for my ignorance; I laugh that I can build headers and such but this stuff scares me to death!
 

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you have to plug both, the ones in the block (which you can see faint circles on my block for the ones I blocked) are to help with sealing for the head gasket. The ones in the head are to prevent the head from having oil just set in the head. But you plug the 3 oil drain holes and the oil feed holes in the head and block, then the vent hole in the block. But I have heard mixed reviews on sealing the coolant passages that are cross drilled in between the cylinders. I am probably going to fill mine in, but that is just me. I have a 2.2l cb that doesn't even have those holes drilled. I am looking at making that a Hybrid block as well.

BTW, people wondering, I am looking at using a T3 crank shaft timing belt cog instead of the old 2.2/2.5 CB cog.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You have both a feed and drain for oil, so do you need to block and run external lines for both?

As far as crankcase pressure, how do you vent it, if the vent holes to the head (which subsequently lead up and out the valve cover) are blocked? Seems like major ring sealing issues/blow-by would result...

Ok, well it's good then I waited to have my block deck milled for flatness. What did you use to fill the holes in the block and head? Epoxy or else? I was thinking of tapping the holes in the block and running in low profile, allen head pipe plugs, maybe the same for the cyl. head. Or use epoxy, because I don't want to weld on the finished head.

I will probably fill in the CB cross drilled coolant holes in my block. Hopefully result in a better sealing surface; less chance of a head gasket failure.

Thanks once again!
Eric



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Keep this thread moving :D, I'm soon to start my 16v omni. From what I've heard, u want to use steel threaded allen plugs from the block. Drill/tap block to accept the majority of the plug then grind the rest off nearly to the deck. The machine shop will finish it. The crossdrill holes can be filled with pieces of appropriately sized drill bits (back portion of the bit). I [email protected] read this but I can't remember who to give the credit to. The head can be plugged with alluminum plugs, and the top side where oil would drain accross the back side of alum plugs can be JB weld filled so they r smooth and no stagnated oil pools. Hope this helps.
 

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I got a set of silver and demming drill bits and a large pipe tap set from harbor freight tools tapped the holes put in allen plugs with high temp thread sealant and set them just below the surface of the deck then jb welded over the top of them and use a hand file to get it leveled out, the plugs in the head just tapped and plugged and sealed.

I used cast iron plugs in the block and aluminum plugs in the head, and yes fill in the cross drill holes because they will cause a leak, had to take mine back apart and do it because my coolant sytem was overpressurizing, found a drill bit in my stash that was perfect for the holes and cut little pieces of it and press them in with red locktite and no more problem.
 

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Ya good to get the info all in one place. I too am curious about the required size of the drain returns (oil) to make sure that they r large enough for proper pcv function, seems like too small would mean positive crankcase pressure and not enough oil getting back to the pan.
 

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Also...what dictates the location of the oil drains that are added. Only asking because the original drains are in the back of the head while the new ones are in the front. Or am i seeing this incorrectly. Seems g forces of acceleration would keep oil pooled in the back of the head.
 

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When I'm complete with mine, I'm going to make the most insane and detailed writeup you will ever see
2 YEARS later.. Did you pull it off? Where's this writeup? :) hybrid motors are sooo much more complicated and expensive than a simple 2.4 swap.. But to each their own.
Yes, crankcase pressure is definitely a very real concern. I worked on a friend's 2.5L hybrid that was literally blowing oil out of the valve cover because it'd pump it up there and then the blowby on his brand new bottom end wouldn't let it come back down the drain tubes. Was an absolute nightmare. We ended up scrapping the thing and just swapping in a 2.4 motor instead. Epic fail, he lost a lot of money on that one.
 

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I got a set of silver and demming drill bits and a large pipe tap set from harbor freight tools tapped the holes put in allen plugs with high temp thread sealant and set them just below the surface of the deck then jb welded over the top of them and use a hand file to get it leveled out, the plugs in the head just tapped and plugged and sealed.

I used cast iron plugs in the block and aluminum plugs in the head, and yes fill in the cross drill holes because they will cause a leak, had to take mine back apart and do it because my coolant sytem was overpressurizing, found a drill bit in my stash that was perfect for the holes and cut little pieces of it and press them in with red locktite and no more problem.
Well Im pretty sure #6 tap will tap these holes then you can use some bolts cut down and slotted to fill the holes..use red loctite.
 
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